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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there an easy way to tell what sleaves are in my N engine? It is a real early 8N so I know it should have the thin ones, but some one has been in the motor before, so they may have been changed.

Also is there a way to remove the sleaves with out the special tools they list in the manual? Cost is a factor, so I would rather do as much of the motor work myself. My labor is free, the michane shops isnt.:D :D

Also, If I do have the thin sleaves,[and I THINK thats the case] any advantage to booring the block for the thick sleaves? Agean, wile I do want to do this right, cost is a factor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here is a shot from the lower end....

<img src=http://www.tractorforum.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=80420>


it looks like to me they are the thin ones, but I have never seen the thick ones, so I dont know.
 

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Paul, those look like the thin sleeves but I would measure, just to make sure. The advantage of the .090 sleeves is they are cast iron, for better wear.

If those are the thin steel sleeves run a weld bead down the length and it will contract enough to fall right out. With the steel sleeves you can also pry them out but you have to be VERY carefull to not score the block.

As for true advantages of thick over thin sleeves, it's hard to tell. The thicker sleeves were meant to help with heat control along with longer wear. I have seen motors with both thin and thinck still running after 50 years. I would go with the cast iron cuz I like cast iron, if you go with the steel you have made no mistake.

That sleeve looks pretty good, do they even need changed? I would since I was there but you know the saying, if it aint broke...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well they are pretty pitted, and I posted a picture in my other thred that some have a pretty good ridge on the bottom of the bore. Plus the fact that she was a BAD oil burner, I dont want to risk it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the tip on the weld bead PS!! I assume a nice cold weld with little penatration.:D Knowing my luck, I will weld the darn things right to the block:eek: :eek:


I will give that a shot, after I clean the block up alittle. I also read in the manual that that is how the valve seats come out also. I have not gotted a good lock, but I assume I will need to change a few of them also.


Thanks for your help!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Now as long as all goes well with the removel, any tips on reinstalling the new sleaves? I see they list a special driver to install them in the manual, but of corse I dont have one. Anyother ideas on installing them? Should I just have a shop do it?

I was thinking of making some kind of a driver that fits in the sleave, maybe using some old pistons, and a steel plate or something. Then freezing the sleaves, and heating the block a bit to get them to slip in. What do you all think? Think it will work?
 

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This person made a drive tool ]drive tool[/URL] that works very well. I have heard of people freezing the sleeve and heating the block and everything sliding together just fine. A shop should only charge you $50 or so, I personnally would go that route. It doesn't take much to screw up a sleeve.
 

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sleeves

its hard too judge looking at the pic but they look like the thick-
wall type if so without a arbor they are hard to get out. there a guy on ebay that makes a arbor and ive seen them go for 50$
it will remove thick-wall and install both.to remove the thin-wall ones all i do is drive a roundnose butter knife from the bottom up between the sleeve and block,it cuts the sleeve like butter doesnt
even scratch the block.it takes me about ten min. to do all 4. ive done it this way 7 or 8 times no problems yet.if near delaware ill loan my arbor. to install either i put the arbor in the freezer for a day first then chill the sleeves to.when driving the sleeve home youll hear the differance when its seated.

the opinions, comments, and advice offered by me here are mine alone.
As such, they carry as much weight as a feather in a snow storm.


late 8n highwheel with sherman comb. tranny
allis chambers G
to 30
to 20
farmell super a
 

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other thread

there was no reply box on your other thead so ill post this advice here.
i would advice you to get new head bolts they are $2.50 at
n-complete and im sure others carry them.
good pics there.

the opinions, comments, and advice offered by me here are mine alone.
As such, they carry as much weight as a feather in a snow storm.
 

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lol yes

e opinions, comments, and advice offered by me here are mine alone.
As such, they carry as much weight as a feather in a snow storm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Good advice about the bolts. It has studs now, and I was thinking of replacing them. Defently replacing the nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well had a good look at it, and they sure looked like the thin ones to me. Started to try to crush them, and SNAP a chunk came off. Seems like they are cast iron. Did they have a case thin sleve?

Also I tryed the weld thing, but did not work. Still holding fast.
 

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I've done sleeves before, not on that particular engine but on others. Freezing the sleeve and heating the block works like a charm. It helps if you have someone that can run and get the sleeve out of the freezer when you have the block good and hot. I find that you can usually get them most of the way by giving them a quick spin when you first set them in, then get your hammer and installer and drive it home. The faster you work, the easier it goes.
 

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wall thickness

have you got a 0-1 mike ? trhey sure look like the thick ones to me ive never had one chip and i pulled down a n yesterday that i just checked [thinwall] the sleeves look like paper compared to your pics.
when do with the job im doing[ end of week if you get up with me ill loan lol mind loan you my arbors. [email protected]
the opinions, comments, and advice offered by me here are mine alone.
As such, they carry as much weight as a feather in a snow storm.
 
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