rc cars
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jbetts- I don't know alot about electrics (which ones are better than others), but I have a few friends with them. Three have an Associated RC-10, and another guy has a Duratrax Evader that they play around with. Im trying to get them over here to my house to race them in the backyard, but we havent done it yet.
Tamiya also makes some decent RC cars and trucks. I have a Duratrax Axis that I like, but it's nitro and not electric.
Do a search on Duratrax, Associated, or Tamiya and see what you come up with. Good luck, and keep me posted.
Hope this helps,
Greg
Tamiya also makes some decent RC cars and trucks. I have a Duratrax Axis that I like, but it's nitro and not electric.
Do a search on Duratrax, Associated, or Tamiya and see what you come up with. Good luck, and keep me posted.
Hope this helps,
Greg
Cannot go wrong with RC-10s --- I have 14 of them. Simply strange but true... Every body and style of the original going back to around 84-85... And every model after that to GT, Worlds, T2, T3, TC3, B4, B3s ---- I am a strange RC10 expert'o I guess.
Andy
Andy
Well, first things first.
You have to figure out the following:
Do you want gas or electric?
Gas noisy, messy but very powerful and run times are much higher --- more maintenance and wear/tear and things to break.
Electric - simple, clean and easy to run --- but have relatively short full-throttle run times, need lots of batt packs, good intelligent quick & trickle charger unit (dont buy cheap), some packs (if non-NIMH) will develop memories and need to discharge them completely to avoid. Kind of a pain.
Next ---- What do you want to roll with?
Off-Road buggy
Stadium Trucks
Monster Trucks
Touring Class
Stadium Truck or Buggy is a good place to start IMHO. Given the
fact that you are a complete newbie, I would be inclined to suggest the Stadium trucks --- buggies run a little faster with lot
less forgiveness for new drivers in my opinion. Plus they are narrower, quicker and little bit more difficult to control. Ok, the others are the list --- simply aren't for you right now --- unless
you want to run onroad sedans only. No my cup of tea, chap.
Fun, fast, but I like to test the limits of the car in all aspects not
just straight out speed.
Ok, in my opinion the Tamiya is a decent truck --- This truck was
released about 2 years ago now and while Tamiya always made some pretty decent stuff --- it was NEVER consider to be the best out there (unless you want to talk about Boomerangs, Hotshots,
and other cars I have owned, run and collected by Tamiya) They
were never Associated material --- but good starter cars. Alas,
for the $$$$ these days, I would have to say your better bet would be with the Duratrax or Traxxis line of products. The Rustler is one of the most well-built RTR chassis out there ---- not too many bells and whistles but a good solid stadium truck. Again not the best in the world, but still a good starting point. The Duratrax Evader ST and ST Pro are probably your best bang for the $ my friend.
Well built --- actually on the world class Losi XXT line of trucks. (back in the day - remember these?) & optioned out like mad:
(chrome plated dogbones, 3-gear tranny with a ball diff, slipper clutch, aluminum threaded body shocks and something you hardly ever see on an entry level RTR vehicle, countersunk allen head screws instead of phillips head screws that or not
countersunk) --- This series is actually probably close to 3 years old but the market for electric RTRs has gone down with the advent of the Nitros several years back in primetime.
BTW, it is very unusual for an entry level vehicle to offer this kind of adjustment and features. In most cases you get non-adjustable upper control arm links with few to no mounting options, few shock mounting options and plastic dogbones. Just to upgrade other kits to offer this kind of adjust would cost almost as much as the complete Evader does. In any case, either this vehicle or the Traxxus Rustler line would be a good option for you, jbetts. I guess it is your choice and your $ -----
It is a fun hobby that can grow on you. Be sure to go down and
get a nice large fishing tackle box (preferably the ones with drawers that open toward you and have a front panel that clips and folds down out of the way. Looking for horizontal drawers -- pull out and not just a $3 tackle box. Expect to spend about $10-20 for a good box. It will be large enough at the top (if you get the right one) to hold your batteries, extra motors, charger, discharger unit, extra chassis or wheels/tires, soldering gun etc.
and have drawer space to hold adjustable shock collars, spare shocks, dampening oils, grease, misc hand tools, insulation, wiring, replacement deans plugs, spare body clips, epoxy, extra
dogbones, black tape etc......man I could go on and on.
