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Discussion Starter #1
ok, im swapping my gators for my oem blades but want to sharpen them 1st..

I have no grinder, but do have a vise..

i was going to try to use the sharpening attatchment for my dremil..
Ive had it for a year now but never used it..
has anyone else used one? or am i better off getting a file and hand sharpening them?
 

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I have gotten the best results with a really wide (2 inch) single cut file. The bench grinder gets the blade tip area too hot and ruins the temper of the steel even when I quench the blade in water after each pass on the bench grinder wheel. The file keeps the temperature low and the blade sharpness lasts longer in my opinion.
 

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Well if you have the sharpening attachment for the dremil try it first. If it don't work then try the file but if your blades are in bad shape use a bench grinder and then finish up with the file.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
stupid question.. do i get a regular file or a specific file for sharpening steel?

can i get a 2" file at sears?


i will probably give the dremil a whirl and see how it does..

do you get the blades razor sharp?
 

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Originally posted by parts man
I think all files are bastards, I use an angle grinder.:D
Show off! :furious: :furious:

I have the stone for my old dremil but the guide will not work with it due to it's age. It does a good job on the Deere mulching blades. The S wave in them is hard to do well with a file. It is slower than filing though. On the straight mower blades I prefer just a big file.

Mark
 

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LMAO...you guys are killin' me! You think you have it rough with the bastards, try some dykes. You'll be there all day. I mean they "chomp down" good, but definately do not understand what length is all about. I notice my dykes quite often while looking through my toolbox. I find that they are rarely used. All I have to say is "Dykes, thanks for nothing".

Anyway, this is an interesting subject for me. I am coming up on 25 hours on my LT, and am about to sharpen the blades for the 3rd time (every 8 hours). When given a file, a bastard it may be, I put my trust in electricity. If not the Dremel attachment, it's at least a Dremel with a grinding stone. Makes quick work of blades, but you would have to try awfully hard to heat an edge up enough to worry about temper.

I have found that both the tractor and walkbehind blades are easily maintained using a bench grinder and a Dremel. I start by making a few quick passes on the leading edge to kinda "square up" the blade, then use the Dremel to cut the angle. After sharpening the blades and deciding the very tip of the blade should be at a right angle, I then started doing the leading edge first.

I still have my Gator blades on (and have no reason to take them off), and with the Gator blades, I had to widen the slot in the Dremel attachment to accomodate the thickness of the blade. On the Toro blade, I have to keep downward pressure on the Dremel attachment from where it was widened, but it helps go over the "hump" on the "atomic" blade of the Toro. Both cut great, and I do not allow enough time between sharpening to see brown tips on the grass.

I also use a cone shaped balancer, in trust that they are much more accurate than hanging a blade from a nail driven into a 2"x4".

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The Dremel sharpener

<img src=http://universal.lowpriced.net/images/B00008Z9ZR.M.jpg>


i read in the manual about balancing the blade on a nail...
does that refer to the blade getting bent or warped? what are you supposed to do beat it back into shape with a hammer?
My manual just indicated 'put it on a nail to check that it is balanced...'
 

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Originally posted by simple_john
The Dremel sharpener

<img src=http://universal.lowpriced.net/images/B00008Z9ZR.M.jpg>


i read in the manual about balancing the blade on a nail...
does that refer to the blade getting bent or warped? what are you supposed to do beat it back into shape with a hammer?
My manual just indicated 'put it on a nail to check that it is balanced...'
I think that mainly refers to the difference in the amount of blade material on each end of the blade. For instance if the blade is heavier on the left side, you would file or grind more off on the right side.
 

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Originally posted by simple_john
The Dremel sharpener

<img src=http://universal.lowpriced.net/images/B00008Z9ZR.M.jpg>


i read in the manual about balancing the blade on a nail...
does that refer to the blade getting bent or warped? what are you supposed to do beat it back into shape with a hammer?
My manual just indicated 'put it on a nail to check that it is balanced...'
Once a blade has been bent or warped. It is no longer servicable and should be discarded.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Originally posted by MowHoward2210
I think that mainly refers to the difference in the amount of blade material on each end of the blade. For instance if the blade is heavier on the left side, you would file or grind more off on the right side.

thanks MHC.. what a dumb ass i am.. i was thinking you spin the blade on the nail and see how balanced it spun... like a fan...
 

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John...

Ya know your local hardware probably sharpens blades for a small fee...Just think...you'd be helping the local economy and not putting an eye out or severing a finger:D
 

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Discussion Starter #19
you guys...
Im trying to improve my mechanical skills... and now you're telling me to bring them somewhere?

Im hurt....:cry:
 
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