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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When brush cutting the PTO lever will pop forward and disengage output to drive the blades. It’s more likely to occur when the blades are under a heavier load.

What is this a symptom of? What should I check for?

Thanks
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Item 1 is the PTO lever that is disengaged in this photo and is moved to the rear to engage the PTO. The black knob on the circular plate is a dip stick and the fluid level looks correct.
Is item 2 the filler plug for the reservoir the dip stick is measuring?
Thanks
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Plant Wood Automotive exterior
 

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Good that you added the photo so we know you have a 4 cylinder 2000 and not a 3 cylinder model. Always mention which one you have.
With the engine shut off and nothing attached to the pto grab the pto shaft and see how much you can slide it in or out.
If more than about 1/16" it's likely that the circlip that holds the pto bearing in place has been forced out of its groove.
My bet is your pto seal back there is leaking too.
Having the pto kick out of gear is a pretty good indicator of a circlip problem.
What causes the circlip to get pushed out of the groove is too long of a driveline on your implement or is not telescoping properly.
You can hook it up but when the 3 point is raised the geometry of the lift pushes the driveline/pto shaft into the tractor further than it should and puts everything in a bind. The weak link is the circlip which gets displaced.
If you do have more than 1/16" end play you will need to drain the oil out of the rear end, remove the 4 bolts #11 then pull the entire pto shaft and rear hub completely out of the tractor to fix the circlip.
(No worries - nothing gonna fall apart inside. Just pull it out)
Put a new gasket #9 and oil seal #2 in while you have it apart.
The circlip is either #5 or #6 depending on your model in the diagram below.And check the length of your driveline and that it is well greased and not bent so it telescopes properly or this will happen again.
Please let us know what you find back there and if this solves the problem.
Those are great old tractors.

https://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr55139ar397208
 

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Use a good generic hytrans or UTF (universal tractor fluid) that meets Ford 134D specs. It should say that on the label.
Fleet Farm, TSC, maybe even your local Wal Mart if it is a rural store.
And you should get a repair manual for your tractor.
Best bang for your buck is the I&T FO-20 manual.
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/FO20_5721.htm
They will have the parts you need too.

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/store/model_parts.cgi?SearchArea=Ford&&md=601&cat=PTO / Driveline&r=mcats

A bit of advice on ordering parts for your tractor:
Ford built two completely different 2000s. The early one, built from 1962-64 was based on and identical to the 641 tractor. Then in 1965 they came out with the 3 cyl 2000 which is a completely different animal.
Many parts sellers don't know there is a difference or get confused and send you parts for a 3 cyl which will be Wrong = Agravating!
So order parts for a 641. It will make your life easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What is the difference in c clips 5 and 6. I wanted to preorder the parts. Is the internal diameter the difference?

There are 2 clips correct? One on either side of the bearing? So I need 2 of the correct type clip.
 

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What is the difference in c clips 5 and 6. I wanted to preorder the parts. Is the internal diameter the difference?

There are 2 clips correct? One on either side of the bearing? So I need 2 of the correct type clip.
I'm afraid I can't answer that.
Most of my experience is with the 3 cylinder models - 2,3,4000 and derivatives.
However, the symptoms you describe point to a classic case of a damaged circlip for ALL the smaller Fords from 1939 till 1981 and in some models beyond.
I can tell you this much:
In the 1930s, 40s and early 50s the standard pto shaft size was 1 1/8" diameter.
As the horsepower of tractors increased they required larger dia pto shafts to keep from twisting them off so the standard went to 1 3/8". It is still 1 3/8" even today.
Your tractor was designed in the early 50s and improved as the years went along. By the early 60s when your tractor was built the standard was 1 3/8" but many farmers still had a lot of 1 1/8" pto equipment so both sizes of pto shaft were available.
This is a long winded way of telling you I do not know why there are two circlips shown.
But
If I was a betting man I would hedge toward #5 being for 1 1/8" shaft and #6 being for 1 3/8".
To be certain you might stop in to your local New Holland dealer and get the parts you need from them. You will pay a bit more but you will get good quality, correct parts.
To measure a spline you measure the major diameter not the minor dia. Parts man might ask what size shaft you have so have it handy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you for the all the help. I located the new holland dealer in my area and they will order the parts for me. That link really helped the clerk figure out what parts I would need.

I love learning about new things.
Thanks again
Pete
 

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#5 locks to the bearing's outer race in the cover, #10.
#6 locks to the bearing's inner race on the shaft.

If it is a single speed PTO and the tractor is assembled after January 1 1959, there will be two of #6 needed (#35 in the attached diagram). "Rear and Front" could mean that there are one on each side of the bearing, I do not know.

In the pictures in your thread
https://www.tractorforum.com/thread...-year-of-this-ford-tractor.41523/#post-291839
there are some numbers in the casting that looks like date codes, and they would point to 1962.
So, probably you have two small snap rings.

***** Edit:
It seems like New Holland is referring to Rear and Front PTO shafts, and that they mean that the small extra snap ring is going somewhere on the front PTO shaft. Look at this:
https://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr55139ar397044

#34 is the rear PTO shaft, the one you will be pulling out together with the cover and bearing.
There is only one of #35 on this shaft. The other #35 goes somewhere on the front shaft (#14), but there is nothing showing where it is supposed to be.

Sorry for misleading you, you only need one of the small snap rings (Part number 46810) for this job.

The larger snap ring (#36); Part number 314267, superseeded by Part number 81809581, is also needed. It can probably be reused, but better safe than sorry.
*****
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Based on overrun videos I would need to remove zert and punch out the pin to get the coupler off but I only see one zert. There has to be an opposing hole to punch out the pin. I will really clean the body of the coupler. Maybe the opposite zert was sheared off at some point and is under years of build up of surface crud. If it’s there I will drill it out carefully.
 
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