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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello! I've got a 2016 Troy Bilt Pony, and as you know, these did not come with scalp wheels. I called Troy Bilt...and spoke with customer service. I was told I could buy the appropriate item for my tractor, was even given a model number to purchase it from Troy Bilt or elsewhere. However, what they suggested will not work...it's simply a wheel, nut & bolt. When I search online for what I need for the Pony, a wheel kit is suggested...but states it's for "2009 and earlier".

Has anyone added scalp wheel brackets for this model, and if so, can you share a kit model, etc? Thanks for your help.
 

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If you can weld and cut metal with a cut off wheel, you can make and weld on your own brackets. I'd suggest a MIG welder for control but SMAW (stick would work too). ASC has a multitude of scalp wheels available in their catalog, lots cheaper than OEM. I believe TSC has them as well.
 

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You usually only really need scalp rollers on machines that have "full floating" decks (suspended by chains like a Exmark, or Scag, zero turns). The scalp rollers are there to protect the blades if the machine traverses really uneven terrain. If you have a deck that locks in slots/notches at a fixed height with rods/bars suspending the deck (like your Troy-bilt Pony), what are you expecting scalp rollers to actually accomplish? A "bail" on the front is what allows most "fixed height" decks some movement to traverse uneven terrain. If you're continually scalping your lawn with that Pony, it's probably because you're trying to mow to low. 2 1/2" - 3 " is what most Oem's recommend for their machines. The front of the deck should be a 1/4" lower than the back for the best cut and blade wear......
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You usually only really need scalp rollers on machines that have "full floating" decks (suspended by chains like a Exmark, or Scag, zero turns). The scalp rollers are there to protect the blades if the machine traverses really uneven terrain. If you have a deck that locks in slots/notches at a fixed height with rods/bars suspending the deck (like your Troy-bilt Pony), what are you expecting scalp rollers to actually accomplish? A "bail" on the front is what allows most "fixed height" decks some movement to traverse uneven terrain. If you're continually scalping your lawn with that Pony, it's probably because you're trying to mow to low. 2 1/2" - 3 " is what most Oem's recommend for their machines. The front of the deck should be a 1/4" lower than the back for the best cut and blade wear......
THANKS. I'll check the front to back height.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you can weld and cut metal with a cut off wheel, you can make and weld on your own brackets. I'd suggest a MIG welder for control but SMAW (stick would work too). ASC has a multitude of scalp wheels available in their catalog, lots cheaper than OEM. I believe TSC has them as well.
Thanks - no option to weld, but I appreciate your reply.
 
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