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Seafoam vs Chemtool B12

1977 Views 49 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Bo.Dennis
You can get a pretty good debate going on here with this subject, almost as good as "What motor oil is the best?" There really shouldn't be any real cause for debate, because it all depends on what you're trying to accomplish by adding theses products to your fuel system.....

Seafoam ---- Good stuff, works fine for most LIGHT DUTY carb/fuel system cleaning..... Main ingredients are petroleum Naphtha (Lighter Fluid) and highly refined oils.

Chemtool B12 ---- For HEAVY DUTY carb/fuel system cleaning for really gummed up carbs.... Much harsher chemicals than Seafoam. Main ingredients are acetone, methanol, and toluene.

If you're trying to clean a heavily gummed up carb without pulling the carb completely off the engine, B12 is your best choice. If you want a little "Spring Cleaning", or maintenance cleaning on a carb that has sat with 10% ethanol in it over the Winter, Seafoam works fine.

I buy just Chemtool B12 because it's about 25% cheaper for the same size can and it works for both situations, I just pay close attention to the mix ratio I'm using. B12 can be a little harsh on plastic floats and rubber-tipped float needles if you concentrate the mix to much, or soak those particular parts directly in it for to long. Chemtool B12 is not a good idea in diesel engines, but Seafoam will work with no problem in a diesel and you can actually get your $$$'s worth out of that over priced lighter fluid/refined oil mixture in their nifty white can;)

OK..... I've lit the fuse, let the debate begin, but you have to read the link below that backs up what I'm saying before you drag what your Grandpa told you to use into your post:cool:

Seafoam vs Chemtool B12
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To my point..... The expensive lighter fluid/Oil mix is not even on your list. I read any TOP 10 list on the internet with the thought of who's suppling the most money $$$.... So can you share with us what's actually listed on the MSDS sheet for Techtron Plus that makes it #1 and why?

Can you soak brass mixing jets in it directly like you can B12?

It's $15 for a 12 oz can, B12 is $8 for a 15oz can...... I'm always looking for a deal, but this doesn't appear to be it for the different ways I use a carb cleaner
Oh, that hurt.... I only really downshift into BS mode when there is $$$ involved. The saying is "You get what you pay for"..... So far any contributions I've tried to make on this Forum have been completely free, but I would like to see about setting up a path to accept gratuities, and then you'll really see my best work:)
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Good Luck!!
Don't need luck Bud, people hand me $$$$ every day for the BS I pass out with the invoice when they come pick up their equipment I've worked on, I'm just thinking about a way to possibly expand a BS revenue stream without going on You Tube
The point is we don't need members advertising on this forum. You are a top quality member, and I enjoy your posts.
The point is we don't need members advertising on this forum. You are a top quality member, and I enjoy your posts.
The point is I was pulling your chain..... I make all the $$$ I need out of my shop, there is an endless supply of knuckleheads with cash here in MS to screw their stuff up by trying to work on it themselves and then bringing it to me to actually fix, so the "BS" I supply on here is absolutely free to all members
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Hmmm Hmmmm...... I like Sea Foam! I use that C - - - on everything!
It is pricey but I don't use a lot of it, but it sure has got me sorted on carb issues plenty of time. As for B12, I can't say I've ever run into it.
Hmmm Hmmmm...... I like Sea Foam! I use that C - - - on everything!
It is pricey but I don't use a lot of it, but it sure has got me sorted on carb issues plenty of time. As for B12, I can't say I've ever run into it.
Hey, if lighter fluid and 3-1 sewing machine oil, works for you @ $10 a can....

If you want something that can give you cancer, but clean the hell out of any really gummed up carb..... B12 is only $8 a can and it also works pretty good as a penetrating fluid, paint remover, and electrical contact cleaner. It evaporates, Seafoam don't because of that expensive sewing machine oil, but Seafoam will work in a Zippo.:)
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Hey, if lighter fluid and 3-1 sewing machine oil, works for you @ $10 a can....

If you want something that can give you cancer, but clean the hell out of any really gummed up carb..... B12 is only $8 a can and it also works pretty good as a penetrating fluid, paint remover, and electrical contact cleaner. It evaporates, Seafoam don't because of that expensive sewing machine oil, but Seafoam will work in a Zippo.:)
I buy B12 by the armload and light my camel non-filters with a Bic. Sometimes I pour too much B12 in the tank because I drink beer when I'm working on old mowers, too.
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I buy B12 by the armload and light my camel non-filters with a Bic. Sometimes I pour too much B12 in the tank because I drink beer when I'm working on old mowers, too. View attachment 85929
"I pour too much"

