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Just finished installing the add-on hydraulic lift kit. I've had it for awhile and finally got around to putting on one of the 1050's. Which one? The '69. Now I know some of you will be thinking why would I put the best accesory on the ugliest tractor? Well, I was thinking, which tractor will I work the hardest? What if one of the hoses or seals pops, which tractor would I rather have an oil bath? The only logical answer to these questions was the $75 1969 1050.
Installation is real simple. You need to remove the four engine mounting nuts/ bolts and spacers. There are two square tube brackets that take the place of the spacers. These stick out on the right side and the hydraulic pump mounts on top. The pulley for the belt is already on the engine, so you just need to release the belt tensioner and put this belt in the middle groove. The cylinder has a flat square mounting plate that mounts on the transmission top cover partially under the seat. I removed the seat to make the job easier. The control rod has an angle bracket that mounts to an existing hole on the side of the cowl. Added 30w oil to the pump as per bolens manual and tried it out.
The ram runs in and out quickly. I mounted the snow plow on the front to see if was as quick with an attachment and it was. I also put a nut/bolt in the slide part of the lift link to get some down pressure. Turns out the hydraulics are stronger than the link which started to bend before the tractor would lift it's front wheels. But with a stronger lift link, maybe a piece of pipe, that problem would be solved.

Here's what it looks like
 

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Those units are nice. My 1000 had one for the mower deck. I never used it for cutting so I adapted a cylinder mount on the
front of the tractor and adapted a blade to it. After a couple of years of using it for snow I got tired of getting off to change the blade angle. so I found another unit and mounted the pump next to the original one. I had to unbolt the engine and make longer mounts for the pump. I put two pullys on the original pump and ran another belt from the first pump to the second. The second pump stuck out a lot but worked great. I could lift and angle without getting off the seat. I sold the tractor 2 years ago on ebay for almost nothing but the rest of the tractor was getting wore out and parts were getting expensive. I wish I had some pictures to post.
Rodster
 

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sometimes I wished I had gone Hyd instead of actuator
cant find a way to rig a pump to the GTH2548
electric ones are just as bad as the actuators on your generator
which is only 15amp on the Kolhers
 

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Discussion Starter #5
They show up even so often on ebay. Any tube frame setup will fit your 1253. There's a parts breakdown posted here on tractorforum so you can get an idea of what makes up a complete unit.

It's also worth the extra money to find a nice, clean, known to work setup. Don't jump on the first one you see if it's rusty, leaky, or missing parts. Parts are not easy to find for these and sometimes the only thing to do is to look for another pump.

Figure to spend anywhere from $100 to $250 depending on condition and any ebay feeding frenzy that might occur.

Most sets will have at least one of the support brackets cracked and or repaired. If it was done right it's nothing to worry about. If it was done wrong, that's OK too, as long as the pieces are there you can correct the repair or even make a new one.

You could try [email protected] or www.bolensboy.com. Maybe Bobby at the bolensboneyard

One of the down sides to these is that the overall height in the raised position really isn't that much. But for any heavy items like a snowblower, flail mower, or tiller it will certainly be a plus.

Good luck in your search!
 

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I completed my installation of a hydraulic unit to my '67 1050 this weekend. It is definitely worth it if you can find one - it really works great especially on the real heavy attachments like the tiller and snowblower. After installation, I tilled my garden and finally got it dirty for the first time since painting. One thing I can add to what sixchows posted earlier, is the unit takes approximately 1.5 quarts of non-detergent motor oil to fill. The manual specifies 10W in the winter, 30W in the summer. I was going to split the difference with 20W and be done with it, but my local NAPA store only had 30W in stock - so 30 it is. It's slow in the beginning, but after running for awhile it gets quicker. It is definitely nice to have.

>pf<
<img src=http://www.tractorforum.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&attachmentid=5600>
 

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I used Rustoleum for the body/chassis and NAPA engine paint for the motor. Sanded everything down - primered - whole nine yards. I've been working on it since September. The brown is a bit lighter than original - I believe it's called Leather Brown - I couldn't find any darker shades that were the premium grade. The red is Sunrise Red, the white is Antique White, and the motor is Racing Green. I used the clear coat on the chassis after painting to give it additional protection. I never paint carburetors, so it's the ole natural pot metal. Motor was completely overhauled - transmission restored. This thing is ready for another 38 years of hard labor.

It was a lot of work, but the end result is definitely worth it. I never thought I'd be able to walk outside and debate over which tractor I am going to use today to do what job. It's great!

>pf<
 

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Thanks.

Yes it is. He was listing the black one, and I had emailed him awhile back and asked if he had red - and he did. So either are available. He also has brown. Fits great and is comfortable. His email is: [email protected], and the guy I dealt with was Kevin.

>pf<
 

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1050 paint

Peachfuzz
did you use spray cans or did you use a spray gun ??????
what type of clear coat ????
I seen on a gallon can of rustoleum paint it said not to thin not sure if you could spray that through a spray gun it was pretty thick
Thanks Bolens32
 

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Bolens32
You can spray rustoleum by thinning it with acetone. Use their gray primer rather than the red rusty metal primer. Even better would be to prime with a self etching primer.
 

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Here's my fathers 1000 we just repainted with Rustoleum (spray can) it has the textured finish. Upgraded to a VW coil igintion, she sparks now! Still getting all the misc parts painted.

I have a question, The nut or threads on the front of the hydralic pump, is this an adjustment. This one is all the way in whereas the fellow who posted earlier has a lot of threads on his. Is there a way to check to make sure its adjusted right?
 

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Hi everyone wow great picuures. I will get a pic of my 120 up as soon as iget the hydraulics on. What size belt do i need for the pump? I bought mine on ebay awhile ago dont remember right off hand what i paid for it
Rich
 
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