In any case, let me know what you are looking at and I will see if
I can help you further. If you want a toy, go with Tamiya --- if
you want a better offroad entry go with Traxxus or Duratrax.
If you have any questions, post em here.
PS --- One more thing, maybe I am old-skooooool here --- but see if you can get the non-RTR kit. It will teach you LIGHTYEARS more than the ole' "Tyco out of the box -- put some batteries in me and then when something breaks -- you go --- now what the heck was that part ---- and you have no idea how to fix it" -- Build it
yourself --- they are really simple and what you learn will help you understand when you move into other vehicles or even nitro that are modified and shows you how to adjust your components
better.... plus you know it was built well with care, concern and
understanding... Just my opinion.
HTH,
Andy
You have to figure out the following:
Do you want gas or electric?
Gas noisy, messy but very powerful and run times are much higher --- more maintenance and wear/tear and things to break.
Electric - simple, clean and easy to run --- but have relatively short full-throttle run times, need lots of batt packs, good intelligent quick & trickle charger unit (dont buy cheap), some packs (if non-NIMH) will develop memories and need to discharge them completely to avoid. Kind of a pain.
Next ---- What do you want to roll with?
Off-Road buggy
Stadium Trucks
Monster Trucks
Touring Class
Stadium Truck or Buggy is a good place to start IMHO. Given the
fact that you are a complete newbie, I would be inclined to suggest the Stadium trucks --- buggies run a little faster with lot
less forgiveness for new drivers in my opinion. Plus they are narrower, quicker and little bit more difficult to control. Ok, the others are the list --- simply aren't for you right now --- unless
you want to run onroad sedans only. No my cup of tea, chap.
Fun, fast, but I like to test the limits of the car in all aspects not
just straight out speed.
Ok, in my opinion the Tamiya is a decent truck --- This truck was
released about 2 years ago now and while Tamiya always made some pretty decent stuff --- it was NEVER consider to be the best out there (unless you want to talk about Boomerangs, Hotshots,
and other cars I have owned, run and collected by Tamiya) They
were never Associated material --- but good starter cars. Alas,
for the $$$$ these days, I would have to say your better bet would be with the Duratrax or Traxxis line of products. The Rustler is one of the most well-built RTR chassis out there ---- not too many bells and whistles but a good solid stadium truck. Again not the best in the world, but still a good starting point. The Duratrax Evader ST and ST Pro are probably your best bang for the $ my friend.
Well built --- actually on the world class Losi XXT line of trucks. (back in the day - remember these?) & optioned out like mad:
(chrome plated dogbones, 3-gear tranny with a ball diff, slipper clutch, aluminum threaded body shocks and something you hardly ever see on an entry level RTR vehicle, countersunk allen head screws instead of phillips head screws that or not
countersunk) --- This series is actually probably close to 3 years old but the market for electric RTRs has gone down with the advent of the Nitros several years back in primetime.
BTW, it is very unusual for an entry level vehicle to offer this kind of adjustment and features. In most cases you get non-adjustable upper control arm links with few to no mounting options, few shock mounting options and plastic dogbones. Just to upgrade other kits to offer this kind of adjust would cost almost as much as the complete Evader does. In any case, either this vehicle or the Traxxus Rustler line would be a good option for you, jbetts. I guess it is your choice and your $ -----
It is a fun hobby that can grow on you. Be sure to go down and
get a nice large fishing tackle box (preferably the ones with drawers that open toward you and have a front panel that clips and folds down out of the way. Looking for horizontal drawers -- pull out and not just a $3 tackle box. Expect to spend about $10-20 for a good box. It will be large enough at the top (if you get the right one) to hold your batteries, extra motors, charger, discharger unit, extra chassis or wheels/tires, soldering gun etc.
and have drawer space to hold adjustable shock collars, spare shocks, dampening oils, grease, misc hand tools, insulation, wiring, replacement deans plugs, spare body clips, epoxy, extra
dogbones, black tape etc......man I could go on and on.