Yep... I know the problem. I sometimes run into the same situation when I'm working on mowers and using Coors Light for inspiration:cool:
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I run sea foam in all my small engine gas. It was recommended by my local Stihl/snapper dealer years ago. My 25 year old stihl chainsaw has never needed carb work. Same thing for lawn mower, weedeater(15 yrs old), 4 wheeler, pressure washer, etc. Also helps in fuel injected cars throwing a code for misfire.
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I run sea foam in all my small engine gas. It was recommended by my local Stihl/snapper dealer years ago. My 25 year old stihl chainsaw has never needed carb work. Same thing for lawn mower, weedeater(15 yrs old), 4 wheeler, pressure washer, etc. Also helps in fuel injected cars throwing a code for misfire.
Yep..... Best $10 a can lighter fluid (Naptha) you can buy for the jobs you described, I won't argue with that. I'll bet your local Stihl/snapper dealer has a whole shelf full of it that he buys by the case for $3.50 a can wholesale and recommends the hell out of it to anybody that walks through the door..... "Best stuff ever!!!!" ;)

However..... Lowes sells Naptha at $20 a GALLON, not $1 an ounce Lowes Naptha ("Petroleum Distillate") $20 per Gallon

How does it work on the jobs like the one below I see all the time? Ask him what his mechanics use when they come across one of these, if he says Sea Foam, keep your wallet in your front pocket whenever your in the place......

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Just a guess here Bob Driver, that looks like the result of using ethanol fuel. I don't believe any additive can prevent what you are showing. Sure, some might retard the inevitable but none can get the garbage ethanol out. My fix has and always will be to burn only non E fuel in all of my small engine equipment. Small engine equipment is defined as any unit that gets the fuel tank filled from a jug that has been sitting around for any length of time. When I buy my non E fuel I always treat the jug with Seafoam hoping this will prolong the storage time some. All gasoline we buy in jugs is subject to going stale if left sitting around in the jug for an extended period, E fuel goes stale much quicker. I have to keep 30 gallons of non E fuel in jugs at all times for my generator when the power goes out, sometimes for days at a time. I am in a constant state of rotation with the 5 jugs, 3-4 months old and that jug goes in my daily use vehicle and gets replaced with fresh non E fuel.
Ethanol fuel goes through "Phase Separation" fairly rapid when sitting in jugs and if used in a carb engine the carb will look just like the one you show here. No additive can fix or prevent this.
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Yep..... Best $10 a can lighter fluid (Naptha) you can buy for the jobs you described, I won't argue with that. I'll bet your local Stihl/snapper dealer has a whole shelf full of it that he buys by the case for $3.50 a can wholesale and recommends the hell out of it to anybody that walks through the door..... "Best stuff ever!!!!" ;)

However..... Lowes sells Naptha at $20 a GALLON, not $10 an ounce Lowes Naptha ("Petroleum Distillate") $20 per Gallon

How does it work on the jobs like the one below I see all the time? Ask him what his mechanics use when they come across one of these, if he says Sea Foam, keep your wallet in your front pocket whenever your in the place......

View attachment 85986
I have always used Seafoam to avoid what your picture is showing and from the looks of it the owner uses corn/ethanol to run this carb when if they used a little seafoam following directions this would never happen which means you Sir would be out of work. I too repair lawn and garden equipment where people run cheap fuel for long periods of time and many times running a little Seafoam in the fuel tank cleans needed ports while running. That my good man has been proven multiple times.
Read the back of a B12 can "my good man"..... Does exactly the same thing, you just don't mix it as strong, and it cost a hell of a lot less. You're right..... If it weren't for ethanol fuel, I'd just have to rely on doing the Kohler, Hydro-Gear, and Tuff Torq warranty work. It would save on the wear/tear on my ultrasonic carb cleaner, but I'd still have to be constantly arguing with their OEM warranty Reps to keep my customers from being pissed at me
Just a guess here Bob Driver, that looks like the result of using ethanol fuel. I don't believe any additive can prevent what you are showing. Sure, some might retard the inevitable but none can get the garbage ethanol out. My fix has and always will be to burn only non E fuel in all of my small engine equipment. Small engine equipment is defined as any unit that gets the fuel tank filled from a jug that has been sitting around for any length of time. When I buy my non E fuel I always treat the jug with Seafoam hoping this will prolong the storage time some. All gasoline we buy in jugs is subject to going stale if left sitting around in the jug for an extended period, E fuel goes stale much quicker. I have to keep 30 gallons of non E fuel in jugs at all times for my generator when the power goes out, sometimes for days at a time. I am in a constant state of rotation with the 5 jugs, 3-4 months old and that jug goes in my daily use vehicle and gets replaced with fresh non E fuel.
Ethanol fuel goes through "Phase Separation" fairly rapid when sitting in jugs and if used in a carb engine the carb will look just like the one you show here. No additive can fix or prevent this.
Yep..... Pretty much what I've learned over the last 10 years of having my shop. They covered it pretty good also at both the Briggs and Kohler Certification schools..... They both say 60 days max in a carb bowl, or fuel tank, or they're not going to cover a carb problem under warranty
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