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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have recently acquired a Ford 3600. This tractor has the diesel engine and has had a Ford 502 belly mount sickle bar on it it’s whole life. The tractor was used for mowing banks and hills.
It was also running when it was parked, but that was 25 years ago. I have found that the clutch arm is froze, and the engine is locked up.
My plan is to rebuild the engine and repair anything that needs attention. I will be using the tractor for hay, and will probably put between 200-300 hours per year on it. That being said, full disclosure, I have never rebuilt an engine and intend for this to be a learning experience and end up with a little tractor I can be proud of for years to come.
I am almost ready to pull the head and have it sent off to be decked and new guides installed. So help me piece together a list of things to replace, understanding that I may find more when it’s opened up.

Are new valves necessary or can the old ones be lapped?
New main bearings and connecting rod bearings.
New rings.
Is it worth pulling the cam and putting new bearings there?
Head gasket and all seals.
Tractor will be split to fix clutch. What all needs replaced with a clutch “kit”?
Anything need replaced while tractor is split?

I’m hoping that when it comes apart, the pistons can be reused, but maybe I’m wrong.

I also plan to send off the injection pump to be rebuilt and put in new injectors.

So tell me what I’m missing.


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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
A paragraph I forgot to include.

After the starter failed to turn the engine over, I carefully took a pry bar to the flywheel as had no luck. I then removed the nose cone and radiator and got a wrench on the crank. I actually broke the loose tightening it. So I stopped.

The clutch arm going into the tractor is frozen. I removed the pin for the pedal assembly, so it’s out of the equation.




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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No, I put a wrench on the end and the bolt broke loose, but not the crankshaft.

The clutch pedal rod has been sprayed with pb blaster about a dozen times, and smacked with a hammer at least double or triple that many times.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Made some good progress over this weekend finally.

Got the rest of the cowling off. Throttle linkage was froze pretty good, so the dash cowl was holding me up. Got the accessories pulled off, both manifolds, then was able to pull the cylinder head.




Closest cylinder in picture has about 1/2 inch of water and rust particles. #2 has what I’m assuming is a salt?

Today I got the front axle, and all of the steering linkages pulled off. Power steering, hydraulic, and injection pumps off. Hopefully will be splitting this weekend.





Also working on scouring out and pricing parts that I will need to rebuild. I will update those tomorrow.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Long needed update. Pulled the engine and sent it off to a local machinist.

Finally heard back from machining guy. Says it’s got .060 rust pits, and was wondering if .060 over pistons are available. I can only see .040 but they may be out there somewhere. I&T shop manual says that cylinders can be bored out to 4.538 and sleeves installed. He also states that crank will have to be ground down .010.

Also used a puller to get the clutch collar thing off. Release arm now pivots, but is still stiff.


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Item I was describing was the clutch release shaft. I wasn’t too worried about getting terminology correct because I wasn’t asking a question.

Anyway, here’s a few more pictures of tear down.





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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Another update.

Machinist says I’ll have the block, crank, flywheel and head back this weekend or next. He had to do something that I’ve not heard of before. Bored cylinders 2 and 3 to .020 over, and is putting a .020 over sleeve in cylinder 1. I have never heard of only sleeving one cylinder, but don’t necessarily see a reason why it won’t work.

Hay season is about to start here, so not sure how much time I’ll have to spend on rebuilding this thing, but hopefully will make some progress soon.


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
All I can say is you should have sleeved all 3 cylinders.
And you may be right. It didn’t make me feel all good inside, but talking with several trusted sources around here they said it’s no issue. Guess I’ll find out.

Got everything but the head back from machine shop. Looks much better. Now I’ll just put it back together piece by piece. And I’m sure that will take me awhile.

I know a couple people were curious, so I’ll just add to the post.

I was quoted $2600 for a used engine from my local junkyard. No guarantees, no warranty. Heard through word of mouth a reman is $5,000+.

I have around $600 in machine work, which doesn’t surprise me for how bad the block looked.
$550 in a rebuild kit with new pistons.
$400 in a new clutch kit.
Sent the injection pump off to be gone through for $400
$190 for new injectors
Plan to put on new oil and water pumps. Priced those at $60/piece.

That’s with me doing all the work, and is the basics to get it running. This tractor will take much more just because of its condition. Like new rear rims and all four tires, front wheel bearings etc.

I know I will hit more snags, but I figured everything up and totaled just shy of $5,000. I think for a little project that I’m taking my time on, and ending up with a tractor that “should” be ready to rock and roll for years to come, that’s not too bad.

Curious on your guys’ thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It’s been a while. Here’s an update.

Engine went back together with little issue. Plastigaged all of the mains and con rods and they were all in spec. Rings all gapped between 0.001-0.002” on the tight side, but I wasn’t that concerned about it.

Engine and clutch mounted back up ok as well. I really wish the flywheel and crank had something more obvious to denote how it mounts. One bolt was literally 1/8th” off of symmetric. A little irritating trying to hold and rotate the hunk of flywheel.

Timing gears and cover are back on as well.

Rear wheels are off. Replacing tires and rims. Reusing the discs.

Next is oil pan and then head.

I’ve been documenting most of everything and posting on YouTube. Below is a link to the newest video if anyone is interested.



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