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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Snapper won’t start no 12VDC at starter


I have tested the ignition switch w/ key on I have continuity to all wires from ground except the blue trigger wire.


When I turn the key to start I have continuity so I assume the switch is normal.this is a switched 12VDC.


When key is start position I get 12.7VDC at the back of ign.switch same as input of soliniod which is a direct connection from battery referrred to a constant power..
no voltage out of soliniod to starter.

so I extend a grey wire spliced to blue behind switch however when I connect to trigger spade 3rd terminal of soliniond voltage is reduced down from 12VDC to 2-5VDC fluctuates increasleing not past 5VDC.


I’m suspicious of the new soliniod functioning correctly.


Here’s a few image maybe I missed something.

additional my snapper came w/ a 3 terminal soliniod I replaced w/ a 4 terminal wear I scraped off paint to expose bare grounding framework.
Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Gas Cable Auto part
Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Gas Cable Auto part
Finger Pink Nail Eyewear Magenta
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Here is a picture showing a basic wiring:
https://isavetractors.com/product_images/uploaded_images/starter-solenoid.jpg
Let us call the four posts:

Battery
Starter
Switch
Ground

What is connected to the different posts on your solenoid?
yes youre image is exactly how I have it wired.

pogo bill I have tryed the trigger on either side of small terminals all the videos say they can be switched,

since I'm bypassing possiable bad sensors there must be something wrong w/ the new soliniod after very close observation I see the upper small triggers terminal isn't secure in the case it has a slite wobble another chinese part causing problems and wasting time.

couple weeks ago I adjusted the valves and got her up and running parked her for a few weeks now this no start.

I'm thinking my no start issue is a malfunctioning safety switch
will reinstall the old USA soliniod use new grey wire to bypass.

pogo I have the small ground terminal wired to soliniond mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
actually I have attempted jumping the the 2 big terminals even w/ the key start position no jump of votlage from solinoid in to soliniod out I thought something wasn't quite right.

edit when this soliniod clicks it's nurmerous not just one click.

after a couple hours I found the old soliniod will report back.thanks
 

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One last time--you have two separate systems for starting, there is the very simple engine start circuit --- from battery to switch and then to solenoid and then to starter, simple no sensors in the way of cranking the engine, if the circuit is continuous when the ignition key is switched to start position, the starter will crank the engine, simple and not much to check mate.

It has been written on how to do the very easy testing checks and it is not hard at all to do these, --- like hook a jumper to the +positive pole on the battery and with the other end touch the start tag on the solenoid, --- this will tell you if the solenoid is working, --- bridge across the two heavy poles on the solenoid and this will or should crank the starter, and this will show if the starter is ok and the solenoid is not, again simple.

Secondly --- the sensor system is separate from the start system, --- all this does is earths out the coil as a safety should the blades be engaged and the operator is not sitting on the seat, so forget the sensors while you are trying to fathom out the start system.

The chattering you are getting from the solenoid is from either a stuffed battery or a not so good earth in your system.---- have you replaced the battery yet ????.

And in the first and second photos, you have a very squashed red positive wire that goes to the fuse holder, may pay to check that also, there may be fractured wires inside the cable.

The best of luck in getting your Snapper started.
 

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actually I have attempted jumping the the 2 big terminals even w/ the key start position no jump of votlage from solinoid in to soliniod out I thought something wasn't quite right....
That result says nothing about the solenoid's status, but it says that eiher the wiring from battery to solenoid, or the wiring from solenoid to starter and back to battery, is bad. Or the battery is dead.

...edit when this soliniod clicks it's nurmerous not just one click....
That result indicates that not enough energy is fed to the solenoid coil. Bad wiring or dead battery.

Are you still testing with the solenoid coil connected through the key switch?
You have too many variables.
Remember that even if you measure the correct voltage at no load, it can drop dramatically when you put a load on. Bad wiring gives high resistance in series with your solenoid coil, and the voltage across the coil dives.
 

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Hey Brain,
Why is it you can sometimes type and compose your answers very fluently and with large adjectives, but still insert solenoid spelled incorrectly. And you don't follow advice.
Are you trying to sucker us old boys or take us for fools. Something stinks about your posts. I'm finished with this thread.
 

