[FredM]

the bolt thread may be UNC, "united national coarse", have you got a machine shop close by, ask if they can use a pitch gauge on the threads for you, they may even be able to turn up a couple of studs that size if you needed two off, same with nuts, ask for a quote and compare with genuine price.

 

[Dmfoste1]

Thanks FredM, that's a heck of a great idea. After all they do look similar to 1" bolts.

 

[FredM]

Dmfoste1 -- if you had a dedicated bolt supply shop in your area, you could take the damaged stud in and see if it could be matched, ask for high tensile for the job on hand.

 

[Dmfoste1]

Well, I just got done reading

https://www.tractorforum.com/threads/ford-3000-engine.34931/

And the issues the cooling system plays on the cylinders and cavitation that can occur. I'm wondering if I made the correct decision with having the block bored over, or if I shouldve just gone for the sleeves. I'll have to call them up and find out where I'm at with work that has been done. (sigh) I just paid to have the standard kit and sleeves shipped back .Better to find out now, than later I suppose.

 

[Dmfoste1]

Proceeding on with rebuild.

I was able to separate the front axle from the clip. I did this with the clipcupside down. (Axle up) You have to release the rear pin first. I loosened the center axle bolt but left in in a few threads. Then placed 2x4's under each side of the axle to remove the weight.Then took a whack at the bolt to drive it rearward. Took 3 hefty whacks and popped out.
The rear pin threads to front bolt. Loosen bolt and remove. Then pulled front pin by getting another large bolt, maybe 5/8" x 10" through the front pin, grade 8. Placed a large socket that fit around outside of pin and bolt could go through. A couple of washers and nut on top of socket, then began to tighten the nut. A 1/2" ractchet/socket/extension through the rear helped to tighten. Then it got really tight.I kept turning the wrench in the outside nut. It wouldnt budge any more. I went to toolbox to get another wrench to interlock it with the 1st wrench and the pin shot out of the hole like a bullet due to the stress on it!!! Scared the $#@! out of me! These pins are HUGE!!

Proceeded to clean zerk fittings to release the old grease. Pumped some grease through to get the grease hole cleaned out of old grease. Then another grease hole appeared. So I put my finger over that hole and pumped again. Another hole appeared, then again and again... A total of 5 grease holes for the front axle.
I'm still working on getting the steering pin hole cleaned. I have tried compressed air at 135psi, filling with grease and hitting with a hammer, and now I have brake cleaned soaking in the cavity. Hopefully it'll soften up the old grease and I'll be able the blow it through tomorrow. It's the hardest hole to clean because it's not a straight shot to the other grease holes. Here's a pic of the center steering pin hole with pin removed. Screwdriver in hole for reference.

Also got the wheels off and tire dismounted. Took the rims to the sandblaster. Should get them back in a few days for painting. Any recommendations on front tires? They had 16-9 light truck tires on them with tubes.

 

[Dmfoste1]

Finally got the hole for steering pin degrimed. Turns out the 2nd zerk fitting under there is for that hole, and feeds grease to it. Hooked up the grease gun and pumped out all the old grease in the cavity.I felt alot better knowing I got it cleaned out finally.
After that I started working in tearing town the front axle. There s a bolt that goes through the axlle and spindle pin and need to be removed from the pin keyway to release it. I got that bolt out on both sides along with the tie rod fittings, but cannot figure out how to get the spindle pin out. I tried hammering, and the the 12 ton press. Dang pins in both sides are STUCK!!! Only got 1 to move 3/4". I looked them up and they don't appear to be tappered so I hope I'm on the path. Others have noted the pins just fall out, make me wonder.

 

[Dmfoste1]

I have admitted victory to the tractor today. The front spindle pins won. I can't get them to budge. Had to resort to taking it to a machine shop and ask for help.
I tried to start rebuilding the hydraulic cylinder for the front steering and found out I was sent the wrong rebuild kit. I have drip driveway oil pan under it to catch the oil, dirt and parts. New kit is on order... waiting...

BUT, on a good note the rims were completed. I picked them up from sandblaster and got a coat of paint on them with some new "shoes". I had originally painted them yellow. All I can say is YUCK!! So I then looked on the internet for ideas of paint. As you can see I chose boring ol'grey.

Guy at the tire shop said the 4 rib tire I was looking at was "stuck in Mexico" due to the tarriff war. He said it would be a while before he could get them, with no time explanation of 'a while'. So I decided on these Camso BHL530 tires. I don't know much about them other than 10 ply and was told they'd be a good fit for that heavy of a FEL/BH.
While I was at the sandblaster I dropped off another batch of parts

I used rubber expansion plugs to seal the pin bushing holes (to resist the sand). I also left the old rubber caps on with a piece of rubber hose to cover the tie rod end bolts so the sand won't get in them, capped off with the original nut. I now am tractor front end free. Guess it's time to clean the garage up a little and get ready for parts to come back to me.
I find it somewhat comical how I was intimidated when I first got this tractor, not knowing anything about it to now, where I have touched every nut/bolt on the front end.

