The GT5000 sales guy left me a bit confused on the front snow blade, front dozer blade, and rear grader blade. He said the snow blade and dozer blade are different (though they sure look the same in the catalog) and implied the dozer blade was heavier duty (he didn't differentiate between the blade and the mounting system). If so, why does Sears sell both blades? Is it because the snow blade is for both lawn/garden tractors but the dozer blade is only for garden tractors? The sales guy said if I tried to use the snow blade to move dirt/gravel, I would end up bending the frame where the snow blade attaches, which implies that the mounting differs between the two. Also, I'm getting differing opinions on whether the front dozer blade can be used at the same time as the mowing deck, because apparently they use the same lift mechanism? Seems like people would want to be able to use both. I'd hate to have to remove the mowing deck each time I want to use the dozer blade. Finally, people tell me a rear-pulled grader blade (or box scraper, for that matter) has more power than a front-pushed dozer blade. If so, wouldn't it be better to use the rear grader blade for deep snow, say, 12" deep? Or would this not work because then the tractor itself would not get enough traction in the unplowed snow? I was debating between the GT5000 and the DYT4000, but ever since I found that the front and rear mounting systems are different on the garden tractors from the lawn tractors, I decided I should pay the extra and go for the GT5000. Plus, there's the future Johnny Dump. Can anyone help clarify? Thanks!
Realist I have a 2000 craftsman Gt 22hp kohler. very similar to the GT5000 and I have all the attachments you mentioned. The only front blade for the GT series is the snow/dozer blade and yes it shares the lift with the deck so you can't use both at the same time. The first time you mount the front blade will take a while as there are some brackets that need to bolted on the frame rails. As for the rear grader blade, the only problem I've had with it is that's it's kinda light and there isn't any way to weigh it down so it floats over hard soil. If you break the ground with a tiller or moldboard plow/ disc combination first it works well. Moving a light snowfall less than 6" is ok but the blade is narrow and you must work in reverse. I've done it once or twice as it snowed before I mounted the front blade. The box scraper is pretty much the same but you would need to remove the teeth and sides. When using the front blade you must keep up with any heavier snowfall or soon find yourself having a hard time trying to clear it all at once. Because of this I got the blower and then added the snowcab to stay dry. Traction is the issue with these as I find them to be light in the rear. I would get the GT over the DYT as there are many more attachments available and not much difference in price, once you have one you'll always find something else you want to do,it's nice to know you have options. The deck really isn't all that hard to remove/install only a belt and maybe 4 or 5 cotters. The snow blade is easier after all the brackets have been mounted, they can stay on so only the first time takes a while.
realist ck my post under are super lugs worth it page 2, jody down sized my picture to show the box blade, i removed the tines so i could back up to my other garage door to pull snow forward then. use the front blade to continue. i mounted an atv winch on the rear to raise the blade, also mounted a a 20 year old snow blade to the front, all seperated from the craftsman lift so i dont have to remove the deck each time, except deep snow fall. i will try to post a couple more pictures so you can get the idea.
realist, here is an overall shot i hope, the old front blade is for snowplowing and light grading it is independent from the mower deck lift. i wish sixchows would find a green cab and send me his red one. good luck.
tjw I think sears made it red for visibilty since the tractor is dark green now that the tractors are red they make it black. Strange! Do you really leave your deck on in the winter? Seems like the snow would age it faster.
realist, here is an overall shot i hope, the old front blade is for snowplowing and light grading it is independent from the mower deck lift. i wish sixchows would find a green cab and send me his red one. good luck.
sixchows that was an early november picture, the mower deck was removed so it wouldnt drag in the snow later on in the season, however i leave the deck on in the summer and scrape the gravel drive and the road frontage. i still like your cab, just wish we had more snowfall to justify the expense.
Realist… I have the Snow/Dozer blade for the GT. It works well on snow but I have never used it for moving dirt so I would refer you to the posts made by “sixchows” and “tjw in kans”. Yes the plow and deck use the same lift arm and can’t be used at the same time. My experience is it takes about 5 min to remove the deck and about 15 min to put it back on and recheck the level. I don’t remove the deck too often during the mowing season but if you had to do it a dozen times I think it would be a real pain. If that was the case you could consider using a winch for the plow and keeping both mounted. I made a winch setup for my plow because it made it easier to use with my snow cab, you could use the same set-up and keep the deck on. <img src=http://hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=3cee6a72-76ad-5398-2624-35d9435f3a7a&size=lg>
Realist… Welcome, I have a dozer blade on a gt5000. It is a good setup for moving snow. If you live in the north and get snow all the time, I recomend getting a snow blower. The sears snow blade is light duty and will only fit smaller lawn tractors. If you got a sears garden tractor the dozer blade is the ticket. <img src=http://www.hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=68c77569-7543-4714-24bd-2a9b133839e9&size=>
I love these pictures. I gotta ask: those wheel weights on the tjw in kans tractor, are they the Sears 26234? Out here in San Antone I never get to see any of them. These look big(heavy), and I like the black color with the little red hubcap. What brand are they?
