How much land to you have?
Then I would talk to neighbors who have similar to what you have, what tractor do they recommend?
I would have two at least, a mower for yard, tractor for pasture, etc.
I wouldn't buy an expensive attachment for just one project.

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We have over 50 acres, mostly open pasture. Our one neighbor has a kubota that's nice, but expensive and the other also has a kubota, but it's too small to move hay bales.

 

You really need a front wheel assist unit with a loader and the loader will need a quick attach system so you can change from a bucket to a hay spear or forks if need be and for moving rounds, no less than 50 horsepower. You should be able to find a used unit for a reasonable price if you look around. Just steer clear from any tractor that is Tier 4 final. Too many electronics to fail.

Me, I'm partial to Kubota's myself.

 

Lifting a cow and a hay bale will be the limiting factors. Probably at least a 2500lb full height lift rating.
Dad's new yanmar yt359r would fit the bill. So would a comparable sized machine from any manufacturer. Kubota makes bigger machines as well.
Do you have haying equipment in mind? I think some of the big rollers draw a decent amount of hp, but not sure. That's not my thing.
Deere of course makes machined of all sizes, but they are rather infamous for fighting right to repair laws. I think the Agco brands use Chinese components, and I do everything I can now to avoid giving money to the CCP. LS I hear horror stories from with regards to honoring their warranty. Mahindra has a reputation for being of sub par quality in general. Ideally I'd get something old enough to not be computerized. 50 to 75 hp (maybe a touch larger if the bale roller wants it), 4x4, and power steering are going to be must haves with heavy loader work. You'll also want to fill the rear tires.
Dad's Yanmar with filled industrial tires is absolutely perfect for loader strength to back end weight. A load I needed to rev the engine to lift, unloaded the rear tires enough that I had to put it in 4x4 to back up a slight incline. Im not sure you'll want industrial tires for you slimy mud though. I like them for loader work, but ag tires are better for mud.

 

I don't agree with filling the rear tires which seems to be a popular option today. Neither of my M9's have filled tires, never have. I run the optional Kubota cast centers on both, never had issue one with picking up anything within the capabilities of the front end loaders.

The issue with loaded rears is compaction because you have the incorrect tread design. Always R1's bar tread tires for farm work.

If you are running hay or row cropping (which I do), compaction becomes an issue and so does destroying the plants themselves. Why farmers run duals today or tracked machines. Why destroy the crop by compaction. Counter productive.

Far as brand of unit, I run Kubota's because they are reliable tractors and I have a dealer close by. At some point you will always need parts. Running a tractor with no support close y always entails a wait for parts and if it's something that requires professional (dealer) intervention, you are screwed.. I prefer not to be. When I need my units to perform, it's NOW, not waiting for parts.

I also have a feedlot operation (I raise steers for sale and have for years. I cannot remember one time where I 'raised' a cull in the bucket. I just drag them out and deposit them in the containment pit when they die.

Both my M's have substantial front loaders that can handle any round bale I make up to 6 x 4, no issue. In fact, I usually put a rear spear on the 3 point and a spear on the front and run 2 at a time. Never an issue, never has been.

Reason I state at least 50 pto horsepower isn't because of the power but the weight of the units. You need a substantially sized unit to move rounds and move cattle and clean dry lots and they all will require R1 tires and most likely front wheel assist.

I consider a 50 pto horsepower unit the MINIMUM size. Anything under that won't work... and finding a used unit that is is good shape will be difficult. Users are getting wise to the T4 final units and their inherent issues so the used market (pre 4 units) is getting tougher all the time.

I went 600 miles to buy my last M9 and was lucky to find it and it still needed some serious work to bring it back to being a reliable unit, in fact I put almost 6000 bucks in it to get it to a state of reliablilty.

I realize that most of the posts on here are about people buying old tractors, usually small ones and then keeping them running. Not me. I depend on mine for farm use. Not a hobby thing for me. Farming for profit isn't a hobby, it's a vocation.

