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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all and thanks in advance for any advice provided.
I have recently acquired a YM1702D (FYI, I've never owned a tractor before) and seems the clutch will not disengage. To get the tractor moving I had to force it into 1st gear (just a slight bit of grinding) and did this only to load it on the trailer. It's still on the trailer as I do not want to tear up anything else. The clutch pedal and all external linkage appears fine as it does move. I've read that attaching an implement such as bush hog, pushing in the clutch, and snatching the PTO into gear may work to disengage the clutch. Has anyone heard of doing this and is it OK to try? Are there other options I can try before having to break the tractor apart? BTW, I needed to fill the tractor with hydraulic oil due to leaking boot/seal.

Another issue is an oil leak at the brake boot on right side. Is this just a dust cover or is there a seal that will need to be replaced? I've read there is no seal as it has wet brakes and it's a vent that may be plugged?? No idea where this vent is but cleaning a vent and replacing a boot sounds easy enough. I haven't spent money on a manual as I not 100% sure I will keep the tractor so any info is much appreciated. Heck if someone could tell me what all the leavers are for would be nice as everything is labeled in Chinese.o_O

Thanks again for any input.
 

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There is no oil seal in there. You have wet brakes. The boot is the seal. You will lose some fluid when changing it but not all.

Quite a few ideas about a stuck clutch which seems to be what you have. One is to push against a tree or immovable object. Make sure you have clutch pushed down when doing whatever so it can release if it comes unstuck. Also read this. https://www.hoyetractor.com/clutchstuck.htm

You should have a vent as shown on this picture. I doubt anything wrong with it. Likely your boot just bad. They are worked every time you step on the brake.

Here is the boot. https://www.hoyetractor.com/PROD/BRB-3691.htm

If you want to attach pictures of your levers I will tell you what they are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There is no oil seal in there. You have wet brakes. The boot is the seal. You will lose some fluid when changing it but not all.

Quite a few ideas about a stuck clutch which seems to be what you have. One is to push against a tree or immovable object. Make sure you have clutch pushed down when doing whatever so it can release if it comes unstuck. Also read this. https://www.hoyetractor.com/clutchstuck.htm

You should have a vent as shown on this picture. I doubt anything wrong with it. Likely your boot just bad. They are worked every time you step on the brake.

Here is the boot. https://www.hoyetractor.com/PROD/BRB-3691.htm

If you want to attach pictures of your levers I will tell you what they are.
Many thanks Winston. I will give the push against a tree suggestion a try as I do not have the bush hog implement. The tractor is currently at a friends house, I will get some photos while I try the tree push and let you know how things went.

Thanks also for pointing out the vent in question and I will go ahead and spend the $52 for a new boot.

I also ment to ask in OP about keeping the battery charged as that's a problem as well.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You may have to get a voltmeter out and do some checking on your charging system. Your charge light is the one with the lightning bolt looking emblem. Is is lighting up any?
The lightning bolt emblem is lighting up but seems I do not have voltage from the magneto/dynamo to regulator. Only had a few minutes to check as the weather got bad so I hope to return troubleshooting soon. Will let you know exactly what I find.

Also, I did get the clutch freed up.:D No tree to push on so I used the frontend loader, pushed it in the ground, and used second gear (was the highest I could grind into). Once the wheels started spinning I pushed the brakes as hard as possible. Took a few times but the clutch is now free and I won't forget to use the locking lever ever.;)

I forgot the pictures for identifying all the levers.:( Once the boot arrives so the oil leak is stopped I may be more comfortable playing a bit to figure it all out.

Thanks
 

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I have recently acquired a YM1702D (FYI, I've never owned a tractor before) Heck if someone could tell me what all the leavers are for would be nice as everything is labeled in Chinese.o_O

Thanks again for any input.
Actually, everything is in Japanese. :) And yes, many of the Yanmar and Mitsubishi owners can help you with the levers and knobs.

That YM1702D is a nice machine. It's right at the size of the largest SCUT (Sub-Compact Utility Tractor). And even better it's a 3-cly diesel.
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/002/4/1/2417-yanmar-ym1702.html

For the most part, Yanmar made much of the John Deere compact tractors from the late 1970s till almost the early 2000s. Today, Yanmar offers the engine or just the engine and chassis with the hydraulics. JD just adds the wheels and body panels.

Anything an ATV attachment or implement uses, this machine can use in the same size and weight category. Just that this tractor has the 3PT hitch hookup instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
You may have to get a voltmeter out and do some checking on your charging system. Your charge light is the one with the lightning bolt looking emblem. Is is lighting up any?
Finally had time to revisit the electrical issue and found I do have voltage from the dynamo. The voltage also changes with RPM's so that all looks good. I've ordered a voltage regulator and hope that will resolve the charging issue.

I also have the upper-left light indication on and from what I've read that's just a water level indication for the battery. Safe to ignore?

The new boot has not arrived yet but I did look at the vent you mentioned and found the hose is cracked. Could the hose be an issue and where does the clog normally occur?

Thanks
 

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Not sure where it might plug, just be sure you can blow through it.

Yes, that light is for battery acid level, ignore it or bypass it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Not sure where it might plug, just be sure you can blow through it.

Yes, that light is for battery acid level, ignore it or bypass it.
Parts arrived and I now have the battery charging and the oil leak is stopped.:D Many thanks to all on this great forum as I have learned a lot!

I have one more question, what is the lever that is left of the attachment raise lever (sitting on tractor it's on the right next to the seat)? I have tinkered with it but have not seen a difference.
Thanks
 

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I have one more question, what is the lever that is left of the attachment raise lever (sitting on tractor it's on the right next to the seat)? I have tinkered with it but have not seen a difference.
Thanks
Near the foot on the floor board? That would be the diff lock to allow BOTH wheels to lock and turn at the same time. Great moving snow or plowing really tough ground. Just be sure to lift the foot off when needing to turn sharp left or right.
 

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If it is the lever right beside and on the left of the raise lever it is your draft control. Get's complicated but it requires the use of a cable going to a tiller for it to work on your tractor. Best to ignore it. It was used with tillers in the rice fields.
 

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If it is the lever right beside and on the left of the raise lever it is your draft control. Get's complicated but it requires the use of a cable going to a tiller for it to work on your tractor. Best to ignore it. It was used with tillers in the rice fields.
Oh wow, he may have draft control. That's great for a 3PT finish mower. It was an option on the Yanmar made John Deere's for this reason. His best source would be John Deere 650/850 use of the draft control feature.

Best for H102 to snap an image and circle or point to the control. :cool:
 
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