Hi there - I am trying to repair some leaking seals on the hydraulic steering on a 1990 Case 580k 4WD. I've been able to remove the tie rods and remove the 3 large Hex Bolts holding the gland to the steering housing but I can't get the housing to separate...and thus can't get the rod out. I've given a few good wacks to the housing but nothing. There isn't a ton of room to swing anything too big and i don't want to damage the rod that is in the casing. I've attached picture but if anyone has any advice on how to remove the rods I'm all ears. I have the huge service manual but no where in it can i find an exploded diagram of the power steering unit or how to disassemble. Thx in advance for any help. Ron
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rdavison39
Schematic, Manuals, Specifications and Diagrams for Front drive axle, steering cylinder | Case CE | MyCNHi US Store
Find schematics, manuals, specifications and diagrams for FRONT DRIVE AXLE, STEERING CYLINDER. Find genuine OEM parts for your needs.
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Maybe this will help. Provided this page matches your tractor serial number range. Unless I'm looking at it wrong, your photo is of the left side flange, and what I"m seeing in the diagram that flange is part of the cylinder barrel. Most likely hasn't moved in years and probably would be pretty stubborn. The flange on the right should the cylinder head, and should come off a bit easier. It has to come off before the piston.rod unit will come out. There should only be one rod with the piston in the center. If there is room to do so I would pull that out, deal with what's needed and leave the barrel in the machine. I'm guessing you can replace the shaft seals on that end from the outside if you're careful once the shaft is out.
The ball joints aren't that bad. Most people panic trying to find a thin wrench to fit between the ball joint and the end of the shaft. That doesn't always work out well. What I do is use a pipe wrench on BOTH ball joints and break loose whichever comes first. once one has backed off some, a standard wrench can be used on the exposed shaft.
No because once one side comes off, then the exposed flats on that end can be held with whatever thickness wrench you have, and the other joint gets the pipe wrench. If needed you can also grind the flats a bit wider, once you determine how much rod is exposed when it's all the way in. In most cases the end of the rod never reaches the wiper seal when at the end of the stroke.
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