I don't care what brand a person buys. All distills down to reliability and properly sizing the unit for it's intended use. Too small only causes grief down the road when it won't perform the intended tasks.

For me, anything under 50 horse I consider a toy, hobby unit. I prefer over 75 pto horses. My M's both have 90+ pto horsepower btw and both weigh over 8000 pounds dressed.

If I was the OP, I'd consider a later model unit with front wheel assist, front end loader with SSQA, at least 2 sets of rear remotes and a gear drive transmission, with a hydraulic shuttle and no dry clutch as well as Cat 2 3 point with draft sensing and I'd steer clear of high meter hour used units as well. With a high hour used unit, all you are buying is someone else's issues. People don't sell older units that are issue free, they keep them and use them. When the issues outweigh the usefulness, they then sell them.

My opinion, but then I use mine for farming. Not a hobby.

My cab unit, I bought in 2004, new. It was 52 grand. Runs like a top but it gets maintained on a tight schedule. My open station M9 is a 2002 and I bought it used (600 miles away) and I put around 6 grand in it in hard parts to bring it back to a level of reliability I require for my operation. That 6 grand included new injectors, a pump rebuild, new loader bushings, new tie rod ends, rebuilding the outer left outboard planetary a new front driveshaft coupler and miscellaneous parts, some of it I did myself because I have the tools and the shop but some of it was done at my dealer because I lack the expertise to do it. Both of them get Kubota filters, premium oils and greasing every 10 running hours and both are kept inside when not being used.

Finally, both are appreciating in value as well, a big plus for me as I don't plan on doing this forever.

 

the loaded rear tires have likely far less ground pressure than the unloaded fronts, especially with a loader hanging out the front. R4s will have less ground pressure than R1 as well if that is your main focus. Dad's Yanmar has R4s because it was purchased with loader work in mind. The smaller L series Kubota he has is equipped with R1. Great for mud, but haying doesn't happen with muddy ground. The duals, quads, rubber tracks, whatever, I always thought was for spring farm work, not so much fall farm work. Maybe I am completely wrong there.
FWIW, I have a 35hp tractor that outweighs you Ms.

 

35 horsepower won't cut it for much in the way of PTO operation, especially with hay tools except maybe a hay rake. My round baler requires a minimum of 50 pto and my disc cutter also requires at least 50.

 

- A machine that is 42Hp or better.
Several of the 40+hp machines are capable to meet your lift requirements and still be closer to your intended budget. You'll need to look at the tractor specs ahead of time.

• Must be a 4x4 or 4WD. Mud, slopes, rocks, got to have this.
• Low height profile to keep center of gravity closer to the ground.
• ROPs are required for your land, so if you buy used or older, make sure the machine can be upgraded. Your life is more important that any machine or farm work!

Tires are going to be the real item to meet your needs. Here's some tread patterns to review to compare for your needs.

I too would echo a Yanmar machine. However, those are pricey new. The 2012 Cub Cadet/Yanmar EX450
wouldn't break the bank as a new machine could.
Here is a great review to consider.
2013 Yanmar Lx4900 Turbo HST Review | Tractor News

Also there is an LX4900 or LX490 should the 50Hp be a consideration too.

What I really like about these Cub Cadet Yanmar's is, most can accept a belly mower. That was the original intent to make it a Cub Cadet.

Turn the sound down.

I have a pre-computer era tractor. Modern enough just before the computers were introduced. The trouble is, there are no YM4500 nor YM5000 machines to be had state side. I only know of 2, YM7000 machines state side. There are several dozen YM4300 machines. But, 43Hp might be a little shy of the power you will need.
Groo is right, pre-computer tractors are easy to work on. Just the basics for electrical too.

As for adding liquid weight in the wheels, I'm not sure on either approach. I've made it the past 7 years without it. Sure, it could have helped greatly with snow removal. Being in MS, that is far from happening down there for you.

