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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
I responded to a relevant thread with a question only to realise the thread is dead.
My question is how to replace valve stem seals without head removal on a 574 Diesel? I understand I need a way to keep the valves from falling in the head and am aware of a few ways to do it;
1. Pressurize the cylinder through injection port, 80psi I have read.
2. Get the piston to TDC so valve doesn't fall all the way through.
For point 1, how do I create the seal as its a wet liner without a thread in the port. Could I go through the inlet manifold work? Anyone done this on a 574?
For point 2, the valve won't fall too far that I can't pull it back up on a 574?
Thank you for any responses I receive. My first post here. Have 2 IH 574 tractors. Got one that runs like a dream. Liked it so much I got another one to fix up!:p
 

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Hello all,
I responded to a relevant thread with a question only to realise the thread is dead.
My question is how to replace valve stem seals without head removal on a 574 Diesel? I understand I need a way to keep the valves from falling in the head and am aware of a few ways to do it;
1. Pressurize the cylinder through injection port, 80psi I have read.
2. Get the piston to TDC so valve doesn't fall all the way through.
For point 1, how do I create the seal as its a wet liner without a thread in the port. Could I go through the inlet manifold work? Anyone done this on a 574?
For point 2, the valve won't fall too far that I can't pull it back up on a 574?
Thank you for any responses I receive. My first post here. Have 2 IH 574 tractors. Got one that runs like a dream. Liked it so much I got another one to fix up!:p
The easiest would be to use an old injector, remove the pintle nozzle and make an adapter to attach an airline fitting to the injection pipe thread and block off the small bleed off port, bolt that into the injector port and bring that cylinder to TDC compression stroke and hopefully you should be good to go, you may have to engage the gear box to hold the engine from turning from the air pressure.

The 574 was a good tractor, I looked after a 474 and the later 574 up until the early 90's, a weakness was the gimbles on the steering ram and the thin bushings, I think my operators were a bit slack with greasing the pivots.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The easiest would be to use an old injector, remove the pintle nozzle and make an adapter to attach an airline fitting to the injection pipe thread and block off the small bleed off port, bolt that into the injector port and bring that cylinder to TDC compression stroke and hopefully you should be good to go, you may have to engage the gear box to hold the engine from turning from the air pressure.

The 574 was a good tractor, I looked after a 474 and the later 574 up until the early 90's, a weakness was the gimbles on the steering ram and the thin bushings, I think my operators were a bit slack with greasing the pivots.
I had pulled injector 1 out as the atomizing diesel was escaping up the wet liner and out the top of the port. It was a rough fix with cleaning the carbon and greasing it up but it worked. That injector had seen better days. Might replace it and run your idea, that's great! Thank you!

Yes! Steering is rough on the one am doing the work on but this tractor was at the right price. Will visit that soon!
 

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Hello all,
I responded to a relevant thread with a question only to realise the thread is dead.
My question is how to replace valve stem seals without head removal on a 574 Diesel? I understand I need a way to keep the valves from falling in the head and am aware of a few ways to do it;
1. Pressurize the cylinder through injection port, 80psi I have read.
2. Get the piston to TDC so valve doesn't fall all the way through.
For point 1, how do I create the seal as its a wet liner without a thread in the port. Could I go through the inlet manifold work? Anyone done this on a 574?
For point 2, the valve won't fall too far that I can't pull it back up on a 574?
Thank you for any responses I receive. My first post here. Have 2 IH 574 tractors. Got one that runs like a dream. Liked it so much I got another one to fix up!:p
FredM has given you a good way to do it.
I'm a bit confused,
"For point 1, how do I create the seal as its a wet liner without a thread in the port"
what has the wet liner to do with the injector being used to pressurize the cylinder.?

I had pulled injector 1 out as the atomizing diesel was escaping up the wet liner and out the top of the port. It was a rough fix with cleaning the carbon and greasing it up but it worked. That injector had seen better days. Might replace it and run your idea, that's great! Thank you!

The diesel was escaping up the wet liner? and escaping the top of the port?
Was the fuel not igniting and the valve leaking by so much that the engine was not creating compression and the unburnt fuel was coming out the exhaust port?
If that is the case and the cylinder has so much carbon the valves are not seating the head needs to come off for the valves and seats to be cleaned and ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi LouNY. To your first point, I just meant how do I do through injector port as have seen it done on petrol (gas) through spark plug port.
An I do think you are absolutely right, a rebuild is needed as there would definitely be carbon build up. But I'm a newb mechanic and trying to work up to that. I don't think I'm having compression issues yet. I have blue smoke (not black which my understanding is a symptom of unburnt fuel) at cold start with it a bit boggy until (my hypothesis anyway) the oil leaking through the valves has been burnt up, then runs very well with no smoke color.
This was the injector I pulled to give an idea of carbon build up.
 

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If it is starting and running decently but a bit smokey. The first thing I would look at is the valve lash, if some are excessively loose the valves and seats could be carboned up.
Blue/gray or white smoke smoke at startup on a cold engine is not uncommon.
The D239 is not an especially good starter when cold. If you don't get the fuel shutoff lever into the start position they are very difficult to start.
I put a gear reduction starter and new battery cables on mine this year, which has made it a much better starter.
Looking at your injectors I'd be tempted to pull them and send them out or have a local shop rebuild them and maybe new tips installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If it is starting and running decently but a bit smokey. The first thing I would look at is the valve lash, if some are excessively loose the valves and seats could be carboned up.
Blue/gray or white smoke smoke at startup on a cold engine is not uncommon.
The D239 is not an especially good starter when cold. If you don't get the fuel shutoff lever into the start position they are very difficult to start.
I put a gear reduction starter and new battery cables on mine this year, which has made it a much better starter.
Looking at your injectors I'd be tempted to pull them and send them out or have a local shop rebuild them and maybe new tips installed.
I am taking injectors to a shop next month. If I am going to the trouble of replacing valve stem seals, I was going to look and my valve clearances as well. I have a lot to research before I go forward with it but I have a shop manual and I believe it had the clearances required included in it.
 
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