I Want to take a moment to thank Rodster for the great links I forgot to do so in my last post and I fully intended to.
Specialty tools for doing teardown: Some of these I have and some I need.
(Have) A good set of fitting wrenches, shown being used on the Governor oil line in the first set of pics also used on the fuel lines, not needed all the time but a god send when they are.
(Need) A valve spring compressor that reaches into the small space on these engines. I get a loaner when I need one for the cars and that has only been once in 30 years and I have never run across a need for one on a small engine until now so I do not have one here, but that is going to be solved soon.
(Have) Small magnet (the kind you can get on a telescoping rod) to reach in a grab the valve keepers as pressure is removed with the valve spring compressor
(Have) Brass hammer and/or dead blow hammer (orange hammer in the photos).
(Have) Emory Cloth and a good single cut file to remove rust and burrs on the shafts and parts, Like the PTO shaft before I pulled the back pulley, the large 4 belt Pulley was designs to be removed off a rusted shaft but the back one was not and the shaft had to be cleaned up free of rust and de-burred on the end to get it off and even then with rust cutting oil it was stuck real good until I got it over the rust I could not get to.
(Have) The pullers I show being used to pull the pulleys are the most needed Specialty tool on this teardown with out them this project would have come to a screeching halt. I use the large one to pull flywheels after the Pull start clutch/nut is removed. The flywheel is on a tapered shaft on most small engines and good even pressure on two sides and a good rap is in most cases all that is needed to remove a flywheel once the holding nut/clutch is removed.
(Need) They sell a strap wrench to go around and hold a flywheel (keep it from turning) using a breaker bar when removing the nut/clutch. I have always been able to get the nut/clutch off using a well placed wedge (screwdriver or the like) ***under the flywheel*** never thought the fins they will break off, but even under the Flywheel is risky if not placed against something that can take the pressure needing to be applied breaking the nut/clutch free holding the flywheel. Be aware the points and condenser are under the flywheel with a soft cover so if wedged do not place the wedge where it can damage it.
(Have) Breaker bars for your sockets, I have 10 and an 18-inch long bar for my 1/2 inch drive sockets, the 18 is shown on the large puller.
Not all these would be needed in every situation but if you do a lot of these engines they will be needed eventually.
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"WOW! I can't believe it blew, with all the meat in that motor."
Yeah me too just goes to show the importance of regular maintenance, but I know the abuse it was put through by the Saws owners sons and laborers and the amount of sludge in the bottom of the sump tells the story. The pump although working could not pull the sludge and the bearings were starved for oil and let go.
"What are your plans for that beast?"
None really at this time, just had it sitting around and wanted to see if it could be saved. A generator would be a good use for it, it would turn a pair of 70 amp AC/Delco alternators under full load with no problem with 2 HP left over. That is just a couple of Ideas that come to mind.
I will post here from time to time as it progresses.
Right now I need to sort the Pulled parts into containers while the disassembly is fresh in my mind and mark them for future reassembly I have photos of just about every part and the way they are arranged what I have shown here is just a small portion of the pics taken.