Got the 4500 split today and pulled the engine.

as soon as it was split I found TDC by looking at the timing gear ahead of the injectors pump. Thanks again thepumpguysc. Marked it with at piece of tape and marker so others could reference if if needed.

Tiny little dimple that was covered by old oil. The flywheel came off easy, bolts were not very tight. The flywheel itself without pressure plate/clutch must have weighed about 100lbs!! Once I started separating the block from trans water started dripping from it on one sideside found a cavity that had rust build up in it, similar to the Tstat housing I showed a picture of.

I have no idea why it had water there. Any thoughts?
I then needed an engine stand for the engine, found one via Craigslist and got it home to find out the top mounting holes were too small for the threaded bolts that go into the engine. I can't drill them out because there wouldn't be enough meat left on the supporting arms. So I am thinking of mounting it like this.

Then putting another 1/4" or 5/16" plate from the upper arms to the top bolt holes. I can make the plate fairly easily. I think that would help when flipping the engine upside-down to pull crank, pistons, etc. Does anyone know the weight of a short block?

 

Forgot to mention. I found the shims I read about on the lowest bolts (engine oil pan to front end) when separating the two. Thankfully I was working in clean concrete and not in the yard. I might have missed them when they dropped out. (Shims are sitting on front end next to hole with a quarter for size reference, bottom right hole.)

 

Had a brilliant idea last night before bed. Grabbed some 3/4x1 1/2 stock and made my own arms to support engine on the stand. They accept the 3/4" bolt to go to the back of the head. Went with 1 1/4" longer than stock size.

I got the engine bolted on stand and started to disassemble, couple of the main caps are not wanting to come out, but I did get the pistons/rods out. Check out the far right piston rings.

 

Next I took off the timing cover. The dimples on the gears didn't match up and thought simewhaere in it's life it skipped a tooth. I proceeded to cycle it through and all 3 dimples lined up. It takes 47 revolutions of the cam to get it to line up again. Coincidentally, there are 47 teeth on center gear. I marked with a paint pen so I could share with others. IP on gear is injector pump.

 

I got the news from machine shop today. the block needs to be bored .040 over and crank is standard on rods and main.

 

That's GOOD AND BAD news.. I think the cost of a new/different crank, outweighs the cost of a "bored over" cylinder.. I think u got out pretty good..
Care to share the cost breakdown.??
Are u having the machine shop build it back up.??
"Sometimes" its a lot cheaper in the long run because it would come w/ a warranty..

 

I'm not ready to share the cost just yet, still waiting for a grand total... Hoping it's not too GRAND. Looking at prices online for rebuilt ones was a real eye-opener. I don't know why others would pay that sort of money to buy one rebuilt when parts are relatively inexpensive... If you have the know-how. When I get done I know the engine should last for another 40-50 years providing it's taken care of. Throughout this teardown I'm beginning to believe that this tractor took a swimming lesson somewhere in it's lifetime due to the amount of water I have found where it shouldn't be.... And the piston and rings that were demolished could maybe explain a hydrolocked cylinder (speculation). Looking at the pics and description of what I have found, what do you guys think?

 

don't forget the oil pump, pull it apart and take measurements to satisfy yourself that the pump will do the job, I can remember a time when one of my mates who was a mechanic and with his father run an overnight transport business, my mate rebuilt a Bedford diesel engine back in the 70's and he did everything except the oil pump, the truck traveled a couple hundred miles on a trip north and blew the engine, father wasn't happy, just a thought for you.

 

Been there, done that! If I was going though this much of a rebuild, I'd put in new oil pump hands down.

 

A new oil pump is on the list, I don't want to go backwards once I get her back together. Thanks for the insight.

Currently working on the front clip. I cleaned out the sand, dirt and oil from the front clip yesterday. It was 2-3" packed in there like concrete. Most of it was in the nose of the front clip.

I used the pressure washer and a 3' flatbar with the chissel end to break it up as I power washed the inside of the clip. Lots of old oily dirt came out. I'm attempting to get the power cylinder out to rebuild it as well. Although I'm having a problem with the bolt on front corner. It appears it comes out the bottom, but doesn't want to budge.

I found a video of the bolt, on you tube, about the 5 minute mark. HeHonly shows it for a second or 2. In his comments says it drops from the bottom.

I'm using a cresent with a 10' cheater bar and it won't budge. Tried with an 11/16" wrench but the wasn't enough metal on the open end to bit into to bolt and started spreading open.

Any suggestions?

