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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well I had to move my N yesterday, and after I started it, I could not get the 3PH to lift. Now it was REAL cold, is this normal? I did drive it around for a bit, but not that long, to try to get the fluid moving. Could the fluid be just to thick? Also I could lift the arms up myself. I have never try this before so I don;t know if I should be able to, or is something busted?
 

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How to troubleshoot N hydraulic lift problems

Paul,
Maybe I should send you a rebuild kit or relief valve for your 8N as your 10,000th post prize! :D :clap: --- Well, the cold could have an effect if it contaminated with water getting into it via the shifter, (cap around shifter base not in place) --- then freezing and could cause problems --- I have seen it freeze completely a transmission. If the dipstick (under the position control) shows a milky color fluid, then you got water in there (if it is not frozen, then you might have a popsickle) --- If changing the fluid, remember these guidelines:

:fineprint:
Ford/New Holland now recommends 5 gallons of M2C-134D hydraulic/tranny fluid. Drain all 3 drains, 1 fill up by tranny shifter. Yes, you can still use the 60 yr old recommended 90 wt gear oil if you can find it. DO NOT USE differential oil. It will eat your hydraulic pump valves.

Also --- make sure your lift control is in the vertical position (lever under the seat) --- horizontal is draft for plowing.

If you want to inspect the pump unit for troubleshooting/repair:

You should first take off the right hand inspection plate under the seat on the side of the lift housing. Put tractor in neutral, and keep it there - with an implement (preferably not a bushhog or finish mower) on the lift start the engine and with the lift in the up position look inside and see if their is oil leaking from the end of the lift ram cylinder. (this part of the pump resembles a rocker arm on a push valve engine. This rocker arm opens and closes your hyd fluid intake and exhaust cylinders. If you see spraying from one of the cylinders when arm is in the up, fixed position (easier to see if you arre lifting an implement), you have an exhaust leak which is common. KEEP YOUR HANDS OUTTA THERE!

Time to rebuild pump! :clap:

If their is only a slight drip this is normal.If their is a fairly steady stream this may be the trouble.If the oil is coming from somewhere else try to pin point its origin. If you find no appreciable leaks on top in your view then you may have a pressure relief valve leaking. It is located just under the pto shaft on the vertical back of the pump. It is shaped like a spark plug and an 11/16" box end wrench fits it. You can check it for leakage by first finding it with the engine off and then with the pump running and with a load and hot put your finger over the end of the relief valve and if it is leaking enough to be a problem you will be able to feel the oil push your finger off the end of the valve slightly.You can check it by washing it up and then soaping it real good with some dishwashing detergent and water and apply air to the end that goes into the pump. If it is leaking you should replace it with a new one. The part # is 8N638 and might be good to replace in any case.

I hope this will give you some starting places.

Let me know
:cheers:

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey, Thanks for the help. Well it is a little milky, so I bet thats it. Now whats the chance that when it warms up, it will work, or did I do permint damange?
 

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Hopefully no permanent damage ---- but ice in the oil will definately cause the symptoms you are describing. Could have blown the relief valve or a gasket too with the overload.
Do the side plate inspection if all else fails and look for leaks. I have seen the gasket under the lift cylinder blow lots of times. If that is the case you will have a gusher up top.

Warm up the tractor, drive around to get the fluid warm (tranny)
and the drain the fluid as stated in last post. One additional thing --- while you are at it, clean it all out if you are going to drain it ---- While you have it dry it is a messy but simple business to pull the PTO shaft--four bolt, one wrench ---and get your arm in there and clean the crud out of the sumps. (kind like being a proctologist I guess) :clap:

:fineprint
Keep in mind that most likely intrusion place for the water is the shifter boot-- cheap replacement part from dealer or online.

Paul........empty your sq diff plug first, unless you want oil all over your shop floor (don't ask) :D :D :D

Send me a PM if you want to talk on the phone.
Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the help Andy. I will see whats up with it when I bring it in the shop next. MAN!! I need a bigger shop!!!!! Or less projects:):)


Hope it's something simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Originally posted by admin
Any update on the slow lift issue on this 8N?

Andy
Well, you mean any thing other then looking out the window at it now and saying to myself "yup, bet it STILL does not work"???:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, today's a little warmer, and I have to yank some logs out of the woods to cut up for firewood, so we will see if it works today. I am kinda hoping that it was just something kinda stuck in the cold.:) :) :) Hey it could happan.

Will fill you all in later when I am done using it. Wish me luck.

If nothing else, it will at least let me know for sure if a rebuild is needed. Better to do it now, then to have to do it during the cutting season.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Originally posted by admin
So???????? Any insight today on Mr. No lifty????? ;)

Andy
WO HOOOOOO!~!!!!! Worked GREAT. I had three trees taken down yesterday morning, and had the guys leave all the big, firewood sized stuff there so I could burn it. I had to drag it to the splitter, so figure I would use the tractor. Lift worked fine. I used it to lift up the front of the logs a bit wile I draged them. :) :) :)
 
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