And people do forget about the early known tractors from Japan up to today made by Mitsubishi.
The GM451B would also do the job nicely. 45.5Hp.
MITSUBISHI AGRICULTURAL MACHINERY

Or the GA451UV
MITSUBISHI AGRICULTURAL MACHINERY

Now, Mitsubishi is merged with Mahindra. On the Mitsubishi side of things, the company stands strong with support for their owners.

 

My other one with the mower attached.

 

Been doing this a long time (at least 20 years now) so I know what works and what don't.

 

Not a tedder, it's a rotary rake... I don't use side delivery roper rakes. I cut my dry down by 2 days with a rotary. Far as round balers go, my NH 450 requires at least 45 pto horses to achieve a full 4x5 round bale in net. I don't screw around, I get in and get it done. Have a 2 star tedder in the barn. Been sitting for a few years as well.

Only been doing this for the last 15 years and its all commercial forage for the most part. I hold back about 15 rounds to feed my cattle. Everything else is sold. In fact everything I will run this year is already sold.

Have a nice 575 in the barn I have not used in 5 years as well. Should sell it. Has all the factory options except a kicker. Got away from small squares and don't ever want to go back. I run 200 acres on 2-3 cuts every year and it all leaves on semi trailers.

Business for me. Not a hobby.

 

Have a nice 575 in the barn I have not used in 5 years as well. Should sell it. Has all the factory options except a kicker. Got away from small squares and don't ever want to go back. I run 200 acres on 2-3 cuts every year and it all leaves on semi trailers.

Business for me. Not a hobby.

Being up here in the dairy land of WI, the smaller SQ and the larger SQ bales are the highest in demand. So many goat dairy farms, horse farms, and lama farms up this way. Doing round bales in this area would put you of of business. Those that do get larger round bales have them trucked in a distance. At best 2 good cuts a year up this way, 3 would be a fantastic year. Just those Spring rains flood the area for too long. 2019 was a bad year for that. The tedder or rotary works nicely after the hemp is harvested too. Baling hemp grass for rope making for ships is a high demand. I assist on a 400 acre plot near me. It does pay really well. And the smaller tractors are preferred because packing the soil with heavy equipment is a no-no for hemp fields.

 

As an aside, I had a Kuhn Masterdrive trailing rake and I sold it last year. Don't care for trailing rakes because they leave windrow tails. With a 3 point rake, I can lift the rake at the end of a windrow, swing around and rake another without leaving a tail that I have to chase with my round bailer. I don't like chasing tails. Neither does my round bailer and chasing tails takes time I don't have to waste. I started out with a NH side delivery roper rake and soon learned that a rotary produces a much better windrow that allows air to move through it. The 450 is 100% computer driven. All I do is what the display tells me to do and stop when it tells me to so it will wrap the bale. I open the end gate, kick the bale out and close it and go on. Nice thing about the 450 is, it will auto wrap in net over the edge 52" wide or wrap in twine if need be. I carry 4 twine balls all the time but rarely use it. My customer prefers net and so do I actually. When I get into it, I'll take some pictures and post them. be a while for that. Way too early.

 

I think if we get a baler, it would be a small square baler. It's just so much easier for us to store and use.

 

Like I state in a previous post, I have a almost new New Holland 575 High capacity small square bailer I'd like to sell. Has every option but the hydraulic tongue swing and has ran about 5000 squares in it's lifetime, always stored inside, well maintained and runs poly or sisal. Would all depend on where you are located at in as much as it can be towed down the road but really needs to be hauled on a commercial trailer. I'll even include about 20 balls of poly with it.

I may list it on Tractor House, have not decided yet. 5K would buy it and I have all the manuals for it and, unlike a round baler, it don't take a gob of pto power to run it. The 575 is the best producing bailer NH ever made and it has the extra sweep (wide) accumulator as well. Comes with a quarter turn chute but will also take a hay wagon behind it if necessary.

