[guest]

im putting up insulation in my garage and next will be sheetrock...


Home depot sells 3/8 sheetrock 2 sheets for 7.88 they also sell 1/2"

any reason not to go with the cheaper 3/8" stuff?

or is 1 thickness fore ceiling and one thickness for walls?

 

[Topdj]

3/8 is much better for ceilings, 1/2 inch for walls.
The only way I would use 3/8 for walls is 16" on center and Only if I was plastering over or it was a closet. Its just not tuff enough

 

[guest2]

sj
Not trying to run up the cost, but have you considered 5/8 fire code?

If you had a mishap it wouldn't burn as fast and would allow plenty of time to get the fire put out and save the shed.

 

[guest]

re 5/8th: did not see it.. ill check it out..

one more stupid question

should i do the ceiling 1st or after i do the walls? or does it not matter?

 

[gwill]

Put the 5/8" board on the ceiling first and then the 1/2" on the walls. 3/8" is only useful to laminate over existing drywall to make a new surface.

Gwill

 

[bontai Joe]

Gwill is 100% right.

 

[Argee]

Originally posted by gwill
Put the 5/8" board on the ceiling first and then the 1/2" on the walls. 3/8" is only useful to laminate over existing drywall to make a new surface.

Gwill

100% CORRECT....I might add, GLUE, any and all drywall as it will eliminate many nail pops.

 

[jodyand]

Use screws instead of nails they hold better.

 

[Archdean]

You just got good advice from all the posters....3/8th sheetrock has no legitament use in any thing I build!!
Dean

 

[guest2]

SJ
If you have any areas where moisture might be an issue use the green sheetrock. I would only use drywall screws to anchor it. You never know when you may need to replace a section. The glue will be added work to remove from the studs. I've never seen screws work their way loose.

 

[Chipmaker]

I would not put 3/8" sheetrock in my chicken house............yet alone my shop, garage or house.
Minimum of 1/2" and 5/8" is even better.
Go with the 12 foot sheets if you can get it, and run them horizontally. Adhesives and screws are the only way to attach it. Since your not gonna heat it all the time, just the humidity changes or shrnkage and swelling of dimensional lumber which affect the wood studs will start the nails to pop and pull in no time. The fiberglass tape is better also for the joints , and go easy on the application of mud, multiple thin coats are better than heavy coats......Usually two or three coats on joints is sufficient and makes for minimal sanding if applied right.

 

[guest2]

Chip has a good point about the joint compund, resist the temptation to load it on. It will take longer to dry and crack as it does.

One other I haven't seen mentioned is to stagger the joints so you don't have long seams running from board to board.

 

[bontai Joe]

The 3/8" sheetrock is great if you have to curve it inside an arch or something like that. Not much use for it otherwise.

 

[Deerehunter]

I think fire code states if the garage is attached to the house, 5/8 should be put up on the wall that separates the two.

 

[Archdean]

Originally posted by Deerehunter
I think fire code states if the garage is attached to the house, 5/8 should be put up on the wall that separates the two.

You are correct and if you have a gas applience in the garage it must be on the lid as well on the walls that contain the applience , boiler , hotwater heater etc.
Dean

 

[Ed_GT5000]

In a garage I would use durobond to mud the joints. Then leave it at that.

 

[Topdj]

if you have never instaledl wallboard before read this or if you think your rusty at it
http://literature.usg.com/pdf/J371.pdf

 

[guest]

thanks for the info guys.. and good document topdj.
im about done with the insulation and ceilings will be next...

ive got a lot of stuff hung from the ceiling (lights, garage runner brackets, outlets)
im kind of thinking it would be easier to use smaller peices of sheetrock (4*2) and cut out for these things so i can ensure accuracy..


thanks again for the info..

 

[guest2]

sj
Just keep in mind the smaller the sheets the more seams you'll have to tape.

 

[Topdj]

Originally posted by simple_john
thanks for the info guys.. and good document topdj.
im about done with the insulation and ceilings will be next...

ive got a lot of stuff hung from the ceiling (lights, garage runner brackets, outlets)
im kind of thinking it would be easier to use smaller peices of sheetrock (4*2) and cut out for these things so i can ensure accuracy..


thanks again for the info..

I know its too late to tell you this but I always find it easier to put the ceiling up first " if you have attic access" then to put the light boxes up. A lift for the rock helps a lot you can work by yourself.