The electric clutch may be shorted internally. Volt meter - continuity tester time.
You are correct with that assumption.But… if both wires to the clutch were disconnected, how could a clutch short blow the fuse?
Thank you! I’ve read elsewhere that if there is a diode inline (which there is) it’s possible to reverse the wiring. Regardless, since I’ve disconnected it and it still blows a fuse, it’s not that.You are correct with that assumption.
I would disconnect the connector from the clutch switch and turn the ignition on to see if the fuse blows again, if not, then the 12/13 volt hot wire from the clutch switch to the clutch has a short and you could either trace that wire through and see if there is a chassis rub along the way, or you could run a new supply wire to your clutch from the switch and bypass the original hot wire.
It doesn't really matter which way you wire the clutch, one wire is hot and the other is an earth that runs back into the system, the clutch pack has a winding that feeds in one way and out the other.
Hi Fred - thanks and sorry for the late reply. There is a red wire, and a black + bare that go to the clutch. I will look over the harness for chafed wires.Do you have a red wire that goes to the clutch?, the black wire goes to earth, black/white wire is engine kill if the clutch/brake is not locked, not sitting in the seat and the PTO clutch is on.
The only major power goes to the PTO clutch, so I would be looking for a chafe in the cable to the PTO clutch that is going to ground and that will cause the fuse to blow, the only other voltage goes to the fuel shutoff solenoid and if that is shorted, then the fuse should blow as soon as you turn the ignition on.
I wouldn't be replacing the PTO switch until I checked the wiring to the clutch and if that is ok, then the problem falls back onto the PTO switch, could have an internal short.
Is it possible to rotate the 9 pin connector that fits the PTO switch, or is this one way only??.
DBHThere is a red wire, and a black + bare that go to the clutch. I will look over the harness for chafed wires.
See attached pic - there was an uninsulated wire in the same jacket as the red, but terminated with the black. When I re-wired it, I twisted the bare wire + black together.DBH
Can I ask what does "black + bare" mean please ?.
In your photo I can see the red/black and what looks to be a white wire, but no bare wire.See attached pic - there was an uninsulated wire in the same jacket as the red, but terminated with the black. When I re-wired it, I twisted the bare wire + black together.
Hi Fred - you are correct. It's white. For some reason I recalled it being bare, but I see now it was a thinner gauge white. Yes, it's from the harness to the PTO. I have no idea why it's there, but that was a factory connection.In your photo I can see the red/black and what looks to be a white wire, but no bare wire.
Is that the connector to the PTO clutch in your photo?, if it is, I am not sure why the white wire would be there when this is the start wire from the ignition switch, and seeing that you have this connected to the black, then this could be your short mate, you will need to trace out that white wire and see where it goes to.
I have attached the wiring diagram for you to have a look at, don't be put off by it, there is the start and run circuit and then there is the safety circuit and they work in conjunction with each other, the main wiring is red for hot, black for ground or earthing, white for start through the brake/clutch sensor and on to the start solenoid, and a black/white wire that is the mag kill wire.
Lets see how you get on with your problem.
View attachment 75535