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I don't get it. The switch you show above will not fit the openings.
The hole in your panel is 24 mm x 43 mm.
The frame on the switch is 25.91 mm x 50.04 mm
The recommended (minimum) hole for the switch is 22 mm x 44 mm.

If you find that the switch is too long, there is just 1 mm on the short edge of the panel to file away.
If you find that the switch will move sideways in a disturbingly manner, add some tape to the longer sides.

One thing that came to mind; Check the dimensions of the frame on the switch you choose, to be sure that there will be room to arrange them like the old ones.
 

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Please don't take this the wrong way but switches would be my last concern. Picture shown was upside down so here it is.
As others mentioned I'd get replacement panel or fabricate one. That one isn't worth salvaging.
Gas Machine Audio equipment Auto part Bumper


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Kubota B7100, Hanix N150_2
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Assuming I get some switches, the only thing not functional in this panel is the fuel gauge. Not a big deal, my Kubota, my Turf Truck, my TW200, and my Rhino all lack fuel gauges.
Removing the broken plastic might take 10 minutes, re-polishing the surface could take 5 mins or an hour depending on damage depth & material.
Making a new plastic cover might take 20-30 mins.
My stuff has to be functional primarily, pretty secondarily.
Replacement parts are almost non existent in England, and are non existence in this country.
If you saw the whole machine in person, you would realize I am not going for a restoration,
just trying to get things functional so I can dig holes.

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It is impossible to follow you when you edit and alter your posts.

But you directed him to a certain product. You read the dimensions for the frame and took that as the dimensions for the hole, no adapter mentioned. We all make mistakes, most of us learn from them.

This forum used to be a friendly place, not so much anymore.
The PDF I catalog provided is full of various size switches. As friendly gesture, why don't you take the time to provide the correct part #, so I can learn from it?
 

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The PDF I catalog provided is full of various size switches. As friendly gesture, why don't you take the time to provide the correct part #, so I can learn from it?
I am not sure what part number you want, the switch I suggested is the one you see in the Digi-Key link in post #5. There are part numbers, details and datasheet already provided.

Firefox returns a security alert when I try to download the PDF you linked to, so I pass on that.
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Assuming I get some switches, the only thing not functional in this panel is the fuel gauge. Not a big deal, my Kubota, my Turf Truck, my TW200, and my Rhino all lack fuel gauges.
Removing the broken plastic might take 10 minutes, re-polishing the surface could take 5 mins or an hour depending on damage depth & material.
Making a new plastic cover might take 20-30 mins.
My stuff has to be functional primarily, pretty secondarily.
Replacement parts are almost non existent in England, and are non existence in this country.
If you saw the whole machine in person, you would realize I am not going for a restoration,
just trying to get things functional so I can dig holes.

View attachment 76681
View attachment 76682
I believe the fastest, easiest, least expensive then would be two SPST toggle switches, each with two rectangular "washers".

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Quite possibly. Easier to make "rectangular washers" than most of the other options. :)
What I'd do...pardon my sketch.
I'd get scrap metal, 1 1/4" wide 1/8" thick aluminum (wider & longer than hole). Hold a piece behind hole, scribe with awl or nail. Cut along line. Now you have a piece that snugly fits hole. Cut another, then four more larger, large as possible. Drill holes in all for toggle switch (1/2" probably). Assemble as shown, smaller one with red arrow in middle. Tighten nut. Toggle switch won't move, red arrow one makes it snug.
Toggle switches are available everywhere.
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I'm sure I have some on hand.
I'm pretty sure I have some rocker switches like the pic below left over from a dash I built for my Rhino years ago.
Nor sure of the size or how many, but I will check on those before I commit to a course of action.
Speedometer Trip computer Gauge Motor vehicle Steering wheel
Speedometer Trip computer Gauge Motor vehicle Steering wheel
 

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24mm-22mm-2mm, or .07874
Average thickness of electrical tape is .005-.007.
That means 5-6 layers on each side. I would choose a thicker tape, though. If you add a little longer/wider piece on top of each layer, you will get a tapered profile that will be easy to install/remove.

If there is space enough, you could enlargen the holes and use the LMS mounting panel.
 

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I am not sure what part number you want, the switch I suggested is the one you see in the Digi-Key link in post #5. There are part numbers, details and datasheet already provided.

Firefox returns a security alert when I try to download the PDF you linked to, so I pass on that.
View attachment 76685
That's OK Bud.... Just a mind test to see if you would actually take the time needed to look up a CH part #, or if you're just wanting to play "I'm right and you're wrong". I'm sure that same Cole-Hersee Catalog PDF is available for secure download all over the internet, but a 2 minute delay in the search process completely derails your efforts at a "friendly gesture". I have the real answer I was wanting..... Thanks for sharing that with me;)
 

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That's OK Bud.... Just a mind test to see if you would actually take the time needed to look up a CH part #, or if you're just wanting to play "I'm right and you're wrong". I'm sure that same Cole-Hersee Catalog PDF is available for secure download all over the internet, but a 2 minute delay in the search process completely derails your efforts at a "friendly gesture". I have the real answer I was wanting..... Thanks for sharing that with me;)
I cannot give you a Cole Hersee part number for a switch that is of the Carling brand. It is not a question of being friendly or not, it is a fact you have to deal with.

I am not familiar with the American brands, but it seems like both Carling and Cole Hersee are under Littlefuse today, but their products are separate and they use their own old numbers for the time being.
 

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How about cutting a few strips of tin and riveting them to the dash to make the holes the proper size, then you can buy switches anywhere you like..... Get a rattle can of black paint to spruce up the modifications.
 

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How about cutting a few strips of tin and riveting them to the dash to make the holes the proper size, then you can buy switches anywhere you like..... Get a rattle can of black paint to spruce up the modifications.
Here's a cheap solution for replacing the whole plate he could fabricate with a sharp utility knife and you don't even need the rattle can touch up.....

ABS Plastic Sheet
 

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And it wouldn't chip peel or rust! I wonder how it would hold up to the jarring and banging of the machine?
I've used that stuff on several projects lately and I'm really starting to like it. You can take a heat gun and bend/mold it into about any shape you want/need. I used it a couple of weeks ago to repair some busted up/missing sections of the plastic fenders on an ATV. Came out really solid and looked way better than anything else I've ever tried to use on that particular repair job. You can get it in 1/4" also, it's just more pricey.
 
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