shed doors

8933 Views 41 Replies 14 Participants Last post by bontai Joe, Jan 10, 2005

Ingersoll444

Discussion Starter · Nov 24, 2003

What do you all use for doors for your shed? After two years of not having any doors, it time to get going. I had started using barn boards for the doors, but wounder if there is a better way. Also any neat tricks for hinges, and latches you have come up with? BTW my door opening is 6 1/2' wide, and I was planing a 2/3-1/3 door sizing. That way, when you just have to walk in to grab something, you just have to open the smaller door, and not a 3'+ wide door.

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jodyand

· #2 · Nov 24, 2003

over head door

I have a 8' x 7' over head door on mine i like it and it didn't cost that much.
Jody

Martie

· #3 · Nov 24, 2003

Door? :question:

You have a door opening? :truth:

Like; in a wall?

I have a roof... one wall! ... And a couple of tarps!

You lucky dog, You! :thumbsup:

Ingersoll444

Discussion Starter · #4 · Nov 24, 2003

lol yup 4 walls. Just like the city foke.

leolav

· #5 · Nov 24, 2003

I have a overhead door at one end and a barn door at the other.

slipshod

· #6 · Nov 24, 2003

I build it

Then it seems like I fill it.3 shops and I have to stay alert just to keep a bay open in case I have to work on something.

slipshod

· #7 · Nov 24, 2003

Leo

I have one with an overhead door at one end and a barn door at the other. Great minds must think a like. Only problem is my boat is in the way to drive thru.

Argee

· #8 · Nov 24, 2003

Originally posted by Ingersoll444
What do you all use for doors for your shed? After two years of not having any doors, it time to get going. I had started using barn boards for the doors, but wounder if there is a better way. Also any neat tricks for hinges, and latches you have come up with? BTW my door opening is 6 1/2' wide, and I was planing a 2/3-1/3 door sizing. That way, when you just have to walk in to grab something, you just have to open the smaller door, and not a 3'+ wide door.

If I recall correctly, is this the shed where you put the siding vertically? If that's the case, tou could use T1-11 plywood and add some 1x4 crossbucks. Hang using those large strap hinges. Put a cable with a turnbuckle from the top hinge side diagonally to the opposite bottom side. This will assist when the larger door starts to sag from its own weight.

dougand3

· #9 · Nov 25, 2003

This was real cheap. Similar to what Argee described. Sided the framing and then cut the doors out and framed 2x4s. May need a short roof to divert rain...hasn't yet, but rain hasn't come at 45 deg towards the doors.

<img src="http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Sheddoors.jpg">

Martie

· #10 · Nov 25, 2003

Well, the rain is here now. I spent the day trying to figure how I could make my shed footprint bigger. My basement door opens onto a patio under my deck and that's where I'm putting the tractor/tool shed. I've been putting a roof UNDER the deck, but the deck support design was kind of limiting me on size. I was able to get to an 8' X 11' fairly easily, but today I figured out how to get it out to 13' X 11', maintain some headroom AND still keep the rain out... I hope! I'm 6'2" and I'm determined not to have to stoop in my shed! A sheet of T-111 has been the plan for the shed door all along. I'm planning to use that 6 or 8 mil clear plastic (as used on snowblower hoods) for transom windows along the top of the wall on the side that faces southeast and in the door (northwest facing). The wall sheathing will swing up and out from the top, the "windows" will swing in from the bottom and screening will stay in place on the framing. I only have one spare circuit breaker left to run power from, so there won't be a lot of work going on in this shed. I want to replace the 3'0" X 6'8" door in the house wall with a 4'0" door while I'm at it but the wall is poured concrete, not cinder blocks. Maybe I'll work on THAT project over the winter...from the inside....This door does NOT open into the shed, by the way, but onto the patio adjacent to it . Right now, with some disassembly I can bring the tractors into the basement to work on them but I don't want to keep them inside because they would take up too much room in my soon to be airplane factory. A bigger door would make moving them in to RESTORE and out to STORE easy.

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Merlin

· #11 · Nov 25, 2003

This is my temporary doors on my temporary shed.

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jodyand

· #12 · Nov 25, 2003

This is mine

This is my door on my shed it a 8'x7' overhead door:worm:
Jody

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Ingersoll444

Discussion Starter · #13 · Nov 25, 2003

Well, I realy don;t want to use t111 for the door. May go for the overhead though. Looks like a good idea. Will have to check out cost. May just stick with my first plan. It is V grove barn board. I hate to say it, but looks are important.[I am usley a fuction over form guy, but you look right at the door, or will there will be a door, when you look out the back windows] Well more thinking to do.

tisenberg

· #14 · Nov 25, 2003

I guess the only thing I would worry about is the overall construction of the doors. I would make sure that the cross members are firm and well attached so that the door did not warp. If double doors, I would also think about the way the connect together if you are going to lock them. Putting a pad lock in the middle is weak. I put rod hooks at the top and bottom of the swinging door that opens last. I used the rods that HD sells in their fence door hardware. They selll a rod that is shapped like an "L" and it is intended to be a interior lock for the bottom of the door. I put one at the top and bottom on the inside.

Martie

· #15 · Nov 25, 2003

Paul,
If you can post a picture of your shed, I'll bet you get some suggestions...angel

leolav

· #16 · Nov 25, 2003

It's funny you say that. I have the drive thru style, but something always has to be moved in order to actually drive through . Whether it is my boat, trim mower, weed wackers, chipper/shredder or a snow blower., something always has to get moved.

I wish I could be as organized as I used to be. Everyone always jokes with me that once my kids get older, I'll have bikes, wiffle ball bats, etc in the shed as well. I guess my organization will get worse before it gets better.

Ingersoll444

Discussion Starter · #17 · Nov 25, 2003

Originally posted by Martie
Paul,
If you can post a picture of your shed, I'll bet you get some suggestions...angel

Chipmaker

· #18 · Nov 26, 2003

My self I hate overhead doors unless they are rollup types. They always block off lights above them or access to the upper rafters if used for open storage, so I am always opening or closing them either for more light from the ceiling lights or access stuff in the rafters etc. A sliding door may work for you. Around here the local steel supplier sells a rollup door that is more than adequate for non commerical use. Its virtually rattle proof when down, and it takes up little in the way of overhead room above the door, and does not block off ceiling lighting, and no tracks hanging in the way either. My friend just bought one for his shed. Its 8' wide and 8' high and cost him $480.00 including tax. The panels on the door are also insulated with about 3/4" of foam with a plastic type of inside liner . Insulated doors in the south are almost a must as the sun turns them into one big giant heat sink and it will heat up a shed or garage pretty quick, fro the heat radiated off it.

Ingersoll444

Discussion Starter · #19 · Nov 30, 2003

Well, I have decided to stick with the vgrove barn board for the doors. I had some laying around, so I started making up a door. Looks nice, I do think I will need some cross bracing though. Figure once it is done, and squair, I will just bolt in a lenght of steel strapping. That should do the trick.

Martie

· #20 · Nov 30, 2003

That an RD stashed in the shed?

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