Tractor Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

Ok went out to cear the snow today with the 644 and have a slight issue. When the tractor is in gear and moving forwad or reverse it goes then bucks a little then coasts then engages again. What do you all think the problem might be. Doesn't seem to be losing power or over taxing the engine. Let the tractor warm up for about 15 Min before I started to let the hydraulics warm up. Planned on chaging all the fluids soon and hope this will help but fear there may be a larger issue.

Thanks,

Bob
 

·
Tractor Lover
Joined
·
4,461 Posts
Could be cold thick fluid causing sliding parts to stick in the hydraulic circuit...when you start it put the hi-lo range shifter in neutral....it's the mechanical part of the system...then engage your forward/reverse lever in either forward or reverse and leave it their....that'll allow oil to circulate through the hydraulic circuit and give it a quicker warm up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,693 Posts
Never have had that happan, but as Randy says, hydro fluid can do strange things when cold. At first I was fearing the dreaded Diff bolts, but I have never had that happan, and if Randy did not bring it up, and I know he had had the problem, its probably not that. Is there a warm place that you can store the tractor? Maybe try to see if the problem goes away.


BTW if you have not done it yet, I would REALY change thet oil in the hydro system. Who knows what was put in there, and those units dont have a filter. [well at least the GT's dont. I assume the loaders don't eather]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. I let the hydro fluid warm up before I started using it follwing the warm up directions in the manual. It states put the Trans in the neutral position and put direction control either forward or reverse. I think I am going to change out the fluid but am afraid the problem is the diff bolts. Posted on another forum and have gotten that response that it sounds like the diff bolts are sheared. On the positive side I was told I will be able to check this out without having to remove the trans completely. Well thanks for the help. Going to open her up and check and at the very least change the fluid.

Bob
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,693 Posts
Ya If you can check without pulling the whole trans, I would. Those bolts WILL crack the case.


Those darn bolts are probably the ONLY weakness on the whole tractor. They say they have been fixed on the later tractors, and seems to be right, becouse I beat the tar out of mine,[a '83 and a '87] and have never had a problem, and you almost never hear of them breaking on the ingersoll's, just the older Cases.
 

·
Tractor Lover
Joined
·
4,461 Posts
Definetly check those bolts....I could probably change them out in my sleep...If your bolts were sheared it would be leaving a trail of 90 wt in the snow as when they get pinched between the range gear and case..the case loses that fight..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys!! Was wondering if you guys would know. Will the trans axle from a 446 or a 3016 be a direct bolt in change for my 644? The 3016 would be the optimal if it would since it would more than likely have the updated repair on the diff carriage. Would be good to have a spare.

Also Argee how long should it take to rebuild the transaxle and are there any specialty tools I would need? Am pretty handy with a wrench but am worried if I tear into it and don't have that one wrench then that could kill a whole weekend. Also in your opinion wha should be changed during the rebuild?

Thanks,

Bob
 

·
Tractor Lover
Joined
·
4,461 Posts
It's probably a 6 - 8 hour job....no specialty tools needed..

You'll need to get the rear tires, seat, fenders, and fuel tank (if it's under the seat on your model) off first as the frame bolts through to the top of the differential housing...then drop the brake assy and hydraulic motor and she'll be ready to come out...

The rest is taking apart the diff...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,693 Posts
The cases are the same for all model except for the loaders that had a back hoe on them. Depending on what unit you get the case from, you may need to change the axle shafts. The small wheel tractors had a 5lug wheel, and the big whell tractors had a 6 lug wheel. Not sure on your loader. As for gears, the diferent "gearing" to compsate for the diferent wheel sizes, was made through the hydro motor, not gearing, so as long as you use your drive motor, you will be the same.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I own a Ingersoll 6018 tractor. Have done so many repairs to this already but now the hydraulic pump keeps blowing out the front seal. I would really like to know how to repair this instead of paying high dollar for a used pump. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top