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Assuming a high serial # deck part #AM133566. The deck stamping lists for $1,072.50. I think you want to try and fix this one. :eek:mg:
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Originally posted by Chief
Also, is it a high or low serial # deck? (i.e. 040001 - ) or (- 040000)
Chief, All I have it the sales invoice which has the MMM listed as MO62CBC033***. I have the number written down in the OM, but that as well as the MMM are not where I can access them right now.
 

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Even if it was torn or cracked its still fixable. You can do a alot with a decent piece of steel and alsmost any repair will make it ijust as strong as a new one wold be.........if you were in the area I would just tell you to bring it on by the shop and we could easily fix it........sight unseen, as there is not much you can't do to a piece of steel to make it right...........

Bare deck stampings are priceya s he!!. I know they wanted over $500 for a replacement 38" deck for my old JD180........which was worn paper thin at the backside of the deck all along where the blades slung dirt and debri etc. You could put your fingers through it in some spots it was worn and eroded so thin. I saved the $$$ and cut the old thin stuff out, and saved the bottom lip of the deck and mig welded in a new piece about 3" wide the entire backside of the deck, and ground down the welds, and painted it, and you cold not tell it was ever repaired...........just like new. Took about 4 hours of my time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Originally posted by Chipmaker
Even if it was torn or cracked its still fixable. You can do a alot with a decent piece of steel and alsmost any repair will make it ijust as strong as a new one wold be.........if you were in the area I would just tell you to bring it on by the shop and we could easily fix it........sight unseen, as there is not much you can't do to a piece of steel to make it right...........

Bare deck stampings are priceya s he!!. I know they wanted over $500 for a replacement 38" deck for my old JD180........which was worn paper thin at the backside of the deck all along where the blades slung dirt and debri etc. You could put your fingers through it in some spots it was worn and eroded so thin. I saved the $$$ and cut the old thin stuff out, and saved the bottom lip of the deck and mig welded in a new piece about 3" wide the entire backside of the deck, and ground down the welds, and painted it, and you cold not tell it was ever repaired...........just like new. Took about 4 hours of my time.
Thanks for the encouragement. :thumbsup: I noticed today that there were a few spots that were completely free of grass buildup and were like polished stainless steel. I bet these are the areas that will eventually wear through.
 

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I noticed some shiny spots like that on my 38" deck. Plus there is a gouge where the blade hit the deck after I caught a tree root against the front right next to the discharge chute the first time I used it. :argh: The blade clearance to the deck is smaller than on my old mower. I guess that helps it cut better.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Plus there is a gouge where the blade hit the deck after I caught a tree root against the front right next to the discharge chute the first time I used it.

That's what I call "breaking it in quick", Mark. :lmao:
 

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Originally posted by MowHoward2210

That's what I call "breaking it in quick", Mark. :lmao:
The neighbors were setting on the front porch watching during the incident. They also watched as I brought a hatchet from the shed and chopped the root out. The health of my tree was not of great concern at that moment. They never left out a peep. The hatchet in my hand and my state of mind at the time must have frightened them. :lmao:

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Originally posted by memmurphy
The neighbors were setting on the front porch watching during the incident. They also watched as I brought a hatchet from the shed and chopped the root out. The health of my tree was not of great concern at that moment. They never left out a peep. The hatchet in my hand and my state of mind at the time must have frightened them. :lmao:

Mark
It's probably a good thing they didn't say anything! :furious: :furious:

BTW I bought a replacement spindle today. The partsman at JD said you can't buy the spindle housing only, it comes as a unit. I thought oh great, I might as well bend over now. Well it turned out it is just the housing and the bearings, and does not include the shaft with the grease fitting. It was $35, and at least I didn't have to hassle with taking bearings out, and pressing them back in. It was also good that I could use the old shaft. So I guess I'm only a little pissed about not being able to get the housing only.
 

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Mow,
Im sure you already did this , roll the spindle on a true flat surface to check for bend/distoration, ie. out of round.
Dean
 

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Thats not a bad price for the housing especially if it contained the bearings.......THe local JD dealer here used to charge 75 bucks for a housing for the JD180.........and $18 for each bearing........and a complete spindle assembly housing, bearings and spindle would set you back a good $150........If I cold have bought spindle housings for that price I would not have taken the time to cast my own back then, but I did come up with one great design that worked great and was bullet proof........someitmes I wished I kept that old JD 180 for the rough cutting and brush areas.

Yep the shiney areas you see on the deck bottom, will overtime get thinner and thinner,. A lot has to do with the type soils you have as well., Mine are sandy, so that wear area from the blades was always being abrasive blasted each time you used it.

You would be surprised at how thin decks are in a lot of places. Just because a deck is stamped out of say a piece of 10 ga or 7 ga material does not mean its gonna be that gage steel over the entire area. The steel has to be strethched and shrunk n the press die, and in some of the areas its barely equal to 16 ga, from being drawn and stretched to shape. What folks generally see are the flat sides or ends of the deck and oh and ah at just ow thick that piece of steel is, unfortunately that entire deck is gonna vary quite a bit in lots of areas........
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Chipmaker, Sixchows, Chief and the other competent "metal guys" don't read this. You'll probably cringe.


I finally got around to fixing my deck spindle mounting area. I was in a pinch (I don't actually live at my acreage yet) so I tackled the repair with a 3lb hammer and a a piece of wood. I leaned the deck up against the vertical bumper strips on my Wagoneer, which worked great. The wood proved worthless, so I just used the hammer and adjusted the damaged area by sight, feel, and a square. I also would temporararily place the spindle and shaft with blade attached to see the plane of the blade in relation to the other two blades.

I finally got it to where the spindle would seat all the way around, and to where the shaft axis was perpendicular to the deck. I got the middle (where the damage was) blade to be perfectly even with blade next to it. It lines up with the other blade with a little less than an eight of an inch difference. If you eyeball the horizontal plane of the 6" pulley, it is off about 3/32" from one end to the other, using the top front of the deck for a sight reference.

I took it out to mow, and it cut great like it always did and the deck seemed balanced.

I realize I probably should have waited to procure the right tools for the job, but I didn't for time reasons. The area that I repaired is recessed for the spindles and was real PITA to repair. Should I worry about the axis of the spindle appearing to be off ever so slightly or just leave it alone?
 

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What ever works at the moment:D Thats what i always say:lmao:
 

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IMHO you should keep an eye on it for awhile. If it is going to shift under load it will probably happen during the first couple of times it's under load....... or the first time you hit something.

find something now to use a reference that can be measured, such as the blade to blade offset you measured and record it. Then if you think it is moving, you can recheck the measurement and see how much you have lost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Thanks, Jim. I had planned to pull the deck off after the next time I mow to check and retighten the spindle nuts. I hadn't thought about remeasuring.
 

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If I had done that on our old Wagoneer, I would have needed a scoop shovel to clean the rust off the floor. :D

Just keep an eye on it for belt chafing and any alignment changes for a while. It will probably last as long as the rest of the deck providing you keep it off the stumps. :)

Mark
 
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