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Do you have a manual for your tractor? Here's an owners manual.
https://c.searspartsdirect.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0807733.pdf

You really need to go back and review all of the information that has been given to date. I'm sure if you do, and follow the advise given by the members, you will be successful in getting your tractor in running order. There are not a whole lot of parts between the key and the engine, and pretty much everything has already been covered, and your questions have been answered. In the mean time, you seem to refuse to either follow all of the steps in the advise that is given, or refuse to answer simple questions like "Did you get a new battery"! You said your old battery failed the load test at the shop, so unless you have replaced the unit, you are still going to have trouble. When you turn the key and hear the repeated clicking sound, it could be a good indication the that battery does not have enough power to start the tractor.... as mentioned above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
pogo yes I've had the owners manuel since the beginning.

I've put the old solenoid back on and redid the tempuary grey wire.

so now w/ the new battery ( I thought I mentioned as I also mentioned that I took 2 batterys to the auto store I was mistaken the bad battery was the tow vehicles not the snappers it just got a quickie charge never tested)
) there is 12.7VDC at trigger zero to starter. attempted jumping the 2 large terminals result nothing.must this jumping be done w/ key in start position, if yes this will require x amount of weight on the seat to close the circuit correct, like I can turn the key, hold the wire but this can't be done w/ me seated, need the seat weighted down.

I wasn't forcefull when attaching the trigger wire to the new solenoid these part must have been defective when purchased.will get replacement and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
cruised by lowes picked up a troy bilt solinod none of the terminals are labled wtf. I've tryed every concevable combonation

taking this crape back to lowes. could'nt even get this turd to click

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Troy-Bilt-...VBe21Ch3OSwJPEAQYASABEgIigfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

can't email troy bilt customer service is a bot (robot) put on hold for ten minutes dam I ready to punch someone.
I searched made a pissed off review now I have these a$$hole email [email protected]
privacy means they hate you and don't want to contact you unless it serves there agenda.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Lowes has a question forum like amazone so I'll wait for lowes customers to respond.
dam I was stupid to buy a unlabled soliniod.

since tb f-ed me over there getting a review.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Your refusal to consider any advise given by the members of this forum has now escalated into inappropriate dialogue, and personal attacks. We are all here to help each other and these sorts of comments will not be tolerated.
I will bypass the safetey w/ the grey wire again.

.

.

Secondly --- the sensor system is separate from the start system, --- all this does is earths out the coil as a safety should the blades be engaged and the operator is not sitting on the seat, so forget the sensors while you are trying to fathom out the start system.
this is bogus advice there's a safetey switch interferring w/ ignition. are you old boys suckering me.
I definity got better things to do than wastse time on old farts.
goto 8minute mark of video

at 15:42 he explains the 2 small terminals can either be the trigger or the ground, but never mentions which is soliniond in & out. is it possiable when I guessed since troy bilt provides no instructions I ruined the new soliniod?

can I bypass the SS w/ a single wire from ign.switchs blue wire it's the soliniods 12VDC trigger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
called the lawn mower shop asked about the brake switchs location also explained how I had to stand on the brake to get ignition.

now I know these cables require adjusting will watch this.

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Update: when mearsuring relaxed brake spring observed only ¼” from spring to end of black tube. I adjusted to the spec.s ¾” result she’s alive, starts, blade engages however when letting off clught she dies.


So now I know the ignition, seat switch wiring and starter works. Probably didn’t even need the solniod.


I thought I was adjusting the brake evidentially it’s both clught and brake.


So I readjusted reducing the tension, still no joy.

Currently Reduced to adjusting clught back where it was and hope it’s just the switch.


I believe the brake safety switch is referred to as the delta interlock switch this

https://www.jthomasparts.com/430-70...VmYzICh2VowsNEAQYBiABEgIKbPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


looked around the footlever no switch. There is a electrical switch in the aft. Of mower I circled it.

Will remove clean and test.


Also my intent is not to offend so hope none is taken.


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