 

Looks like I'm at a stopping point till tomorrow.. Thought the bolt was popping loose when I heard the cracking noise. Then I looked at the Cresent wrench.

 

Both sides.

That's one stubborn bolt!!

 

Woo hoo!!! I found a parts diagram at

https://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr49534ag22054

Doesn't look like there is a cotter pin or anything else keeping it in there. I have it soaking in vinegar and water right now, hopefully it'll eat the rust and be easier to break loose. I tossed a few nuts and bolts in there as well to clean them up. Will see tommorrow when i try again.

 

Finally got that stuborn bolt out. I tried to double nut it, the threads must be proprietary, a 1" fine thread wouldnt fit.
I then tried to drill the flat side to run a cotter pin through and the "bolt" laughed at me. New drill bits wouldn't even touch it. Since I began working on this bolt I broke the biggest 2 Cresent wrenches I have and streched my 11/16" wrench, I went to the biggest wrench I own... A 36" pipe wrench with the 10' cheater. It turned 1/4 of a thread. At least at this point I knew it would turn. Problem was with the 10' cheater on it the tire was in the way and couldn't get a bite on the flat sides. The pipe wrench ripped most of the threads from the bolt when I reset it. I then had a not so brilliant idea of welding the nut and using a socket.

It got it out, but with a hefty price... That bolt is $150!!! I don't know what other option I had, spent most of the day pulling that 1 bolt out. And yes, the bolt does come out the bottom.
I then went for the center pivot pin to replace the bushings. It pulled out in the same manner of pulling a p/s pulley with a 3/8" fine thread bolt in the center of the pin. The top bushing for the pin was easy to get out, just tapped it through. I haven't figured out how to get the bottom bushing pulled out since it doesn't go all the way through.

And yes, more mud as lubricant. Those rings at the top and bottom of the center pin are supposed to be for grease. I can't even see the hole for the zerk in the bottom of the hole, due to mud packed in there.

 

the bolt thread may be UNC, "united national coarse", have you got a machine shop close by, ask if they can use a pitch gauge on the threads for you, they may even be able to turn up a couple of studs that size if you needed two off, same with nuts, ask for a quote and compare with genuine price.

 

Thanks FredM, that's a heck of a great idea. After all they do look similar to 1" bolts.

 

Dmfoste1 -- if you had a dedicated bolt supply shop in your area, you could take the damaged stud in and see if it could be matched, ask for high tensile for the job on hand.

 

Well, I just got done reading

https://www.tractorforum.com/threads/ford-3000-engine.34931/

And the issues the cooling system plays on the cylinders and cavitation that can occur. I'm wondering if I made the correct decision with having the block bored over, or if I shouldve just gone for the sleeves. I'll have to call them up and find out where I'm at with work that has been done. (sigh) I just paid to have the standard kit and sleeves shipped back .Better to find out now, than later I suppose.

 

Proceeding on with rebuild.

I was able to separate the front axle from the clip. I did this with the clipcupside down. (Axle up) You have to release the rear pin first. I loosened the center axle bolt but left in in a few threads. Then placed 2x4's under each side of the axle to remove the weight.Then took a whack at the bolt to drive it rearward. Took 3 hefty whacks and popped out.
The rear pin threads to front bolt. Loosen bolt and remove. Then pulled front pin by getting another large bolt, maybe 5/8" x 10" through the front pin, grade 8. Placed a large socket that fit around outside of pin and bolt could go through. A couple of washers and nut on top of socket, then began to tighten the nut. A 1/2" ractchet/socket/extension through the rear helped to tighten. Then it got really tight.I kept turning the wrench in the outside nut. It wouldnt budge any more. I went to toolbox to get another wrench to interlock it with the 1st wrench and the pin shot out of the hole like a bullet due to the stress on it!!! Scared the $#@! out of me! These pins are HUGE!!

Proceeded to clean zerk fittings to release the old grease. Pumped some grease through to get the grease hole cleaned out of old grease. Then another grease hole appeared. So I put my finger over that hole and pumped again. Another hole appeared, then again and again... A total of 5 grease holes for the front axle.
I'm still working on getting the steering pin hole cleaned. I have tried compressed air at 135psi, filling with grease and hitting with a hammer, and now I have brake cleaned soaking in the cavity. Hopefully it'll soften up the old grease and I'll be able the blow it through tomorrow. It's the hardest hole to clean because it's not a straight shot to the other grease holes. Here's a pic of the center steering pin hole with pin removed. Screwdriver in hole for reference.

