[Tater50]

There are NO Orings in the injector.. those are shims..
DO NOT lose the shims.!!
Soaking the nozzle/tips separated from the injector body, is the only way to clean them..
Soaking them whole, in a pan, does nothing..
U NEED a torque wrench to tighten the "nozzle nut" to 50-55 ftlbs..

Thanks: Now to find a puller; do you know the size that I need to attach to the injector? Need to rent one; but did a search & could not find the mm size!!

 

[thepumpguysc]

Good God Man.. go back & LOOK at post #2.

 

[Tater50]

Good God Man.. go back & LOOK at post #2.

In the post it says: "There are 2 diff. thread sizes on injectors.. a 12mm & 14mm". I did not want to buy a 12mm & it be a 14mm. I do not know if they come in an assorted kit!! No need to get upset about a legitimate question. I have basic mechanical knowledge but do not work on tractors on a daily basis.

 

[pogobill]

I don't think anyone is upset Tater50. A few folks are trying to get you through your issue, and seeing as there is getting to be quite a few posts in this thread, it may be a getting a bit tough to recall all the info. A quick review may be in order to fit all the information together.
A few pictures may help identify what you are doing and what you may need to get you going again.

 

[marc_hanna]

There are injector pullers on Amazon that have an assortment of adapters for each size and type of injector. I put a little acetone and penetrating oil around the injectors and get the engine good and warmed up before I try to pull them. Depending on the style of injector, smear some high temp ceramic grease on the outer surface that mates with the injector bore before reinstalling. This will make it much easier to get out in the future.

 

[Tater50]

Thanks to ALL: looks like a kit w/assorted connectors will be the way to go; since I may need them for another tractor down the road.

 

[deerhide]

Thanks: Now to find a puller; do you know the size that I need to attach to the injector? Need to rent one; but did a search & could not find the mm size!!

I have popped an injector out by undoing the hold-down bolts and the fuel line then turned the key. I don't know if this way would work for you though.

 

[marc_hanna]

Here’s a diagram I found. It looks like you have to copper seals and fibre washer that will need to be replaced. You may need to recut the seat as well.

 

[marc_hanna]

I have popped an injector out by undoing the hold-down bolts and the fuel line then turned the key. I don't know if this way would work for you though.

I’ve heard of people doing that also, but never tried it myself. I know of a guy that regularly does that on Sprinter vans, which have a long pencil style piezoelectric injector, so I imagine it would work all that much better on a stubby one.

 

[thepumpguysc]

A regular injector puller will not work on that type of injector..
See where the "inlet" is.. "sideways"..
Hoye tractor sells & rents a puller just for that injector.. They are the only ones that make it as far as I know & its "priority" to Hoye..??
When I worked on them, the only thing needed was to replace the fiber washer directly under each injector..I think it cost 1.00.. & I replaced 1 injector..
They rent that tool for cheap for 10 days.. & the shipping was 25.00.. its BIG & HEAVY.
I opted to buy the tool tho.. I figured it wouldn't be my only 1..
I would offer to loan u the tool but I have no idea how I would ship it.. as I burned the box it came in..

 

[marc_hanna]

A regular injector puller will not work on that type of injector..
See where the "inlet" is.. "sideways"..
Hoye tractor sells & rents a puller just for that injector.. They are the only ones that make it as far as I know & its "priority" to Hoye..??
When I worked on them, the only thing needed was to replace the fiber washer directly under each injector..I think it cost 1.00.. & I replaced 1 injector..
They rent that tool for cheap for 10 days.. & the shipping was 25.00.. its BIG & HEAVY.
I opted to buy the tool tho.. I figured it wouldn't be my only 1..
I would offer to loan u the tool but I have no idea how I would ship it.. as I burned the box it came in..

Can you put an open end wrench on these injectors and leverage them out?

 

[thepumpguysc]

U have to remove the hold down studs using the "double nut" method..
THEN u can get an adjustable wrench on it.. BUT BE WARNED.. the opening for the line, where it hooks to the injector.. is VERY SOFT metal.!! do be careful WHERE the jaws land.. IF u try to turn it & the wrench jaws are in the opening.. U WILL crush it.. & theres no opening it back up.. I found out the hard way, many years ago..
What I did was, remove the injector line from the PUMP & screw it back into the INJECTOR.. {flip the pump end out of your way..}
THAT WAY, the opening is supported & it CANT crush..
Good luck..
U may not even need all this information.?? Have u even TRIED to remove them.??
Another trick is to loosen the hold down nuts till they're almost off.. & spin/crank the
engine.. They might just "pop" out..

 

[thepumpguysc]

Once they're out.. contact me & I'll tell u how to replace JUST the nozzle for 30 some bucks instead of paying 88-90 some dollars for an injector..

 

[bmaverick]

H

Thanks: Now to find a puller; do you know the size that I need to attach to the injector? Need to rent one; but did a search & could not find the mm size!!

