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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I cut down a lot of Locust trees last year on the back 12 acres of my property. This area is occasionally mowed or topped off with a Rotary Cutter, and the only finish mowing I do is path to an area to and around my pond.

Today I decided to finish mow a new path along my creek. I found one of the Locust tree stumps:

<img src=http://www.homepage.mac.com/userosx/.Pictures/bs.JPG>

What's even worse, is the the flush indentations on the mower deck where this spindle bolts on is bent a little bit by one of the bolt holes, so when the spindle is seated, it and the blade shaft are at a slight angle. Any suggestions on how to beat back the bent mounting area on the deck?
 

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Hammer and dolly just like any metal work. If you're not familiar with using a body hammer and a dolly, you need to start out by working in an offset fashion. That is, you place the dolly under the part that is still straight and put pressure upward while you carefully hammer the high spot down. Continue working from both ends to the middle until you get the area back to where it should be.

If you just back up the high spot with the dolly and beat it back down, you will more than likely strech the metal and then you will need to shrink it with a torch and water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by sixchows
Hammer and dolly just like any metal work. If you're not familiar with using a body hammer and a dolly, you need to start out by working in an offset fashion. That is, you place the dolly under the part that is still straight and put pressure upward while you carefully hammer the high spot down. Continue working from both ends to the middle until you get the area back to where it should be.

If you just back up the high spot with the dolly and beat it back down, you will more than likely strech the metal and then you will need to shrink it with a torch and water.
What type of dolly. There are different types, right?
 

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Dolly

A blonde one about 28 years old, 38-24-36 would work well.
 

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You could use the hammer and dolly method, o just a hammer and an opposing heavy weight, be it another hammer, chunck of steel or such. You could also use a flat piece of steel or angle iron, and drill a hole in it, to fit the bolt hole in the deck, make a spacer to fit between this piece of steel and the deck, insert bolt and nut and use it like a lever to work the metal back to position. I have hit a ton of stumps and snags over the years and at most maybe bent a blade (mostly with my new GX335 JD) or threw or broke a belt, but never seen a spindle housing assembly bust like that, even when I hit a 2" piece of pipe that was stickin up out of the ground and was embeded in concrete. Are you sure your spindle housings are tight and secure to the deck?
 

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Mow
Chip's method sounds good too! Would make strecthing the metal less likely.

If you do get a dolly ( I like slips version!) get what's called a toe dolly. They are about 4-5" long and about 2 1/2" wide. One side is perfectly flat and the other very slightly domed. Use the flat side and wear safety glasses. Sometimes the cheaper dollies that you find in an autoparts store will chip.
 

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Whatever you do especially if you use a dolly is do not strike the dollys surface with a hammer. Not only will el cheapo dollies chip and spawl off but sos will the best made ones. They are made and hardened pretty darn hard, and a hard blow directly on these dollys can make em spawl.........Just like taking a hamamer in each hand and whacking each hamers face together or using a hatchet in a confined space like removing roots and hgitting the hatchets head with a hammer to make it cut. I just basicallt banged two hammers together one day when I was a kid (not cheap hammers, but the good old True Temper Rocket, best inits day) and a piece chipped off and hit me in the knuckle and another hit me in my inside of my elbow joint in the arm........had to go to the doctor to get the pieces removed, it was just like shrapnel. So wear gloves and safety glasses like six chows suggested and don;t hit that dolly or any other hardened surface on other tools etc with another hardened or hard surfaced tool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. I'll check on a new spindle housing tommorow and try to get back up to my property later in the week to work on the deck and mount the new part.

Chipmaker, the mounting bolts were tight when I took the spindle off. When the housing fractured and the deck surface bent, it put the pulley shaft at an angle which made the blade attached to hit the other blade beside it, just barely. It made a good racket, kind of like a fan hitting a shroud.
 

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If I am not mistaken, that mower deck is 7 gauge steel. It is a single stamped out piece. We are better be talking about a BIG sledge hammer and big dolly. I would suggest removing the mower deck from the tractor and then placing some 6 x 6 blocks underneith and then try to hammer the bent area back into positon with a 8 lb. or larger hammer. Try running this question by the dealer. I bet they have repaired something like this before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by Chief
If I am not mistaken, that mower deck is 7 gauge steel. It is a single stamped out piece. We are better be talking about a BIG sledge hammer and big dolly. I would suggest removing the mower deck from the tractor and then placing some 6 x 6 blocks underneith and then try to hammer the bent area back into positon with a 8 lb. or larger hammer. Try running this question by the dealer. I bet they have repaired something like this before.
Not sure about the thickness, Chief. It doesn't seem like 7 guage, but I'm not where I can go look at it. It is not a "7 Iron" deck, and oddly enough, I don't see the 62" MMM offered on the 2210 at JD's website, so I can look at the specs. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Originally posted by Chief
Sorry to read about your misfortune Mow. I sure hope you can get it repaired on the cheap.
You might be able to substitute "a case of the dumb*ss" for "misfortune", Chief. :D
 

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We all have had a case of that at some point. :D ;) I guess you are looking for a small rotary cutter now? Better to cut grown up areas with something like that.
 

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Mow
Do they sell just the deck shell in case you're not happy with the repair? Maybe you can just transfer all the parts over to a new shell? I know this isn't something you want to hear but that might be the worst case scenario, hopefully not necessary. Good luck anyway!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Originally posted by Chief
We all have had a case of that at some point. :D ;) I guess you are looking for a small rotary cutter now? Better to cut grown up areas with something like that.
I got an LX4 awhile back. I was going over an area that been cut with the LX4 to make a more "finished" path along my creek. Next time I''l drive back to the barn and get the RC. :)

Here's a pic of the LX4
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Originally posted by sixchows
Mow
Do they sell just the deck shell in case you're not happy with the repair? Maybe you can just transfer all the parts over to a new shell? I know this isn't something you want to hear but that might be the worst case scenario, hopefully not necessary. Good luck anyway!
Not sure, but being that it is painted yellow, I'd be afraid to price it! I am concerned about maintaining the great cut quality. The damage is on the middle blade assembly. The bend in the deck is really not as bad as I probably made it sound. It seems to be a small deflection were the broken piece was bolted on. But it is enough to affect the shaft angle. I'll be happy if I can get it reasonably close. I don't think it really has to be mic'd into spec, but I hope I can get it real close.
 
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