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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have any advice on how best to use both the dozer blade and mower, either how to swap them easily or keep them both installed at the same time?

I want to use both on an almost daily basis, and after taking the dozer off and putting the mower on for the first time, I realized it's quite a lengthy operation. Maybe if I get easier to use cotter pins it'll go faster, as I had to hammer some of them to get them in/out. Also, I had a lot of trouble getting the "H" bracket for the mower reattached to the front of the tractor, it seemed a bit out of alignment and I didn't have any 3/4" sockets/wrenches to adjust.

Maybe I'm just installing the mower deck incorrectly. Do I really have to sit in front of the tractor, put my feet on the mower deck, grab the front of the tractor, and p-u-s-h to tighten the belt and get the cotter pin bolts to line up? I had to use a crowbar on the "H" bracket in the front.

As for mounting both at the same time, much of the mounting of the dozer blade seems to interfere with that of the mower. Not just the lift mechanism (which I suppose I could cut off), but also where it mounts to the front of the tractor. I've been tinkering with the idea of not using the lift mechanism at all, and replacing with a winch or something, as it's a pain to lift the dozer blade frequently. Anyone figure out how to mount both at the same time?

Boy, after thinking about going through this operation each day, I actually thought it might be easier to buy two tractors, one to mow and one to doze with! Maybe it'll get easier with time (as I get better at it), but I'm hoping someone out there has figured out some tricks of the trade.

Thoughts? Thanks!
 

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Originally posted by Realist
Anyone have any advice on how best to use both the dozer blade and mower, either how to swap them easily or keep them both installed at the same time?

I want to use both on an almost daily basis, and after taking the dozer off and putting the mower on for the first time, I realized it's quite a lengthy operation. Maybe if I get easier to use cotter pins it'll go faster, as I had to hammer some of them to get them in/out. Also, I had a lot of trouble getting the "H" bracket for the mower reattached to the front of the tractor, it seemed a bit out of alignment and I didn't have any 3/4" sockets/wrenches to adjust.

Maybe I'm just installing the mower deck incorrectly. Do I really have to sit in front of the tractor, put my feet on the mower deck, grab the front of the tractor, and p-u-s-h to tighten the belt and get the cotter pin bolts to line up? I had to use a crowbar on the "H" bracket in the front.

As for mounting both at the same time, much of the mounting of the dozer blade seems to interfere with that of the mower. Not just the lift mechanism (which I suppose I could cut off), but also where it mounts to the front of the tractor. I've been tinkering with the idea of not using the lift mechanism at all, and replacing with a winch or something, as it's a pain to lift the dozer blade frequently. Anyone figure out how to mount both at the same time?

Boy, after thinking about going through this operation each day, I actually thought it might be easier to buy two tractors, one to mow and one to doze with! Maybe it'll get easier with time (as I get better at it), but I'm hoping someone out there has figured out some tricks of the trade.

Thoughts? Thanks!
No you don't need to sit and pull like your doing. Slide the mower deck under the tractor, slide to front or rear so you can attach belt easily. Attach belt, install pins in hanger bracket that is closest. Slide mower deck to opposite end and attach pins. You should have a slight resistance as the idler arm tightens on the belt, but nothing like what your describing.
 

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Also, you might consider ordering and installing the lever and the link(and hardware) that sits on top of the left side of the deck. Some of the other Sears models come with this feature, the lever is used for removing the tension on the belt. It's really handy when you're removing and installing the deck.
My GTH2548 came with this lever. Also, I have to wonder if my Johnny Bucket(which doesn't interfere with the mowing deck) will serve also as a front blade.
 

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I think you should consider GT5000’s suggestion of
using the back blade and sleeve hitch. I have the dozer
blade and I’ll bet the back blade works a lot better in dirt.

But my first choice would be getting another tractor and
setting one up for mowing, one with a blade, one with FEL,
one with a blower, one with ……..
:partydanc
 

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aegt5000 you have one for each different job:D I'm still waiting on pictures of your Bolens.
Jody
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, everyone! Yes, I think the rear scraper blade or box blade may be the ticket, even though it'll cost me another $100 for the sleeve hitch and $150 or so for the box blade. Then I'll just use the dozer blade for snow when I won't have to mow.

I get the feeling that I'm going to have to buy and try out every implement before I find that right combination that works. I suppose there may be a Johnny Bucket in my future... :)
 

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Originally posted by Realist
Thanks, everyone! Yes, I think the rear scraper blade or box blade may be the ticket, even though it'll cost me another $100 for the sleeve hitch and $150 or so for the box blade. Then I'll just use the dozer blade for snow when I won't have to mow.

I get the feeling that I'm going to have to buy and try out every implement before I find that right combination that works. I suppose there may be a Johnny Bucket in my future... :)
Keep in mind you can find sleeve hitch implements releatively cheap in your local paper.

As for the Johnny Bucket....I haven't heard any thing negative from the guys who own them, so they must be doing what they were touted to do.
 

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Realist Here is a Front blade that can be mouinted on your tractor at the same time as the mowing deck it is made by bercomac. www.bercomac.com
 

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For $552 list price on a bercomac blade for craftsman, take aegt5000's advice and buy an older tractor with blade, if you really want a front blade. An older bolens tubeframe would be an excellent choice and can be had in running condition with maybe a deck and dozer blade for $500 or less.
 
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