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2021 Kioti NX5010 HST CAB
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Well this is my first rough cut mower. Guess i did the job on these blades. I hit 3 rocks but i was cutting up old mulch that was done last year. To my surprise when i parked and clean things up i almost had a stroke when i seen these. 😆
This was after 2-3 hrs use. My question is….Is there a good set of blade out there that a person can get…ie. hardened or something. I have done mulching and owned a Heavy Duty rotary cutter made by Davco Manufacturing the type that get used on a CTL But i never seen anything like this before. It was like these blades were made outta aluminum to fold over like they did.Cheap steel i guess. I know I cheaped out and didn’t get a brand name one ie.Deere Landpride Bush Hogg. This unit is from where else,China and Beco has their name on it. It almost looks like a King Cutter Painted Red. Actually i think it is.
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Well this is my first rough cut mower. Guess i did the job on these blades. I hit 3 rocks but i was cutting up old mulch that was done last year. To my surprise when i parked and clean things up i almost had a stroke when i seen these. 😆
This was after 2-3 hrs use. My question is….Is there a good set of blade out there that a person can get…ie. hardened or something. I have done mulching and owned a Heavy Duty rotary cutter made by Davco Manufacturing the type that get used on a CTL But i never seen anything like this before. It was like these blades were made outta aluminum to fold over like they did.Cheap steel i guess. I know I cheaped out and didn’t get a brand name one ie.Deere Landpride Bush Hogg. This unit is from where else,China and Beco has their name on it. It almost looks like a King Cutter Painted Red. Actually i think it is.
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cold peen the edges back into shape and use .
 

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After beating straight, I'd sharpen, stack together to be sure they're straight, all the same. Balance them. Heat ends to red & dunk in ice water.

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk
Heat red hot and dunk in cool trans fluid oil. This will temper better and help prevent corrosion.
If you have filtered used trans oil, this is a good re-purpose use.
 

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Hello, folks. Apologies first, because I still need to formally introduce myself to everyone somewhere on here; but I just wanted to mention something that all of us who are the mechanically self-reliant types might forget to consider and overlook because of our own enthusiasm we put into our penchant for design improvements to various products that we believe have performance/poor design that need upgrading. My dad was a professional welder and Journeyman sheet metal worker that could always handle any mechanical/electrical task at hand. But one day I stopped by his home shop and he proudly showed me his just completed project of that morning; he had suffered the same sort of damage to six mower blades and in short order expertly welded some high carbon tooling to each cutting edge. Those machine tooling cutters had been kicking around that shop since I was a kid and had been taken off some sort of joiner type wood working machine. They were about ¾ inch wide and 6 inches long. Well, his complexion turned ashen when I mentioned they could disintegrate into shrapnel when striking an object. I knew the faces of his grandchildren had immediately come to his mind and his demeanor reflected that he had possibly avoided a tragedy. A second opinion never hurts when moving parts are involved. Those factory blades are performing exactly as designed and should not in the most extreme impacts at high speeds disintegrate and shed lethal projectiles.
 

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G'day,

Many years ago neighbours asked me to slash long grass in a paddock behind their house for summer fire prevention. They failed to tell me about various large blue stone [basalt] rocks in the paddock and I - stupid me - failed to ask if they had checked for obstructions. After about 20 yards driving my MF 35 with slasher/bush hog on the back I hit an immovable lump of basalt and a blade snapped completely off. I never found the broken piece. After consideration I replaced the original long one piece blades with shorter mild steel inner blade arms [1/2 inch thick X 2.5" wide] to which I attached with high tensile bolts mild steel outer blades made of 1/4 inch X 2" stock plate each about 6" long. I found that the outer cutting blades did in fact cut long grass well, but pivoted and even bent nicely as planned when I hit a large rock. I always carried a spare set of out blades and replaced any bent blade easily out in the fields when necessary. I suspect having the articulated arms and blades, each with two pivot points, made rock strikes less stressful overall for the machine. Bent outer blades were generally hammered straight, resharpened and used again. They were cheap and designed to be expendable and safer.

Jim
 

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Hello, folks. Apologies first, because I still need to formally introduce myself to everyone somewhere on here; but I just wanted to mention something that all of us who are the mechanically speeds disintegrate and shed lethal projectiles.
This post reads like something a bureaucrat in an office in DC would have written. If your dad was truely a welder he would have known not to weld on hardenable steel. And the part about the grand children was especially cute.
But you are not incorrect.

The guy bought a low end rotary mower and wrecked the blades. If the blades weren't so soft and cheap it would have wrecked the gearbox.
Be glad it didn't
Replace them as you will never get them balanced again.
And don't weld or heat or quench on them.
 
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