I can tell you that the FRAM PH4967 also fits a 1994 Geo Prizm/Toyota Corrolla. I worked at Autolite/Fram (AlliedSignal) for a few years as a product manager. I remember when we went through a redesign, that filter range got narrowed further.
Leolav, might be a stupid question --- I often see different sized oil filters for the same car/truck application. As long as the threads are the same, why the need for all of the 10000s of different models/brands/prices for filters? Does it have to do with the engineering specs on the oil pump flow rate, oil pressure, filter material/composition/quality and/or location of filter? You would think most modern cars are somewhat within spec of each other to some degree. Well, just some FP ramblings.. I guess.
Not a stupid question at all. The reason why is that each manufacturer has specs for oil volume, filter location and in general the quality of the filter media. Oil capacity also comes into play often. More oil generally means more filter media as the increased oil volume=the need for more filtering media you need to keep the oil clean. Also, some manufacturers also spec sophisticated bypass valves (VW, Audi, BMW) for cold startup, while others don't.
There is a big push to "generalize" both filters and plugs, but the car manufacturers are going that way within their own line only.
Depends on brands and how lenient they are to holding true to original filter designs. I know Fram, Purolator and Wix all stay to OE designs fairly closely. Once you move our of those three brands, the cross references get broader and broader.
Stick with a brand name or a store brand/private label made by one of these guys and you should do OK.
Jodyand...I was wondering about the oil filter, so I too am glad you left this here. I asked the salesman about it and he said the fillters were like $9 each, and then he mentioned the warranty issue with using another brand of filter. I can understand that, as it seems fair I guess.
Anyway, I was looking for info on the Kawasaki 15 HP V-twin, and found a FH430V and a FH451V. They both seem to be very comparable, except for the 430 being 431cc's while the 451 is 494 cc's.
Does anyone know the major differences between these two engines, and is the FH430V the one in the CC 1525?
If the salesman is telling you that by using a oil filter or any other part is going to possibly give you problems if you have a warranty claim, you need to tell him he is totally wrong and I would go else where as he is feeding you a bunch of bull$hit. As long as a filter or oil etc meets OEM specs, they can be used. Its against some law that was passed that ruled against manufacturers dictating that only their parts could be used. Why pay double or triple the price for a filter thats essentially the same thing.
I too was due for my 5 hour oil change. So I went to the auto parts store tonight to get an oil filter. Sears DGT6000 w/ 27hp Kohler. OEM filter $15.00 . 'Car' filters $4 - $7 bucks.
I took the WIX #51348 cross reference since I was going to Autozone (nappa closed) any way came up with the following additional cross references:
Fram TG3614 or
AC Delco PF53
As I was checking them out I thought I would try to find the 'longest' filter that had the same base size and threads as the one above. I matched base size, thread type and count and the number of drain back holes and placement of drain back holes. I found:
I thought that the longer filter will give more oil volume and all
the benefits associated with ... cooler oil, longer lasting between changes, better filtration from more filtering surface area etc...
I have the clearance on the tractor (DGT6000 with 27 HP Kohler) and I'll check this weekend before screwing it on real closely. I'll also check the oil level and keep track of how much I put in total.
Question is - If it all matches up and spins on fine is there any reason NOT to use the longest filter that will fit the tractor?
The stock filter measures approx. 3.5"
The longer one measures approx. 4.75"
Seems just like stepping up from the short Kohler to the 52 0502 only taking it one step longer.
What do you guys think? Should/can I run the longest filter possible?
All filters are not built, designed or manufactured the same.
While I am in full agreement for allowing anyone to put anything they want on their ride, I will say that some brands are simply superior regardless of what minimum specifications they may or not meet. This is simply my opinion and therefore I will continue to use OEM parts if I can get a fair price in quantity to continue to do so. Will I pay $15 for a filter? No. But if in quantity (like i used to with my Toyota OEM filters) I got them for same or less than off-the-shelf low end junk filters.
I had my local store cross reference a filter for me. I found out that the cheap brand that was supposed to be the same did not have the by pass valve in it. so If my filter would have pluged It would have blew out the filter instead of bypassing like it should.
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