Also got the wheels off and tire dismounted. Took the rims to the sandblaster. Should get them back in a few days for painting. Any recommendations on front tires? They had 16-9 light truck tires on them with tubes.

 

Finally got the hole for steering pin degrimed. Turns out the 2nd zerk fitting under there is for that hole, and feeds grease to it. Hooked up the grease gun and pumped out all the old grease in the cavity.I felt alot better knowing I got it cleaned out finally.
After that I started working in tearing town the front axle. There s a bolt that goes through the axlle and spindle pin and need to be removed from the pin keyway to release it. I got that bolt out on both sides along with the tie rod fittings, but cannot figure out how to get the spindle pin out. I tried hammering, and the the 12 ton press. Dang pins in both sides are STUCK!!! Only got 1 to move 3/4". I looked them up and they don't appear to be tappered so I hope I'm on the path. Others have noted the pins just fall out, make me wonder.

 

I have admitted victory to the tractor today. The front spindle pins won. I can't get them to budge. Had to resort to taking it to a machine shop and ask for help.
I tried to start rebuilding the hydraulic cylinder for the front steering and found out I was sent the wrong rebuild kit. I have drip driveway oil pan under it to catch the oil, dirt and parts. New kit is on order... waiting...

BUT, on a good note the rims were completed. I picked them up from sandblaster and got a coat of paint on them with some new "shoes". I had originally painted them yellow. All I can say is YUCK!! So I then looked on the internet for ideas of paint. As you can see I chose boring ol'grey.

Guy at the tire shop said the 4 rib tire I was looking at was "stuck in Mexico" due to the tarriff war. He said it would be a while before he could get them, with no time explanation of 'a while'. So I decided on these Camso BHL530 tires. I don't know much about them other than 10 ply and was told they'd be a good fit for that heavy of a FEL/BH.
While I was at the sandblaster I dropped off another batch of parts

I used rubber expansion plugs to seal the pin bushing holes (to resist the sand). I also left the old rubber caps on with a piece of rubber hose to cover the tie rod end bolts so the sand won't get in them, capped off with the original nut. I now am tractor front end free. Guess it's time to clean the garage up a little and get ready for parts to come back to me.
I find it somewhat comical how I was intimidated when I first got this tractor, not knowing anything about it to now, where I have touched every nut/bolt on the front end.

 

Great build, I'm enjoying the follow along! You are a brave lad and an inspiration to us timid souls!

 

Thanks pogobill!!

 

Machine shop called up this morning and said the axle was ready for pick-up. I asked if they had any issues with getting them out. He chuckled and said, "not with a hundred ton press". So I was only 88 tons away from pressing them out myself. Good to know.
I took them to the sandblaster and added to the pile I had made yesterday.

The engine machine shop also called today and informed me they pressure tested it at 25psi and blew a hole in cylinder #1. Looks like I'm doing liners now.
Let's see if that makes sense. Block starts out as a 4.4" bore and is/was overbored to accommodate the .040 pistons but before I do that we have to add standard liners. So, currently the block is at 4.404", right? I'm trying to pick out sleeves again but notice many do not have spec/sizes listed. Was curious to see if there are thick walled ones.

 

Took a trip down to machine shop today to take a look at the blowout in the block. Here's the picture of inside cylinder. It's less than 3/16" hole at bottom of cylinder #1. Right next to flash reflection.

Shouldn't be an issue with the liners. Talking with machine shop still pressing on an will sleeve all 3 cylinders. Ordered the sleeves today, about a week to get them here and then drop off at the shop.

 

That's amazing that you can still see the cross hatch pattern.

 

While waiting for parts to come back decided to rebuild the front hydraulic steering cylinder. All pretty straight forward. I had a little issue with getting the valve rebuild. Holding the spring down while putting on the O-ring, plastic Oring, metal Oring, end plate. So I made a tool to hold the spring from a metal coat hanger.... Ah remember METAL coat hangers?... SIGH. Damn even coat hangers went cheap! Anyway, here's a pic. Fairly simple and straight forward. Bent the tabs at 2 different lenghths to catch the spring and compressed the spring then rotated the coat hanger into position when i had it compressed.

When the last piece screwed on and it was secure, I bent the tabs out.
Other than that, I've been cleaning and power washing the rear portion. Used a chain and engine hoist to wheel it out of the garage. Lots of scrubbing and thick, caked on grease/dirt. Here's a beginning pic. I hope to not have a case of the POX!!