 

I'm in Ava, MO

 

One thing I learned pretty early on and that was, always buy bigger than you 'think' you need.. You can 'grow' into a bigger tractor but you cannot 'grow' into one that isn't big enough and that gets to be expensive real fast.

I'm on my 10th and 11th Kubota's. Started out with smaller ones and kept getting bigger as my power requirements increased. Now, I size my implements (hay tools and stuff) to the power the tractors produce and I have plenty. Wasn't that way when I started out. Of course my Kubota dealer loved me. I was always trading them in on bigger units. That came to an end with the M9's. Perfectly sized for my applications. Live and learn...

 

Transportation would kill you. I'm in Southeast Michigan, I suggest getting in Tractor House and looking at used square bailers there. The important thing with any square bailer is the condition of the knotters and the bale knives and it's hard to ascertain knotter condition if you don't know what to look for. Probably the best way is to see a bailer run. They can be very difficult to get them to knot correctly if they don't tie right. Lots of stuff going on and it all has to be in an exact sequence or they won't make a bale. Round bailers are much simpler. No timing involved other than the wrap cycle and with mine, it's all controlled by the computer whereas on a square bailer, everything is mechanical. No computer involved, just chains and gears and belts. Very mechanical and very touchy.

 

I could go on for pages about small squares and the labor involved and the people that don't like to pay for them but want the best they can get all the time. I won't. Reason is, I have one customer that buys every round I make and has for 6 years now, pays on time, never whines about anything and drops his flatbed trailers in the fields so all I have to do is load them. His guys strap them down, hook up the road tractors and off they go. I usually load 50 on each semi. He has already committed to every one I run this year. Easy for me to handle. I do everything myself, no additional labor at all. Why I have 2 tractors. One to mow with and bale with, the other pulls the rake. I typically run 500 rounds + every year and I'm home for dinner at 6pm every evening. Either tractor can load rounds, whatever I have available at the time gets used.

This is cattle country and my customer breeds and sells cattle and of all things bucking bulls. Has his own Rodeo company, we are one of his sponsors.

If I had to go back to idiot cubes, I'd sell everything and quit doing it and rent the ground out. At 71 years old, I strive to make what I do as easy as possible.

Idiot cubes and me don't mix well anymore. All the equipment is paid for and if I want a new piece of equipment, I pay cash now. I dislike payment books

If I was 30 years younger, things would be different I'm sure but I'm not. I might do this 5 more years at best and retire. I own the ground outright so I'll cash rent it to some row cropper and call it good.

 

Took about 30 seconds of that video to tell me she don't know squat about square bailers. Grease on the knotter components has nothing to do with how the knotters tie. In fact my 575 has centralized greasing and knotter blowers on it. She needs to read her owners manual and follow that.

Never heard of a mini round baler, not something I'd be interested in anyway. Might as well bale squares instead.

 

I can’t speak as to other models, but my Kubota MX 5200 handles large 6’ round bales. Im estimating a weight of close to 1300 lbs dry...it or a similar size may suit your needs. This is a 52 hp 2014 model that’s tier 4 compliant. The MX is a crossover between the Lighter L models and the full on utility M series, so it’s a compromise. I do have rear tires loaded as many do...with one machine it’s impractical to manage installing heavy wheel weights without a fork lift or some other form of lift...plus weights are high dollar.

Mine is 2wd with a front end loader, but you will need 4wd with the hills and mud. I’m on flat land so isn’t an issue for me. When lifting bales etc I also have a box blade on rear for more weight. If ground is soft, tires will rut it up but anything lighter doesn’t have the ass weight to hold it down.

