I removed the MMM this weekend to put away for the winter. Thought I would pass along a little feedback for anyone else who might be doing the same thing.
Removal was pretty straight forward. I followed the instructions in the mower owner's manual and they actually work with a few *'s. I found that the spring loaded pins still had some weight or load on them even though I had the mower resting on the ground. I used a long pry bar to move mower up and down a small amount to relieve the weight on the spring loaded pins and allow them to release. The instructions did not cover turning the front wheels full lock to the right to make more clearance to slide the mower out from under the tractor. If you have the mower adusted to cut high (i.e. 3" -4" inches) you may not have the clearance to slide the mower out from under the tractor and you will either have to lower the mower or if you have a FEL installed, use the FEL to raise the front of the tractor just enough to clear the mower.
Another suggestion I would HIGHLY recommend is to replace the cotter keys in the UPPER rear lift links with the quick disconnect type spring pin so you can easily remove the rear lift links BEFORE you attempt to slide the mower out from under the tractor. Otherwise you need to be VERY CAREFUL to move or tie the links out of the way when sliding the mower out. I removed the links so they were not dangling and out of the way. Also, don't forget to purchase a pto protective cover. (they are a composite plastic cover that twist/snaps over the pto to keep dirt out and protect it)
Now for the fun stuff........WOW!!!! is that mower heavy!!!! I strongly suggest removing the rear anti-scalp roller to allow tipping the mower up on its side without it slipping and sliding. I tipped the mower up against the wall and leaned with enough weight against the wall that the mower seemed pretty steady in that position. Tipping it up on the rear anti-scalp roller bracket also allows the gearbox input shaft AND seal to face up so oil does not set against the seal. (I don't think the seal was designed to seal in this postion)
I positioned the mower so the blades were facing out from the wall which will allow me to easily replace the blades and clean the grass build up off. I purchased an extra set of blades and swap out the new for the current installed blades. I file the blade edges back to spec. and will install them next year when I do this again. While you have the mower off the tractor is a great time to check or change the gearbox oil and grease the pto shaft fittings as well as pressure wash the underside of the tractor.
A NOTE OF CAUTION!!!!! This mower is extremely heavy!!!! Like to the tune of well over 400 lbs. Be VERY careful when handling the mower and a helper would be well advised. Warn the kids to stay away from it while it is stored against the wall and some kind of straps or brackets to secure it to the wall would be well advised.
The tractor seems to be a lot more nimble going over rough ground now without the MMM and I can go over more debry and obstacles now.
Removal was pretty straight forward. I followed the instructions in the mower owner's manual and they actually work with a few *'s. I found that the spring loaded pins still had some weight or load on them even though I had the mower resting on the ground. I used a long pry bar to move mower up and down a small amount to relieve the weight on the spring loaded pins and allow them to release. The instructions did not cover turning the front wheels full lock to the right to make more clearance to slide the mower out from under the tractor. If you have the mower adusted to cut high (i.e. 3" -4" inches) you may not have the clearance to slide the mower out from under the tractor and you will either have to lower the mower or if you have a FEL installed, use the FEL to raise the front of the tractor just enough to clear the mower.
Another suggestion I would HIGHLY recommend is to replace the cotter keys in the UPPER rear lift links with the quick disconnect type spring pin so you can easily remove the rear lift links BEFORE you attempt to slide the mower out from under the tractor. Otherwise you need to be VERY CAREFUL to move or tie the links out of the way when sliding the mower out. I removed the links so they were not dangling and out of the way. Also, don't forget to purchase a pto protective cover. (they are a composite plastic cover that twist/snaps over the pto to keep dirt out and protect it)
Now for the fun stuff........WOW!!!! is that mower heavy!!!! I strongly suggest removing the rear anti-scalp roller to allow tipping the mower up on its side without it slipping and sliding. I tipped the mower up against the wall and leaned with enough weight against the wall that the mower seemed pretty steady in that position. Tipping it up on the rear anti-scalp roller bracket also allows the gearbox input shaft AND seal to face up so oil does not set against the seal. (I don't think the seal was designed to seal in this postion)
I positioned the mower so the blades were facing out from the wall which will allow me to easily replace the blades and clean the grass build up off. I purchased an extra set of blades and swap out the new for the current installed blades. I file the blade edges back to spec. and will install them next year when I do this again. While you have the mower off the tractor is a great time to check or change the gearbox oil and grease the pto shaft fittings as well as pressure wash the underside of the tractor.
A NOTE OF CAUTION!!!!! This mower is extremely heavy!!!! Like to the tune of well over 400 lbs. Be VERY careful when handling the mower and a helper would be well advised. Warn the kids to stay away from it while it is stored against the wall and some kind of straps or brackets to secure it to the wall would be well advised.
The tractor seems to be a lot more nimble going over rough ground now without the MMM and I can go over more debry and obstacles now.
