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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is a simple pic of my (non-working) Briggs Model A --- with a few pieces removed. ;)

<center><img src=http://www.tractorforum.com/htdocs/pics/briggs-modela.jpg></center>

Cheers -- :cheers:

Andy
 

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Havent got that flywheel off yet or is this an old pic. W hy is there a gear on the end of the shaft?
Jody
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am waiting for the repair manual (Thanks Amicks!!!!) to dig any deeper -- but yes there are threaded holes on the side of the shaft that some sort of metal bracket attaches (removed in pic) --- I think I still need the gear/harmonic puller or perhaps someone else has better info. Dunno --- my first antique engine so obviously next time will be much quicker ---

Andy
 

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If those bolt holes allow you any depth, you could drill a piece of angle iron with the same on centers and one hole dead center between them. Then weld a nut to the center one. Bolt the contraption on to the flywheel holes. Then thread a bolt through the nut you welded on. Slowly tighten the bolt and see if the flywheel begins to push off that shaft.
:truth:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds like a job for my good friend and buddy, Jodyand! :D
With his super powers and mighty machinist skills, he could have it done in like 10 mins! :D :clap:

Thanks, Argee --- let me see what we can do... :D Good idea!

Andy
 

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Flywheel removal

Andy
If you haven't found out yet that gear on the end of the crankshaft is the nut that holds the flywheel on, the bracket you spoke of is actually the lock to hold the nut (gear) tight, once that nut is removed then a little pressure under 2 sides of the flywheel then a solid hit with a brass hammer on the end of the shaft you should have it off. Sorry I didn't reply sooner (old age you know) had to think about it awhile it's been 3 or 4 years since my "B's" apart
Archie
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: Flywheel removal

Originally posted by archyb2
Andy
If you haven't found out yet that gear on the end of the crankshaft is the nut that holds the flywheel on, the bracket you spoke of is actually the lock to hold the nut (gear) tight, once that nut is removed then a little pressure under 2 sides of the flywheel then a solid hit with a brass hammer on the end of the shaft you should have it off. Sorry I didn't reply sooner (old age you know) had to think about it awhile it's been 3 or 4 years since my "B's" apart
Archie
Nope, didn't know that --- My manual from wonderful Amicks has not arrived yet --- maybe this week. :D --- Thanks Amicks! ----
I will give this the ole' try this weekend. Does the nut/gear on the end screw off or is it attached via some type of key/pin? Can you explain more about this removal? Thanks so much, Archie!
:D

Andy
:alien:
 

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Andy
I should have been clearer on the nut/gear, it is threaded on, there are two narrow flat spots on the out end of the gear where you can get a wrench on it to remove it. I'm pretty sure it it right hand thread (ccw to remove) the flywheel should be keyed on the shaft (standard square key) If that key is missing or sheared it could the reason for not starting.

Archie
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Originally posted by archyb2
Andy
I should have been clearer on the nut/gear, it is threaded on, there are two narrow flat spots on the out end of the gear where you can get a wrench on it to remove it. I'm pretty sure it it right hand thread (ccw to remove) the flywheel should be keyed on the shaft (standard square key) If that key is missing or sheared it could the reason for not starting.

Archie
Wow, Archie --- You are like an online repair manual robot... :D
You just take a little while to respond, like an old model from the early 1900s or something. :D :D :D ----------- Thanks for all of the wonderful info --- now I really feel like I understand the removal process. :D Thanks!

Andy
 

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Andy,

Any progress on your Briggs Model A?

My Model B had a very weak spark so I had to put an external coil with a 12 volt battery on it two weeks ago. Now it runs great!

John Phillips
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Funny you should ask...
<br>
I got kinda discouraged with it and I haven't gotten back over to it in about 2 weeks. I got the flywheel off --- checked the points, coil, condensor, etc and everything was fine. It does appear that the spark is a little weak to me. (it will just the gap on the COM 8 Champion plug when asked but it does not have enough juice to spark outside of it --- like to a ground bolt on the head etc --- wondering if it is actually making it down into the cylinder honestly) --- Spark color is nice crisp blue but may either be the plug or the coil I guess. I pulled the head and checked for wear and compression. Everything looked absolutely mint in there. Even brand new gaskets. (looks like someone really took good care of this piece --- which makes it even more frustrating) ---

I cleaned the fuel lines dropped the bowl and sediment filter. Now of course it leaks like a canoe with a few buckshot holes in it and I need a new sediment filter and bowl cork gasket for it. As hoping that the carb (Flo-jet) is now ok after a mild rebuild on it.
On my tests, I am dropping just a couple drops of fuel into the cylinder and testing for any type of start. Nothing so far ---
I know I got great compression, air, and fuel --- so only thing left in my opinion is spark.... :hooray:

I need to get this :argh: thing going before my wife thinks I am a total idiot. She already thinks I am about 65% there. Don't clue her in on the rest just yet... :quiet:

HAHAHA..
If you know of a place to acquire the sediment fuel filter and cork gasket for the fuel bowl, please let me know. BTW, what plug does the Champion Com 8 reference to in today's world?
Thanks!

Andy
 

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Andy
It sounds like your internal coil is going bad, thats the way them seem to act,they will have good looking spark but not enough umph to get the job done. New coils are available from Briggs but costly (probably about 175 of your dollars) and they don't seem to last, I've replaced 2 in 6 yrs , no more for me I'm gonig the external route, (my motors are on garden tractors so I can hide the coil and it won't be seen)

Archie
 

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Nice engine. I saw on just like it at a distributor of ours in Milwaukee. The guy has hundreds of antique Briggs and Tecum engines.

Next time I'm there, I gotta take pictures.
 

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Andy: My old Briggs coil would only put out a 0.010 inch spark. When I changed to an automobile coil with a 12 volt battery, it produced a 0.25 inch spark and started on the very first pull. I still use the original Briggs points and condenser with my external coil. If you want to try this, let me know and I’ll give you the wiring details. By the way, I’m using a Champion D-10 sparkplug on my Model B.

Archie: I’m trying to learn how to rewind these old coils. Mine was so disintegrated that I couldn’t tell how many turns of wire are required. If you are willing to sell me one of your bad Model B coils let me know. I’ve found a place that sells 40 gage wire.

John Phillips
 

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I used to have a 1965 Bolens with a Wisconsen. The mag was
destroyed so I used a 12 volt car coil. I also used a ballast
resistor so I started on 12 volts to the coil and then ran the
resistor circut to run. Like the old Dodges used. I don't know if the resister circut was really necessary though. I was told it was
easier on the points.
Rodster
 

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OLD COIL

John
I would gladly give you one, but I did a major clean up this past summer soooo no coils left

Archie
 

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So Andy. And news on getting it apart? I am sure you got it apart, fixed it, and are just having SO much fun running it, that you have not had time to post about it.:D :D :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Not running yet --- makes me wonder what will happen first, Tuba's lattice work or this Model A engine?

HAHAHAHA

Andy
 

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Originally posted by admin
Not running yet --- makes me wonder what will happen first, Tuba's lattice work or this Model A engine?

HAHAHAHA

Andy
Well if you don't hurry it'll be the lattice.:furious:
Jody
 
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