In any case, let me know what you are looking at and I will see if
I can help you further. If you want a toy, go with Tamiya --- if
you want a better offroad entry go with Traxxus or Duratrax.
If you have any questions, post em here.
PS --- One more thing, maybe I am old-skooooool here --- but see if you can get the non-RTR kit. It will teach you LIGHTYEARS more than the ole' "Tyco out of the box -- put some batteries in me and then when something breaks -- you go --- now what the heck was that part ---- and you have no idea how to fix it" -- Build it
yourself --- they are really simple and what you learn will help you understand when you move into other vehicles or even nitro that are modified and shows you how to adjust your components
better.... plus you know it was built well with care, concern and
understanding... Just my opinion.
HTH,
Andy
One more thing...Look for combos on Ebay ---- You might be able to find someone dumping their Duratrax Evader ST with lots of extras like charges, wheels, batteries etc for a good price. (caution --- if it looks beat to hell it probably is and then some) Caveat: Most used motors probably have major arc buildup, comm & brushes are burnt or torn up and bearing probably need to be replaced all over --- not to mention stress cracks in the shock towers, bones or chassis. Not too smart to buy used, but SOMETIMES you can find a fabulous deal. Look around but realize that MOST RCers do not take really good care of their stuff and definately don't rebuild or own a commutator cutter (well I did) or motor balancing stand.
You might find some really good NEW IN BOX deals though!
Just some thoughts for you.
Andy
You might find some really good NEW IN BOX deals though!
Just some thoughts for you.
Andy
you have 14 RC cars?
you and fusion should have a smash up derby.. kind of costly but it would be great to watch..
i want a big 4WD one too.. i think id like electric.. how long do the battery packs last on them? 10-15 minute or less?
i want to be able to drive the truck over grass and stuff nothing to drastic.. but i think the gas ones are too noisey..
you and fusion should have a smash up derby.. kind of costly but it would be great to watch..
i want a big 4WD one too.. i think id like electric.. how long do the battery packs last on them? 10-15 minute or less?
i want to be able to drive the truck over grass and stuff nothing to drastic.. but i think the gas ones are too noisey..
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Great post, Admin. Great info. I have not owned close to 14 cars. Thats the great thing about RC, as there is something for everyone. My forte is boats, both gas and nitro. I have flown planes and built an Extra 300 from a kit, but have had only one electric car; a Tamiya TL-01 Mustang Cobra. I have really only got into cars and buggies in the last couple years- they are great to pass the time while the water is frozen.
Since selling the Fusion, I am down to a nitro touring car (RS42), an electric (TL-01), a cheapo nitro buggy (Duratrax Axis), a nitro outrigger, nitro tunnel hull, and two gas V-hulls. I will be doing some testing this season with gas boats for the owner of a well known prop manufacturer, as he will be busy with his nitro boats. Even though he must cater to both crowds, he says gas boats are a waste of good lawn equipment. LOL
As for the 14 RC-10's, I can fathom it. There seems to be a cult of RC-10 owners, and I can see why. They seem very durable, competitive, and parts are more than readily available.
Another cool thing is that everything has it's flaw of some kind, but they are all upgradeable. Once you get bit, you are bitten for good. I still miss the all out adrenaline rush from the Fusion...it is truly an experience.
Greg
Since selling the Fusion, I am down to a nitro touring car (RS42), an electric (TL-01), a cheapo nitro buggy (Duratrax Axis), a nitro outrigger, nitro tunnel hull, and two gas V-hulls. I will be doing some testing this season with gas boats for the owner of a well known prop manufacturer, as he will be busy with his nitro boats. Even though he must cater to both crowds, he says gas boats are a waste of good lawn equipment. LOL
As for the 14 RC-10's, I can fathom it. There seems to be a cult of RC-10 owners, and I can see why. They seem very durable, competitive, and parts are more than readily available.
Another cool thing is that everything has it's flaw of some kind, but they are all upgradeable. Once you get bit, you are bitten for good. I still miss the all out adrenaline rush from the Fusion...it is truly an experience.
Greg
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