This tractor or comparable size one in other brand is good for a 6 or 7 foot shredder but can’t say as far as balers etc. in short it’s a good all round tractor that will suit 50 acres and allow you to work closer to house as it’s maneuverable. Too big to be a yard mower but you don’t need to break a bottle of champagne over it each time launch it either.

price range will determine a lot naturally....I got mine last June and it’a a 2014 and had under 100 hours and is like new. Was equipped with a loader and got it for 14,500. Keep in mind mind is a 2WD gear shift...the gear shift is durable and well suited if your going to be using for periods of ground engaging type stuff like shredding etc. Not as handy as hydrostatic drive if your going to be doing a lot of loader work like moving dirt with constant back and forth. The gear shuttle means, stop and clutch and move shuttle lever but that’s no issue for me. I don’t like the whine of the hydro...also keep in mind prices have jumped and availability plunged with the pandemic....plus the 4wd usually adds 6k to 8k on this size tractor and you have to get front wheel assist with hills and mud as it’s a safety issue.

There’s several reputable makes, but a skid steer quick attach is a huge huge plus so that rules out John Deere in my book...they have a J hook attach which is good but your stuck buying only John Deere implement attachments for front end and they’re way more expensive with no benefit and more cumbersome to attach and remove.

 

Actually, aftermarket builders like ATI make a JD compatible SSQA that you don't have to use I-Match attachments on, not that I'm all that fond of JD in the first place....

I do have a JD hay mower however. It's my 'spare' mower in case my NH has issues which it rarely does.

It's much easier to find a T4 compliant tractor today used, than a Pre 4 units like I have because of the issues people are having with them. Not all but when owners are having issues they are usually big issues, consequently, pre 4 units like I own are getting hard to find and when you do find one, they command a premium price and most of them will have serious hours on them as well., not that serious hours mean a lot with a diesel. Most diesel tractors with proper care will run well in the excess of 10K hours with just routine maintenance. Have a good friend with a 4020 Deere that has rolled over his hour meter and it's still running strong. He does take good care of it however. When I bought the open station 3 years ago used, it had just under 6000 hours on the meter and was used in a dairy operation for manure management. Other than having cow crap everywhere, the motor was sound as well as the running gear. Cow crap washes off, no issue. First stop for mine was my Kubota dealer with a fix whatever needs fixing, run the overhead, bench test the injectors and put it on the dyno and call me when it's done. Had it 3 months (in the off season) and called me and told me it would be delivered on a certain day and it was with a clean bill of health and a 4 grand invoice. I consider that necessary maintenance. New tie rod ends, new outboard left planetary bushings, seals and kingpin, new front crankshaft seal, new harmonic balancer, new thermostat, fresh coolant, oil change and filters, new primary and secondary air filters, new rear PTO seal, new exhaust manifold gasket, new multifunction switch, new steering column bushing and a dyno slip showing 92 pto horsepower. I do have one advantage in that the head tech at the dealership I deal with is a personal friend of mine so I know when he does it, it's done right the first time. Besides, I've bought all my Kubota's there, this is the only exception but then they didn't have one so I couldn't get it there anyway. Even though I didn't purchase it there, they still treat it like I did. Good dealership.

I don't foresee ever buying another tractor, the ones I now own are all I need power wise and weight wise and FYI, you can order the cast centers as an option on many Kubota tractors, as well as JD.... both of mine are cast center section which precludes the need for loaded rear tires.

I don't ever fiddle with tractor tires, especially the big ones on my M's. I call the farm tire dealer and have them take care of them. Just too big and heavy to fiddle with and they have the equipment to handle them, I don't. I just reshod the open station with new R1's. 4 tires was 5 grand mounted with new tubes. Took the tire man about 45 minutes start to finish. Never even dismounted them, did them right on the tractor. Takes a hydraulic bead breaker to break the beads and a cherry picker to move everything around. They come with all that on the service truck. If I had a little tractor I might. I have a tire machine in the shop but the big ones, no way. If one fell over not even being loaded, it would crush me. Better leaving the tires to a professional.

