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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone ever done this? I purchased a toro 223D from a newly widowed woman. Her husband had swapped the Kubota diesel for a 3 cylinder gas engine out of a geo metro. The engine had a throttle body which he removed and retro fit with a carburetor. The thing I can’t figure out is the ignition. It looks like he was going to use an old coil from another tractor based on the box of parts she said we’re his ‘mower pieces.’ I’m a self taught lousy mechanic and the electrical stuff is where I really fall flat lol. Anyone got any ideas on how this could be done?
 

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Is this what the engine looks like?, I can see it has coil ignition and a dissy, you will need to mount the coil in a suitable position and basically run a hot wire from the run position on the ignition switch to the positive connection on the coil and run another wire from the negative pole on the coil to the distributor, you will need to find out if the voltage is 12 volts before applying voltage to the coil, these ECU controlled engines had a lot of 5 volts running around the engine bay, I have a Daewoo Lanos that I could check in the morning for voltage at the distributor, if all is well, basically it should work, the starter will require a hot wire from the ignition switch,(the original hot wire) and not sure about the alternator, would need to know how many wires this has, and again, a lot of alternators had the regulation controlled by the ECU as well, so this could be the case of this one too, hopefully this wont be a problem for you.

Another thing you will have to watch out for is this runs a toothed timing belt, the life on most is 4 years, my Daewoo is 6 years, so not sure of the life on the 3 cylinder engine you have, I would be inclined to replace the belt soon so you would have a dating, if the belt breaks, then the engine is kaput!!, bent valves and damaged piston crowns.
 

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Those Toro Groundsmaster are some serious mowers. I sold a couple when I was working for the City of Atlanta selling their surplus equipment on-line. They were the 5900D's.... 6' main deck and two 6' batwings. All three decks were hydraulically driven.

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View attachment 75426

Is this what the engine looks like?, I can see it has coil ignition and a dissy, you will need to mount the coil in a suitable position and basically run a hot wire from the run position on the ignition switch to the positive connection on the coil and run another wire from the negative pole on the coil to the distributor, you will need to find out if the voltage is 12 volts before applying voltage to the coil, these ECU controlled engines had a lot of 5 volts running around the engine bay, I have a Daewoo Lanos that I could check in the morning for voltage at the distributor, if all is well, basically it should work, the starter will require a hot wire from the ignition switch,(the original hot wire) and not sure about the alternator, would need to know how many wires this has, and again, a lot of alternators had the regulation controlled by the ECU as well, so this could be the case of this one too, hopefully this wont be a problem for you.

Another thing you will have to watch out for is this runs a toothed timing belt, the life on most is 4 years, my Daewoo is 6 years, so not sure of the life on the 3 cylinder engine you have, I would be inclined to replace the belt soon so you would have a dating, if the belt breaks, then the engine is kaput!!, bent valves and damaged piston crowns.
Can't help you with the voltage to the coil, the Daewoo has a multi wire connector to a coil pack, so no distributor, and this will be ECU controlled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Can't help you with the voltage to the coil, the Daewoo has a multi wire connector to a coil pack, so no distributor, and this will be ECU controlled.
sorry I got busy with work and just getting back to this project. Yes that’s the set up I have Not sure what coil is on yours but mine has the original transistor coil from the mower. The alternator has three wires. The big one coming from the starter and two smaller ones that I’m not sure where they go.
The old man who built it kept some of the wiring from the metro engine and then gorilla’d some of the rest. The instrument panel has a tach, rpm, vacuum, and fuel gauge. The switch is a universal four post. The complete drivetrain includes the engine (water cooled) with PTO and centrifugal clutch coming off the front, and a single hydrostatic drive axle. Steering is hydraulic linkage on the rear wheels. So far I’ve got power to the fuel pump, starter motor, and coil (all in working condition) where I’m comm m inv up short is getting the spark to the distributor and trying to figure out where the two smaller wires coming from the alternator would tie in View attachment 75872





View attachment 75872
Those Toro Groundsmaster are some serious mowers. I sold a couple when I was working for the City of Atlanta selling their surplus equipment on-line. They were the 5900D's.... 6' main deck and two 6' batwings. All three decks were hydraulically driven.

View attachment 75429
Lol mines about 20 years older than that one, if not 30. But you’re right. The groundsmasters have always been real deal commercial machines View attachment 75872 View attachment 75872
Can't help you with the voltage to the coil, the Daewoo has a multi wire connector to a coil pack, so no distributor, and this will be ECU controlled.
These are pictures from when I first Brought it home. Will try and get some new ones showing what I’ve done since then in a day or two View attachment 75872 View attachment 75872 View attachment 75872 View attachment 75872
 

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Benjamin, I cannot open your attachments, might be my computer, maybe others can open them.

Would you be able to tell us what make the alternator is please and this can be checked out for wiring.
 

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The photos have attached, the carby has an electric choke near the top and there is a fuel cut off solenoid at the bottom, you will need to check to see if the solenoid works, otherwise the engine wont get fuel, not sure about that ignition coil, I don't believe it is original for the engine if you have a look at the photo I attached, I would use the standard 12 volt coil in your setup, much easier to wire in, I need to find a wiring diagram for the car model, the alternator will have to be checked out to see if this has a built in rectifier/regulator or needs an external regulator, and the 3 wire could be Battery, field and earth, lets see what turns up.

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Best I can do of a basic diagram for the metro, it is a shame the bloke didn't keep the ECU and associated wiring for this engine, would have been so much easier.

Your problem is getting the #3 signal rotor to impulse the #4 pickup coil, because this system is ECU controlled, the voltage will be approximately 5 volts, then there is #9, #8, and #6 before you get to the coil, back in the early 80's we could buy an CDI ignition pack, you removed the points and condenser and in their place you fitted a trigger unit onto the distributor shaft and a pickup coil on the cam plate in the distributor and this fired the coil, worked great.

Without the ECU, there nothing to control the advance retard of the timing, the anti knock sensor and associated sensors.

Maybe an electronics engineer on this forum may pass on some advise to you on how to wire the ignition system, otherwise you will have to start learning basic electronics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok thanks. I decided to yea e all the wires to see where he had them going. Got that done the other day. I was Already thinking about finding a basic coil to start the ignition process so I’m glad you brought that up.
 

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Your problem will be to get the signal rotor to trigger the pickup coil in the distributor, this will be 5 volts supply max, the ignition coil will require 12 volts, I don't think you will find a triggering device that will fit the requirements, maybe you could find an earlier distributor from a 3 cylinder Suzuki that used points and condenser that may well fit the existing distributor drive, if that was possible, then you would have advance/retard of the timing built in and this would do away with the sensors that I mentioned.

Short of an Electronics person to help you, an older 3 cylinder distributor will be the only way to go.

Good luck, I surely hope you get a win on this mod.
 
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