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Discussion Starter #1
OK, well I have some stuff I will be needing to paint up. Tractor parts, attachments, other tin stuff, and what to know what would be best for the DIY's to spray.

Now I have worked with PPG bace coat/clear coat stuff, and it looks GREAT, but BOY that stuff is not cheap.:eek: :eek:

Any lower cost stuff that will do the job, but still look OK?
 

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I assume your talking mix and reduce your own paint not a rattle can spray job. Most if not all automotive paint makers sell a cheaper sideline of paints, and most of these paints are not much different in composition than the higher priced materials that are in nicer catchier packageing. Dupont makes a great paint that is enamel and is called Dulux. Their higher grade is named Centari and also Imrom. They also market an off brand name of paint called Nasom. Its some greats tuff and costs 1/2 as much as the regular Dupont line does.

Another great paint is made by Valspar refinishing group. Its automotive and is about $11.00 a quart in my area mixed to what ever shade you want. It will reduce to make about 2 or more quarts for spray applicaiton.

SOme may say that Rustoleum is great but I for one hate the stuff almost as bad as I dislike a cat. It takes forever to dry and sometimes I have had it still tacky days later. Cherck out the yellow pages for autobody refinishing supplies and call em and check on their line of automotive paints.

Oh, Napa also has a line of paints made by Sherwin Williams IIRC.

Personally I would go with:
#1 Valspar Base Line of paints
#2 Duponts Nasom
#3 Duponts Centari
#4 Dupont Imron

All are enamel or acrylic enamel, and all can have a catalyst added to make it a harder finish. All dry quick.

You can use lacquar thinner in most any enamel based primer tomake it dry quuicker as well. Its a common procedure here in the south to use lac thinner in enamel based primers. YOu mnay also want to add some fish eye eliminator to your spray paint as well. Its cheap to buy and any type fisheye eliminator will work in any type of paints. I use it no matter what I am painting, be it lawn furniture to a vehicle or machine tool.

The above order is in regards to price

I have used most all brands, but the above brands are about all I use anymore or thats locally procured, within a reasonable distance.
 

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Any good acrylic enamel Dupont, Dizzler ( thing its spelled that way)just be sure to use the hardener for a good shining finish and add some toughness to it. They are not that pricey and give a good finish. Now if you want a real tough finish paint it with Imron paint by Dupont its a good industrial paint but its pricey.
 

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I just go to the nearest Rural King and buy a gallon of the color matches tractor and implement enamel paint. Costs about $20 a gallon and is easy to spray on as well as being pretty tough and durable paint. Make sure you use a good primer base coat.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I used to be able to get a lot of the cheaper paints, but now they are hard to find. The EPA has realy cracked down on bodyshops in NY, maybe that has something to do with it.
 

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I have a bunch of assorted colors of paints. Your right on the EPA. Around here body shops will gladly give you any unused remaining containers of paint just for the hauling it off. If they have tobut a gal to do a job and only use 3 quarts the remaining paint is put on a pallet and eventually when the pallet is full they have to pay to have it hauled off. Even basic colors like black and white get pitched....(ever really count how many shades of black or white there is. its amazing) About the only thing they do not pitch out is thinners and primers, as that works with most everything they need to refinish, but some colors only come along one time in a lifetime, so if your not too fussy in exact colors matching or just a good asortment of paints check out auto body shops and ask for any materials their throwing away and to save them for you. What is left that I do not use or want, I just let it get hard in the can (open lid a bit) and then haul it to the landfill or burn it in the trash.

I mix up all the basic colors together as long as the paints are compatable. I probably have enough Black and white and common colors to paint everything on my place at least 2 times! And sometimes its pretty neat to see what colors you can come up with by mixing odds and ends.......just don;t try to duplicate what colors you may obtain by home mixing at a later date:dazed:
 

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Like Kody said, Imron is awesome stuff. It is pricey of course, but it is very durable. Its also a quick way to kill yourself without a respirator. Imron will mess you up.

Greg
 

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Even a respirator is not enough protection from isocynates. This stuff is absorbed through the skin and eyes and while not using it every day for 8 hours at a time, may seem insignificant, you never really know what your bodies limitations are. If you are spraying in an enclosed area as you probably are since with the high cost of the paint you won't want the wind blowing dirt into it, you need a supplied air respirator, spray booth, or some strong homemade ventilation.
When I worked as painter in the body shop about 10 years ago and basecoat/clearcoat was the new paint even wearing a respirator didn't help. When I would get home at night I could taste the paint in my mouth as it was absorbed into the skin.
As for rustoleum, it may not be the highest quality paint available but if you thin it with acetone it will spray nice and lay flat with a high gloss. It takes overnight to dry hard enough to reassemble but it's cheaper and safer. You could also use a heat lamp to speed up the dry time. The Home Depot now has custom mixed rustoleum in over 100 colors.
If someone had told me when I was painting cars to use rustoleum, I would have said no it's crap. But actually it works well providing you prep and prime correctly. The cost is much less also compared with any automotive products.
 
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