 

[pogobill]

Great build, I'm enjoying the follow along! You are a brave lad and an inspiration to us timid souls!

 

[Dmfoste1]

Machine shop called up this morning and said the axle was ready for pick-up. I asked if they had any issues with getting them out. He chuckled and said, "not with a hundred ton press". So I was only 88 tons away from pressing them out myself. Good to know.
I took them to the sandblaster and added to the pile I had made yesterday.

The engine machine shop also called today and informed me they pressure tested it at 25psi and blew a hole in cylinder #1. Looks like I'm doing liners now.
Let's see if that makes sense. Block starts out as a 4.4" bore and is/was overbored to accommodate the .040 pistons but before I do that we have to add standard liners. So, currently the block is at 4.404", right? I'm trying to pick out sleeves again but notice many do not have spec/sizes listed. Was curious to see if there are thick walled ones.

 

[Dmfoste1]

Took a trip down to machine shop today to take a look at the blowout in the block. Here's the picture of inside cylinder. It's less than 3/16" hole at bottom of cylinder #1. Right next to flash reflection.

Shouldn't be an issue with the liners. Talking with machine shop still pressing on an will sleeve all 3 cylinders. Ordered the sleeves today, about a week to get them here and then drop off at the shop.

 

[Hoodoo Valley]

That's amazing that you can still see the cross hatch pattern.

 

[Dmfoste1]

Great build, I'm enjoying the follow along! You are a brave lad and an inspiration to us timid souls!

Thanks pogobill!!

 

[Dmfoste1]

While waiting for parts to come back decided to rebuild the front hydraulic steering cylinder. All pretty straight forward. I had a little issue with getting the valve rebuild. Holding the spring down while putting on the O-ring, plastic Oring, metal Oring, end plate. So I made a tool to hold the spring from a metal coat hanger.... Ah remember METAL coat hangers?... SIGH. Damn even coat hangers went cheap! Anyway, here's a pic. Fairly simple and straight forward. Bent the tabs at 2 different lenghths to catch the spring and compressed the spring then rotated the coat hanger into position when i had it compressed.

When the last piece screwed on and it was secure, I bent the tabs out.
Other than that, I've been cleaning and power washing the rear portion. Used a chain and engine hoist to wheel it out of the garage. Lots of scrubbing and thick, caked on grease/dirt. Here's a beginning pic. I hope to not have a case of the POX!!

 

[Dmfoste1]

Lots of cleaning and power washing... and found a few wire wheels in a drill do some amazing work to cut the thick grime, then rinse and repeat.... I was even able to get the belly cleaned.

There are a few spots I couldn't get to, but most of it came off. I then primed it before paint.

Then added a few coats of paint.

Since all this was going well, (and feeling motivated) I decided to paint the rear rims. Just wire wheel the loose stuff and rust, taping, primer, and paint... nothing fancy til I have to buy tires. The tire shop wanted $50/rim to bust them loose!!! Not today guys.

It started looking so good I went out and got a new seat. I've got to figure out how I'm going to mount the toolbox back on the back of the seat.

I should be getting some front end parts back from sandblasting at the beginning of the week for reassembly.

 

[Hoodoo Valley]

Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaang.......... Starting to look really sharp there!

 

[FredM]

another great looking blue tractor coming on scene, be good to see the finished restore.

 

[dozer966]

We have a toolbox mounted to the right fender on a bracket

 

[Dmfoste1]

Thanks for the compliments guys.

I've seen them mounted on fenders too while looking at pics on internet. Thanks for the suggestion. Any thoughts why they were not in a standard location?

 

[Dmfoste1]

I got all the pieces back from the sandblaster. Time to start priming, painting and reassembly.

 

[Dmfoste1]

Well I got the pieces primered and painted and began reassembly. I pressed the steering bushings back in to find out they are not the correct height (part). Original PN c5nn3179a was inch in height where the new reproduction bushing is about 1 1/4" in height, PN c5nn3179b. It doesn't leave enough room to slide the steering arm in.
The bushing sits out of the hole pressed all the way to the bottom. I'm going to try the local Ag stores, hopefully they carry them in stock so I can continue the front end build before the block and head are ready to pick up this week. Otherwise, it's a week waiting for them to show up.
And all this time I thought Ford super-seeded there rev's buy changing the last letter... This is a different part with the last digit "a" changed to "b".