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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've become a real fan of Oregon's G6 Series of blades this Spring. As a matter of fact, I've decided that is the only blades I will install for customers moving forward. They are top of the line, "commercial blades" and are the best blades on the market right now in my opinion. They are really HD blades at 3" wide, and .250 thick. They are also super hard, so they stay sharp, and last forever. I get a really good wholesale price from my local supplier, but they aren't really all that bad even at retail prices on the internet for what you're getting in the way of a blade. They make a beautiful cut, even in the thickest grass. If you're in the market for a new set of blades this season, I highly recommend you give the G6 series Oregon blades a try. I think you'll be impressed, every customer that I've installed a set on their machine so far this Spring loves them. I'm probably going to be beating myself out of $$$ on sharpening blades, but I hate that job anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here's a link to Oregon's propaganda sheet on their "Gator Blades" and it gives a nice comparison between the three levels of blades they offer (G3, G5, G6). It also has a Part Finder section, if you're looking for a set of Oregon blades for your machine. All Oregon blades are "30/30"...... 30 degrees on the cutting edge, 30 degrees on the airlift angle. Just for comparison, I weighed a 21" G3 blade and 18" G6 blade on my postal scales yesterday.
21" G3 = 2.5lbs 18" G6 = 3.4lbs.
3" shorter, but yet almost 1lbs heavier. They are some stout blades, you'll notice the difference the 1st time you pick them. My guess is they'll last 3 times as long as an OEM blade:cool:

Gator Mulching Blades | Oregon Products
 

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I don't use Gator Mulcher blades because I don't mow my lawns frequently and the Gator Blades tend to windrow the grass. I use the regular ones (Oregon) on my 60" zero turn.

Don't like mowing lawns anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
With the Summer humidity down here in MS, if you don't mow at least once a week, you might as well just plan on baling it. We mow down here 8 months a year (early March to late November) Almost any blade will "windrow" if the grass is 6" tall when you finally getting around to mowing. All of the lawn service guys I know around here use mulching blades, but once again, they service customers once a week. One of the tricks to NOT leave windrows if you don't mow that often is to fabricate a much shorter metal discharge chute to replace the plastic "Plow Wings" the OEM's install (for liability purposes) and only run about 10-15 degrees of backward angle to it. They're actually "rock deflectors" and the critical angle is downward deflection, not backwards. Professional lawn guys hate those giant plastic chutes because it makes them use a string trimmer more in places where they can't get in tight with the left side of the deck and it's a guaranteed PITA if you're loading a machine onto a trailer a dozen times a day.
 

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I've been using the G5 blades on Bob's recommendation on my Cub GT50 and they are awesome! Now if I had an alternative for Cub's mulch kit system, I'd be all set!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've been using the G5 blades on Bob's recommendation on my Cub GT50 and they are awesome! Now if I had an alternative for Cub's mulch kit system, I'd be all set!
Thanks MM.... The G6 blades are probably overkill on your Cub. They are the ticket on Z-turns
 

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Thanks MM.... The G6 blades are probably overkill on your Cub. They are the ticket on Z-turns
I just spent an hour scraping the underside of my 3 blade 50" Cub stamped deck! Did not think it would be as bad as it was. I'm thinking the key to minimizing buildup must be to ONLY cut grass in later afternoon when it is TOTALLY dry? The washout system does not seem to be effective and maybe makes the problem worse by getting everything all wet?
 
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