Old dodge charging system

2921 Views 29 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Ingersoll444, Feb 29, 2004

Ingersoll444

Discussion Starter · Dec 6, 2003

Got my 74 Dodge powerwagon running today to plow some snow. I is running OK, but the charging system is not working. Anyone know anything about the older Mopars, and could kind of walk me through finding the problem. I realy need to get this going. I have almost two feet now, and still snowing.

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Michael

· #2 · Dec 28, 2003 (Edited)

Ingersoll, you still having problems with the charginging system? I used to work on the old systems all the time and they are easy to figure out.
First take the alternator off and run to the parts house and have it tested. If itr test out bad it is the alternator , you will need a rebuilt, if it tested out good put alternator back on.
If the alternator tested good, more then likely your voltage regulator has gone bad. These were a early solid state and known to go bad. The regulator are most of the time located on the firewall and generally have a chome finish and about 6" X 7" oblong with a black locking plug located towards the center or slightly lower on it.
If your alternator is bad always replace the regulator with it as the old alternator will fry the transisitors in the regulator.

One other item to check is the ballast resistor on the fire wall.
The ballast resister is about 4 ' long by about a inch and half wide and generally located on the drivers side over the steering column. If it has 2 wires on each side of the resistor, one of the wires is for the coil and the other is for your charging system. Most of the time when these resistors go they will not allow your engine to start but it will crank forever, just no start. Because of the location of these resistors they are easily damaged by water running down the firewall.

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Ingersoll444

Discussion Starter · #3 · Dec 28, 2003

Thank you for the tips.

I knew about the starting problems caused by the BR, but did not know the other side was for the charging system. Also the reg is a little rusty, I will check the ground on that first to see if thats the problem.

bear

· #4 · Dec 28, 2003

you can leave everything on undo the green feild wwire and ground the tab if it charges its your regulator if it doesn't its your alternator

Ingersoll444

Discussion Starter · #5 · Dec 28, 2003

Originally posted by bear
you can leave everything on undo the green feild wwire and ground the tab if it charges its your regulator if it doesn't its your alternator

OK, let me see if I got this right. Remove the green feild wire from the alt, and jump the tab on the alt to ground. Is that right? That should cause it to go to full field then right? I am assumeing that a few min of that is not that hard on the alt? Can I also assume that I should have around 12volts to at the other feild wire when it is running?

Thanks for the tips.

bear

· #6 · Dec 28, 2003

yes that full feilds the alternator you should get around 14 volts at the battery post of the alternator

Michael

· #7 · Dec 29, 2003

Yes, thats right but do not go full field more then 3-5 minutes or you will short out the diode pack inside the alternator.
which engine do you have in your PowerWagon? The slant 6, the 318, or 360 or the big block 400, 440?

Ingersoll444

Discussion Starter · #8 · Dec 29, 2003

Originally posted by Michael
Yes, thats right but do not go full field more then 3-5 minutes or you will short out the diode pack inside the alternator.
which engine do you have in your PowerWagon? The slant 6, the 318, or 360 or the big block 400, 440?

318

Michael

· #9 · Dec 31, 2003

The reason is that if it has air conditioning it runs a twin pulley alternator which is higher output then the standard alternator. If your truck has no a/c. and the alternator fails testing I would recommend the higher output because of the snowplow. The parts house should have several options available that all will fit either with a single or double pulley. Go for the highest output you can afford for it.

bear

· #10 · Jan 30, 2004

paul. how did the test go was it alternator or just the regulator? just curious

Ingersoll444

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jan 31, 2004

Originally posted by bear
paul. how did the test go was it alternator or just the regulator? just curious

Well, Got to say, with the freezing cold we have had, and realy not that much snow, I have not done anything to it. Kinda hoping it gets above 20 so I can go on out there and do something to it. Till then, I am just swapping batterys.

Ed_GT5000

· #12 · Jan 31, 2004

has any one here had dealings with a lean-burn unit. We put one on a 85 dodge pickup with a slant 6 and it has not run right since.

bear

· #13 · Jan 31, 2004

i have 87 doge with slant 6 took the lean burn off have carb on it from 68 dodge and point distrubotor. works great now just have a bunch of spare wires going nowhere

Ed_GT5000

· #14 · Jan 31, 2004

I heard the lean burns were junk. I have a guy taking the truck back to the shop. The lean burn was $200. I will know more about it on monday. The truck is a beater and hate to keep puyying money in it.

Ingersoll444

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jan 31, 2004

Originally posted by Ed_GT5000
has any one here had dealings with a lean-burn unit. We put one on a 85 dodge pickup with a slant 6 and it has not run right since.

OMG they were JUNK!!!!!!!!

Mom had a 76 Charger with one on a 400. Almost undrivable. Kept going back to the dealer to get it fixed, and they could not do anything for us. Finly My step dad popped and old distributer, and carb on from an older motor, and never had a problem.

bear

· #16 · Jan 31, 2004

ed just go to wrecker and buy carb and point type distributor or try ag wrecker a lot of older combines and sp swathers had the slant 6

Ingersoll444

Discussion Starter · #17 · Feb 1, 2004

Originally posted by bear
ed just go to wrecker and buy carb and point type distributor or try ag wrecker a lot of older combines and sp swathers had the slant 6

I would pass on the points. The early Mopar elect distributors were a nice unit. I think 72 was the year they changed away from points.

bear

· #18 · Feb 1, 2004

elect is nicer i just used the point dist. because i had one in my spare parts line

Ingersoll444

Discussion Starter · #19 · Feb 8, 2004

Well, had a little time yesterday, and the temps were not THAT bad, so I did a little work on the old truck. I jumped the alt's feild ground to ground, and she carged right up. OK, got to be the reg. Pulled it off the firewall, and the back of it is ozzing all over. Loks like she burned up a bit. Well, $17 later, and about 10 min, I have a working charging system. YAAAAAA!!!

:hooray:

Now that that is working I need to rig up some plow lights, and get the wipers working. Figured why bother before, I did not have the power to run them.

Michael

· #20 · Feb 8, 2004

So you got off really well on the fixing of the charging system. The old Dodge was really easy to work on, if you know what to look for. My old 73 Duster 340 is harder only because it is a lot tighter to work under but with only 31,000 miles she is a keeper. I bought it new and have had it ever since. The best part is it will really kick some ricer a$$ in a straight line.cruisin I do not drive it much my old 90 and 94 Plymouth Acclaims are the daily dfrivers. Then I have my 2 Dodge trucks, maybe I should think about getting rid of some of my collection(NAH):blacksuit

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