Welcome to this forum. Which 4010 rowcrop or compact utility? Hyd oil has additives to help extend brake lining or clutch linings depending on model type life, Engine oil doesn't contain these special additives. One should use hyd oil that meets spec's of J20C

 

I can see you have no clue,,, your probably a millennial,, I'm asking if the motor oil will damage the o rings, or any rubber or seals in the transmission or hydraulic system.
I'm from the old school, I've used kerosene and oil engine oil as diesel fuel before,, I'm asking about the motor oil to be used in the transmission as a short term use until the tractor can be broken in half and all seal replaced,

 

Wow, what a comeback

 

Seems to me that this post has been responded to by some of this forums most helpful and knowledgeable members. Some great information presented for the original query that did not mention that the use was temporary, nor did it mention which 4010 tractor it was.
Regardless, once the incorrect oil is in the system, it will be there for a long time in the hoses and cylinders after a switching back to the proper oil.

 

Seems to me that this post has been responded to by some of this forums most helpful and knowledgeable members. Some great information presented for the original query that did not mention that the use was temporary, nor did it mention which 4010 tractor it was.
Regardless, once the incorrect oil is in the system, it will be there for a long time in the hoses and cylinders after a switching back to the proper oil.

Perhaps it would have been a little easier to accept his reaction to TX Jim if he had asked the same style of question, with an "Old School" dose of reality, but had it attached to entirely different repair scenario? You often see these type of questions with first time posters on here

"I'm a cheap ass with a tractor that says something about JD4010 on the side. I've got a radiator that leaks like I sieve, but I'm eventually gonna get around to fixin' it. Is it OK to run straight water in it rather than that expensive 50/50 anti-freeze mix? I already know the answer, but I'm just fishin' around for another answer that already agrees with my cheap nature, and gives me someone else to blame if the 💩 hits the fan and destroys my machine".

 

A little different application but food for thought
My ariens garden tractors call for motor oil as hydraulic fluid. So "maybe"

Add in that when buying a new hydraulic component most times instructions say "use manufacturer recommended fluid". Meaning that a given part (pump, valve block, etc) may fit more than one machine, and would happy with any number of different fluids
That said wouldn't mix them. Whatever you use flush the system and use all the same stuff

 

From an engineering perspective on modern systems - engine oil is much more expensive than hydraulic oil but has its place. Caterpillar recommends 15W-40 engine oil use in hydraulic systems used in high temperature applications - but its 15W-40 engine oil was more than double the cost of Cat hydraulic oil ( which exceeds the specs of the typical low cost hydraulic oil found in ag supply stores). The myth of engine oil foaming is ancient. Can you imagine what foam will do in a modern high speed engine? But hydraulic oils do not need to handle the proucts of combustion engine oils must handle but if of the proper viscosity for your hydraulic system at its normal operating temperature, not a problem.

 

Wet brakes and clutchs have much to do with the hydraulic specs.

 

You’re from the old school? did you flunk 6th grade civics?

 

I can see you have no clue,,, your probably a millennial,,

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I can see you have no clue,,, your probably a millennial,,

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I can see you have no clue,,, your probably a millennial,,

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Don't worry about it Bud.... It's pretty simple for old farts like us, we just put the lubricant in the machine that the OEM tells us to use, where they tell us to use it.

However, I have started using JD "corn head grease" (AN102562) in trans axles where the OEM calls for bentonite grease..... It's just to cool not to use, starts out as grease, when it heats up turns into almost a liquid, when it cools back solidifies back into grease.

It works like a champ on my 1948 Willys with the Dana 25 front axle "closed" steering knuckles and doesn't leak a drop like the 140wt gear oil Dana calls for does around that delicate felt seal/backing ring (Part #14). Damn near everything you see running 140wt in Dana "closed knuckles" has a leak. Let it go long enough, the u-joints on the axle shafts will fail, and you get to do that PITA job. The one shown below has leaked all of the 140wt out, that's why it's nice and shiny, and it's just a matter of time until the axle u-joint fails

 

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Don't worry about it Bud.... It's pretty simple for old farts like us, we just put the lubricant in the machine that the OEM tells us to use, where they tell us to use it.

However, I have started using JD "corn head grease" (AN102562) in trans axles where the OEM calls for bentonite grease..... It's just to cool not to use, starts out as grease, when it heats up turns into almost a liquid, when it cools back solidifies back into grease.

It works like a champ on my 1948 Willys with the Dana 25 front axle "closed" steering knuckles and doesn't leak a drop like the 140wt gear oil Dana calls for does around that delicate felt seal/backing ring (Part #14). Damn near everything you see running 140wt in Dana "closed knuckles" has a leak. Let it go long enough, the u-joints on the axle shafts will fail, and you get to do that PITA job. The one shown below has leaked all of the 140wt out, that's why it's nice and shiny, and it's just a matter of time until the axle u-joint fails


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Great info about the corn head grease! (and an interesting discussion).
Steve

 

I also have successfully substituted JD Corn Head grease in rotary & disc cutter gearboxes for 85W/90 oil

 

It's has been quite common when a gearbox has just started to weep from the seals to add grease in with the gearlube to keep a gearbox working till a harvest season is completed and there is time to tear it down and repair it properly.. And if it's a seldom used piece it may be used a few years just topping off with a mix of grease and gear lube.