[Chipmaker]

After having about 48 hours on it it seems like the hood likes to vibrate and start chaffeing the different places it contacts. So far it has not worn any gouges etc in it but there is always a residue of either black or green powder so its inevitable that someday it will wear it thin. I bought some peel and press rubber bumpers, but they proved to be too darn hard to compress easily, and then when you did get the hood closed it made opening it backup a real chore. I then bought some stick on heavy weight velcro and only used the knappy portion not the hook portion. This stuff seems to work perfect to eliminate any chaffeing and vibration and it compresses just fine but still offers lots of cushion. Now all my little rattles are gone.


Oh well gotta go for now, the grass in the back field is calling my name...............and it may be the first and only cut of the season for this grass if gas prices soon don't get lower. I may just not cut any grass.............just buy some more goats and a few cows and let em have at it!

On the USENET rural living newsgroup a person is going to convert his push mower and L & G tractor to propane so he does not have to pay the high $$$ for gasoline..........duh......I could just imagine what a LP conversion kit sells for, and then mounting and pushing around a push mower with a 20# propane tank on it, or having one on my garden tractor. I imagine you could buy gas to cut your lawn for a long time using gasoline even at the high price before you recoup what it would cost to convert, or break even.........oh well its his $$$ and equipment just hope he is happy with his results. Bet you he is a bean counter in a government agency somewhere! Thats how they think!

 

[jodyand]

Chipmaker they have this clear vinyl stuff that you can put on the front of your car to protect it from bugs and rocks that might work to keep it from chaffing. I have something like it on my cub cadet but its the same color as the hood it came with it.
Jody

 

[Terminator20]

I would put rubber around the edges of the hood. You know the kind that you see on your seat pan.

 

[Chipmaker]

Applying an edgeing on the hoods edges or even itssupport structure would not work as they do not actually even come close to touching the opposing surfaces. All the vibration is setup at the pooints thats supposed to hold the hood assembly firmly in place when down. These amount to nothing more than small raised bumps which fit into a slight recess molded either in the hood or its support structure. On the top of the dash panel is another area, which is at least 3 inches or more away from an edge, and here it merely has a series of raised bumps to support the hood over the dash panel.

I have some clear, gray and white heavy duty type vynil (like you see around the front and back edges of a fender opening on vehicles to protect from stones and chipping) that I acquired some time ago. I had thought about applying this heavy film but went with the velcro knappy stuff instead. The film I have was used to seal leading edges and protect leading edges of wings etc on aircraft from erosion. Its made by 3M so if the velcro knappy stuff does not hold up I'll give the vynil film a try.

I also applied some anti slip material to the area where yur foot rubs against on the floor. Its natural for your boot or shoes to rub nb the tractors floor pan in this area, and eventually it wears away the paint. I used some black anti slip material such as is sold for making decks etc on boats slip resistant. Its a porus grainy rubberized self stick material. I have 6" wide rolls of it in Black, white and grey, that I picked up on ebay a while back. I also applied this about three years ago to my Ford 1720's center section under and around the foot pedals on the sheetmetal that supports the dash etc, as well as the flat broad surfaces of the front of the fenders, and its like the day it was installed. No more worn paint. You can get this material at any boat or marine supply house or perhaps even those self stick anti slip strips you can put in a bath tube if you can find something other than flowers etc, but then again some may like the flowers etc design.

 

[memmurphy]

Thanks for sharing Chipmaker. My LT 150 is of the same design. I tried adjusting the plastic catches to tighten it up. But it still has some raddle. Needs something to cushion it. I was digging through the shop to see if I had anything laying around. I think I have some old pool table felt. I might try glueing pieces of it at the contact points.

Mark

 

[Greg]

Memmurphy,

You might try attaching the felt with a good double sided tape first before you mount it permanently. Some glues may damage the material you put it on or be very difficult to get off. Just a thought.

Greg

 

[Greg]

Sorry, double post.

 

[memmurphy]

Good point Greg. If it doesn't work, that would make it easier to change to something else. I have both the thin tape and the type with the soft center laying about somewhere. I used the type with the soft center to attach my hour clock to the center console without having to drill holes.

Mark

 

[ducati996]

I use fuel hoses at varying thickness to quite any rattle or rubbing....split the fuel hose in half and it holds tight on to plastic or metal...

Duc

 

[memmurphy]

The felt stopped the hood rattle. Now I noticed a little chatter from the plastic lift and brake locking levers. I think some felt in a strategic location should take care of them to.

Mark

 

[Lab Guy]

How about trying varying thicknesses and widths of weatherstripping???
The stuff is very soft and compressable.

Just my .02

-drew

 

[Argee]

Originally posted by DrewGX345
How about trying varying thicknesses and widths of weatherstripping???
The stuff is very soft and compressable.

Just my .02

-drew

WELCOME DrewGX345 :spinsmile


Good advice.

 

[Chipmaker]

I had tried weather stripping already and it worked ok for awhile. I have to say it wold all depend on its application and how a hood or other part chaffs as to if it will last. The hood areas that vibrated on my JD were the latching indent sockets. A slight convex protusion that snapped into a concave depression on the hood.. The action of the hood springing over the protusion soon tore up the rubber just from opening an closing the hood. But it should work fine and last a long time if say the hood top is flat and it lays on a flat surface, it wold merely need to lay on that weatherstripping and would not deform it until its snapped into place.

I went the velcro method mainly as its durable, conforms easy, I had it already as the wife had me pick her some up for some cross stitch frames she had that needed velcro added, and its water proof, and will not stay wet for long.

On my Ford 1720 I sealed all the spot welded lapped fender and hood joints with aerospace 2 part sealant. That stuff will last for ever, and it takes paint just fine. I also frayed the edges and items that touched metal to metal and it eliminated all noise and chaffeing. I intended to mix up some of that stuff for the JD but tried the velcro instead. Still holding up fine and doing what its supposed to do.