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Discussion Starter #1
I remember reading somewhere that you should not use synthetic oil in Robin engines. I e-mailed Robin and never received a reply. Does anyone know about this?
I have a log splitter with an eight horsepower
Wisconsin Robin engine on it and was thinking of switching to synthetic. The little manual I received with the engine states straight 30wt but I have been using 10W-30 because of using it in colder weather.
 

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Is this an older Robin engine? I have a pressure washer with a 13.5 hp Subaru Robin engine on it. Runs great and I would judge the quality and workmanship of the engine to be up there with Honda. I use SAE 40 in mine which is what the owner's manual calls for in warm climate temps.
 

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Wisconsin and Fuji-Robin's 25 year distribution contract ended in early 90's. Wisconsin had their own problems trying to survive.....so,Robin opened US oiffices,setup their own distribution network (usually with previous Wisconsin distributors) and later,added the Subaru to Robin name trying to gain brand awareness. They also introduced newer engines and have continued on a on a regular basis. Great engines,btw.
Also make a great pump & generator line,which we handle along with Honda. More for your money with Robin.

Fuji Heavy Industries is the name of the conglomerate that owns the whole shooting match. Fuji Heavy also builds bullet trains,cargo & tanker ships ,helicopters list goes on.

Why spend money on small gas engines with synthetics? Benefits (if any) are minimal on splash lubricated air cooled engines,except maybe starting in colder weather.........glad we don't have THAT problem,LOL.

Regards.......
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Neil,
I have other engines that I use synthetic oil in and would like to use the same oil instead of having different oils on the shelf. I do remember hearing Robin recommended not using synthetics for some reason. Do you know why?
This is an early 90's engine and it has been a good one. Starts on the first or second pull after sitting for months. PS-- I do use Stabil.
 

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Older engines (by this I mean flat head, over 10 yrs old) can actually have "looser" tolerances on internal machined parts than their more modern ohv cousins. The super slick synthetics just aren't good for them.
Older engines were also run a while for rings to "seat" and compression would increase after the engine was "broken in",giving a more efficient,powerful engine.You can actually lose this seal between the cylinder wall and piston rings by switching to synthetics.
Even in modern ohv engines...the benefit just isn't there to justify cost. An excellent dino oil is Kohler's Command oil. Its a 10-30 wt since Kohler Commands have hydraulic lifters that can do "goofy" things if you use a 30wt in them. They also have a 30wt Magnum oil for flathead engines. Both are formulated for small displacement,air-cooled higher heat generating small engines.
The real secrets to long engine life are clean air filters,regular oil changes and running at speeds that let the engine develop and use its rated power instead of "lugging" at lower rpm's where the engine runs overloaded and hotter than it should.
Dirt and heat are the enemies of an air-cooled engine.
 
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