Hey, got my Harbor Freight email this morning. AND guess what they have?

Fuel And Transmission Line Disconnect Tool Set, 7 Pc.
https://www.harborfreight.com/merch...g-promotions/new/fuel-and-transmission-line-disconnect-tool-set-7-pc-64813.html

Get the 20% off coupon and see if these can get those injectors off.

 

[thepumpguysc]

On a regular, 95% of all injectors..{in the U.S.} the inlet it "straight up".. & u can screw an adaptor onto it, after u remove the line of course.. & screw your slide hammer onto the adaptor & "pound it" UP..
IF the injector is like that in the diagram above.??
A "regular" slide hammer & adaptors, WILL NOT work.. because of the position & configuration of the inlet.. its "side ways" instead of straight up..
WITH "female" threads.. instead of male..

IF the injector is stuck.?? We still don't know that YET..
When u go to "wiggle it".. the injector will come apart.. leaving the NOZZLE NUT along w/ the nozzle STUCK IN THE HEAD.. & all u removed was the "body" of the injector..
The way the Hoye injector remover works is>> their adaptor has the same threads as the body of the injector..
SO all u have to do is.. screw it into the NOZ. NUT that's stuck in the head & "pound it" UP..
I hope that clears up any questions..

 

[thepumpguysc]

I forgot to mention 1 VERY CRITICAL instruction.!!!
When u go to wiggle it loose w/ your wrench..
TURN the wrench CLOCKWISE & see if the inj. turns.. if it does, GREAT, your home free..
If it doesn't budge.. DO NOT TURN IT COUNTER CLOCKWISE..
Just keep spraying it down w/ penetrating oil for a day or 2 or 3.. & hope it comes out turning it CLOCKWISE..
Because once u turn it COUNTER.. & put some force behind it.. u stand a very good chance in unscrewing the body from the nut.. & THEN your sunk.. u HAVE TO get the puller..

 

[Tater50]

Thanks to all; this is not a 911; I am recovering from a major surgery & ASAP will tackle the job & give updates. Here is a pic of injector; from what I see on the Yanmar Tech Manual that Mr. Tommy of Yanmar sent to me today, this is the "hole type"; not "pintle!! I "NEVER" figured that Yanmar would send me info on something 21 yrs old. So awesome to all whom have replied & Yanmar. I will send pics of the way that I disassembled; etc!!

 

[thepumpguysc]

A REGULAR slide hammer inj. puller will remove it..
To figure out if its a 12 or 14mm thread.. remove the line & with an open end wrench, use it to put around the threaded part.. if the 12mm fits snug around the threads, then that's it..
Now try it w/ the 14mm.. is it real sloppy.. then that's NOT IT..

 

[Tater50]

A REGULAR slide hammer inj. puller will remove it..
To figure out if its a 12 or 14mm thread.. remove the line & with an open end wrench, use it to put around the threaded part.. if the 12mm fits snug around the threads, then that's it..
Now try it w/ the 14mm.. is it real sloppy.. then that's NOT IT..

It is a 12mm but not 1.25, 1.5 or 1.75 pitch thread; none screw down more than a 1/8". The only thing that fits (but a little loose till I go all the way down) is a 3/8ths( I think; do not believe it is 1/2") brass coupling. My research has stated that Japan uses British Standard Pipe (could be wrong); which I am searching further. I am on a fixed income & this is not a 911; so I am having to see if I can fabricate a cheap slide hammer. I do plan to use ALL above info in reference to operating till warm; then loosening the retainer nuts; then operating to see if it will push it out!! But I still need to make one for future use; since I purchased 2 of these 955's. Thanks for the input.

 

[Tater50]

UPDATE: SEE PICS!!! I finally got to the Injector. Flare nut that attaches to injector can be removed w/a 11/16th wrench. I had tried 12mm nut x 1.25; 1.5 & 1.75 to make a slide hammer; & NO fit. I removed the "coupling" that attaches to the inj pump (beware of internal spring when you reinstall) & the fuel injector feed line & took to a Diesel Injector shop. (While line was removed; I cleaned it) They fitted it & sold me the flare FM fitting(he did not know the size of the nut). The tech said the "best" item better than WD40, etc. was a product used by aviation called "Mouse Milk"; but Blaster would work OK!! I took FM fitting & tapped a 5/16 x 18 thread into it (it has about a 3/8" area) attached a threaded rod w/lockdown nut w/a fender washer & used an upside down 1 1/4" socket for the slide hammer portion. I sprayed the area w/Blaster & let it set for 4 days. I used above info & loosened the 10mm nuts that retain the injector & started up the engine. It ran perfect; but then the Injector popped up & fuel started coming out; so I tightened back the 10mm nuts; operated for 45 minutes; It ran like a champ. I did not need the slide hammer; but believe it will work. Now to put on the sales block. A BIG THANKS TO ALL; HOPE ANY INFO I HAVE ADDED WILL HELP YOU.