Realist The responders have given some good information but haven’t yet directly answered your questions. I’ll try to address the questions you asked in the order you asked them: “He said the snow blade and dozer blade are different (though they sure look the same in the catalog) and implied the dozer blade was heavier duty (he didn't differentiate between the blade and the mounting system). If so, why does Sears sell both blades?” GT and DGT models have much stronger transaxles than the LT/YT/DYT models, and can handle ground engaging equipment like a dozer blade. But the lighter tractors are able to push light loads like snow so Sears sells a blade specifically for pushing snow for the LT/YT/DYT. The major difference between a dozer blade and a snow blade is a snow blade as trip springs that will cause the blade to rotate backwards if it pushes too hard, sort a pressure relief system. Dozer blades allow the blade to be locked into position; on Sears’ dozer blade two substantial bolts are used to lock the blade. The two types of blades are also attached to the tractor frames differently. “Also, I'm getting differing opinions on whether the front dozer blade can be used at the same time as the mowing deck, because apparently they use the same lift mechanism?” As has already been said the dozer blade lift is attached at the same point the mower deck lift is so they cannot be connected at the same time. To connect both you would have to cut 8” or more off of the dozer’s main beam since it extends back under the tractor to where the mower deck is mounted, and create a different lift system for the dozer blade. It takes me about 20 minutes to switch between mower and dozer blade. But even if I could mount both at once I would still remove the deck when I use the dozer blade (or any of my sleeve hitch implements for that matter). The mower deck lowers the tractors ground clearance, makes me have to pay more attention to the sides of the tractor so I don’t rip off the grass deflector or damage the deck by hitting something hard and it can collect loose dirt or snow. “Finally, people tell me a rear-pulled grader blade (or box scraper, for that matter) has more power than a front-pushed dozer blade. If so, wouldn't it be better to use the rear grader blade for deep snow, say, 12" deep? Or would this not work because then the tractor itself would not get enough traction in the unplowed snow?” The tractor applies the same amount of force weather its pushing or pulling a load. You are correct about the tractor could not pull the snow forward because it would be driving on unplowed snow. You can use the rear blade for snow, but you would have to push it backwards. I find it painful on my back and neck to keep my eyes on the blade behind the tractor, but some guys can do it all day. The rear blade, and its closely related the box blade, are intended to spread and level things behind a tractor while the dozer blade is more useful in pushing thing into piles. Both can be used for either task, but not as efficiently. “I was debating between the GT5000 and the DYT4000, but ever since I found that the front and rear mounting systems are different on the garden tractors from the lawn tractors, I decided I should pay the extra and go for the GT5000.” Besides the optional sleeve hitch the GT also offers a stronger transaxle, which is very important if you plan on doing any thing that requires the tractor to displace dirt or stone. I agree with you the Johnny Bucket is another good reason to go a GT, I have to wait another month before I will have saved enough allowance to buy one without resorting to pleading with my CFO What jobs do you want to use the blade for? The dozer blade will easily handle the typical snows we get in northern VA, though on the bigger storm you may have to plow three or four times while its still falling. It would also be just the ticket to clear out blackberry thickets and other areas of heavy over growth. A box blade (most are convertible to a rear blade) would be the tool of choice to grade loose soil, smooth a gravel drive or spread mulch on a large area.
Thanks for all the great info and pics especially! Some more questions: 1. Now that I understand that the front dozer blade and mowing deck share the same lift mechanism, does that mean I have to completely remove one or the other, or just disconnect the lift? Although sixchows says it isn't much work to remove/attach, I'm curious if it can be made even easier by simply disconnecting the lift mechanism. 2. tjw in kans, interesting idea to use the rear box blade to pull snow away from the garage. Couldn't you do the same with the front plow but driving in reverse? I didn't realize you could attach a winch on the rear mount, did you have to jury rig this or is it a standard configuration? Seems it is mutually exclusive with a sleeve hitch, right? Also, you said you mounted a 20-year old plow to the front. The Sears sales guy told me that the plows from various manufacturers are not interchangeable and that I have to buy the Craftsman plow only, is this true? 3. aegt5000, cool looking front winch for your plow. Where did you get the chrome mount with hitch? Did you make it? My understanding is that the front dozer blade mount is pretty hefty and attaches far back along the frame. I doubt I could make such a mount myself. Thanks!
I noticed in a post by scruff on 9-17-2003 (titled "My GT5000") that a Tractor Supply front blade can be mounted on a GT5000 without sharing the same lift mechanism as the mowing deck. This would allow both the mowing deck and front plow to be used at the same time. Does anyone know if this is possible? The Sears guy told me that only Sears attachments would work, which made sense to me, as the dozer blade has a mount that attaches along the frame, and I would think that each manufacturer's frame would be a different size/shape. Similarly, the Tractor Supply guy said that front attachments must be purchased by the manufacturer of the tractor, as they all mount differently. Ideas? Thanks!
realist here is a picture of the homemade bracket used to attach the 20 year old blade, probably only worth while if you have a cutting torch and welder and scrap iron pile to do something like this along with an old blade. only drilled 2 holes in the front and used existing holes along the frame. if i didnt already have the blade i would have gone for the heavy duty sears blade. just remember it aint a bulldozer. as for the rear sleeve hitch, i removed all of it but the drawbar that the attachments hook to and added the winch that just happened to fit on the rear plate and attached with 2 bolts. the mower deck lift lever wouldnt begin to lift the box scraper with 100 plus pounds of weight added to it plus i can leave the mower deck on while dragging my 3 gravel drives in the summer several times a month. also willie n., those are sears high priced wheel weights.
Realist… No chrome parts on my homemade plow winch set-up. The only “Shinny” part is the conveyer roller used to guide the wire. Also take another look at Jeffgt’s excellent post, he stated that the Sears dozer blade main channel extends 8” into the area where the deck would be so even if you used a winch you would have to modify the plow’s channel to make room for the deck. I agree with Jeff and would not want to use the plow with the deck mounted, it will just be in the way.
Jeffgt - Outstanding post! Thanks for taking the time to clearly answer my questions. It all makes sense now. (BTW, strangely, your post was able to leapfrog before mine, as I don't recall reading it while writing my posts, I wonder how that was able to happen.)