 

One thing that most people aren't aware of at least with Kubota is, if you purchase a NEW Kubota, it will ship with a light duty materials bucket standard equipment with the FEL. You still have to specify the Kubota SSQA which has the industry standard pin spacing (that engages all Bobcat style) attachment plates, but, there is also a not widely known bucket option. The standard buckets are what Kubota calls 'Material buckets', meant for loose materials like sand or gravel or manure od stuff like that, but are not built for digging and what I term excavation. What happens is, owners use the light duty bucket for digging and bend the cutting edge or the side sheet welds fail, or both.

Kubota has an optional bucket, a heavy duty 'excavation bucket and it comes with a bolt on cutting edge or a weld on as you specify. Both mine have the heavy duty buckets. Much stouter than the standard bucket and the bottom floor of the HD buckets are a double layer of steel. You have to option that and lots of dealers won't or don't realize there is an option, just like the cast centers.

I believe Deere is the same way.

 

Yeah, I have watched the tire service rep replace the front tires on my bro’s JD. I forget the numbers but his is pre tier regen motor and is a utility size 80 plus model. That’s way more tractor than the original poster would need with 50 acres.

While bigger is more capable it also has limits as it’s a heavy heavy machine. Mine is cat 1 or 2 3pt which means more versatile as far as implement use.

She needs to list out her primary uses and occasional uses and select size and model that can handle it all safely. If like me and most of us, we use on weekends and evenings after day of work elsewhere. Not necessarily hobby but not full time means of living use.

as example..I used to sledge hammer two breaker bars into round bales, tie off with chains and drag to small pasture to feed with truck or prior small Ford NAA tractor. Doing that weekly sure sucked the fun out of getting stuff done. After dealing with that every winter for 15 years and paying for other things I treated myself to my current new to me Kubota.

while not a full time use machine, it only had 90 hours on it at 6 years old when I got it past summer. I’ve used it right at 50 hours since that time which is nothing but have used it far more frequently than the original owner

 

I assume
Mine is the light duty but it has a welded cutting edge. No double bottom though. I see no way to replace the edge unless you want to do major cutting and welding. I will say it seems properly marched with the tractor as I’m not sure that anything less than a full on utility would handle the pressure your talking about with the heavy duty bucket.

for us small time users the more weight of the bucket reduces the lift capacity. I also have a heavy duty fork attachment along with hay spear. As I said ya gotta match your machine with your use.

 

That is the light-general use material bucket, not the excavation bucket. If you want the cutting edge to last, get a bolt on tooth bar like an ATI for instance. Easy to tell the difference between thee 2. the light duty bucket will have a angled top edge (like yours has) and the HD excavation bucket will have a pipe welded across the top. Dealers usually spec with the light bucket, not the heavy one. the HD bucket, like the cast centers are order before build options. However, the dealer can also install them and credit you on a machine on the lot. Kubota has always been good about that.

What puts a smile in the lower cutting edge of the bucket is back dragging with the cutting edge at 90 degrees to the ground and catching it on something like a stump for instance. That puts an immediate smile in the lower sheet. So does trying to pick up something heavy with clamp on pallet forks. My feeling about clamp on pallet forks is, not on my watch, ever.

I'd say the HD bucket is 75 pounds heavier than the light duty bucket I cannot compare weights, both mine are the HD buckets.

 

I understand....for my use this one is fine as I move piled materials, hay spoils and light dirt work with the bucket. No excavating with bucket. My forks are SSQA heavy duty forks with back stop that will handle more than my FEL. Only other attachment for FEL is the hay spear so far. No aux hydro but a grapple would be nice in future once retired....I would add the aux myself when retired so no rush.

First purchase would be a 6 or 7 foot shredder as I only have a 5’ Ford shredder now, which is narrower than my wheel width minimum.

 

Think I'm gonna be relegated to sleeping in the shop soon. My wife is gonna get mad I suspect. Just priced out and got tentative delivery on a new Kubota M6-115 loaded. $115, 000.00. 60 months zero percent, 3K cash back. Only money right? Guess I'll have to trade in one of my M9's...