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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,
I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a new tractor and have pretty much narrowed it down to the following two. Assume they are the same price although the kubota is a little higher:
L3560DT 4wd with a loader
MF1835M 4wd with a loader
Both are gear but the Massey has a 3 range giving it 12x12 where the kubota has a 2 range giving it 8x8. Both dealers have been around a while and have good reviews and the distance between them is negligible. I looked at both machines today and liked them both. It seems the Massey has a higher lift capacity than the Kubota but Kubota seems to have a better overall reliability rating.
Any ideas, thoughts?
I'm working with a 1952 Ferguson 30 so either one would be a huge step.
Thanks for the input.
 

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Hello everyone,
I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a new tractor and have pretty much narrowed it down to the following two. Assume they are the same price although the kubota is a little higher:
L3560DT 4wd with a loader
MF1835M 4wd with a loader
Both are gear but the Massey has a 3 range giving it 12x12 where the kubota has a 2 range giving it 8x8. Both dealers have been around a while and have good reviews and the distance between them is negligible. I looked at both machines today and liked them both. It seems the Massey has a higher lift capacity than the Kubota but Kubota seems to have a better overall reliability rating.
Any ideas, thoughts?
I'm working with a 1952 Ferguson 30 so either one would be a huge step.
Thanks for the input.
Tractors are much like any other vehicles today. There are a zillion offerings and a zillion more if you add in options. Good luck. Both models you are looking at are excellent choices that will give many years of service. No one can choose for you. You will be spending a lot of slow seat time on a tractor, so pick one that gives the most comfortable operating position for you with the least neck strain looking backwards. Also factor in adequate lighting if you work after dark and location of controls.

I have a big advantage when choosing a tractor. With current budget restraints, any tractor for me must be a minimum of 50 years old which is before options, accessories and operator comfort.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Trust me, this will not be a decision made lightly. I guess no one can decide for me. Should I be worried about the regen and new emissions? The idea of buying new is this will be the last tractor purchase of my life. If I even get half the years as my Fergie I'll probably be long gone before it has reached the end.
 

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Also, it might be a good idea to get on them and try them out. I think the Kubota may have a single pedal for forward and reverse that you operate with your heel and toe. Some folks don't like that feature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, it reminded me of the footprint gas pedal from Joe Dirt. I'm leaning towards gear because it's all I have ever known.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Tractors are much like any other vehicles today. There are a zillion offerings and a zillion more if you add in options. Good luck. Both models you are looking at are excellent choices that will give many years of service. No one can choose for you. You will be spending a lot of slow seat time on a tractor, so pick one that gives the most comfortable operating position for you with the least neck strain looking backwards. Also factor in adequate lighting if you work after dark and location of controls.

I have a big advantage when choosing a tractor. With current budget restraints, any tractor for me must be a minimum of 50 years old which is before options, accessories and operator comfort.
I did find a 50 year old international 574 with a loader, diesel, 2800 hours. Looks to be in good shape, starts right up, but he's asking 6500.
 

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I did find a 50 year old international 574 with a loader, diesel, 2800 hours. Looks to be in good shape, starts right up, but he's asking 6500.
$6500 is right in the mid range of one with a FEL in good condition. 2800 hrs is in the low range for this model. Do a thorough inspection and by all means drive it checking for gear lash, clutch engagement, etc. If no major hyd leaks and everything works ok, it is probably a sound investment at that price. Take CASH. You can usually cut 3-500 off the price with cash in hand. Make sure you get a clean bill of sale.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It looked and ran good but I was kind of rushed when I was there looking at it. Didn't get a chance to pull the fluids so I made him a lowball offer which he promptly refused. It sold in 3 days. Everything around here that pops up is gone in less than a week.
 

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It looked and ran good but I was kind of rushed when I was there looking at it. Didn't get a chance to pull the fluids so I made him a lowball offer which he promptly refused. It sold in 3 days. Everything around here that pops up is gone in less than a week.
Keep trying. Eventually a deal will pop up. It took me over a year to find the right fit.
 
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If you end up going new and geared I would lean to the Maasy 12 sp over 8 depending on the speed in each gear and what your uses are going to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you end up going new and geared I would lean to the Maasy 12 sp over 8 depending on the speed in each gear and what your uses are going to be.
I'm definitely biased towards the Massey, just don't want the payments. I'm still holding out hope for a used deal.
 

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I'm definitely biased towards the Massey, just don't want the payments. I'm still holding out hope for a used deal.
I'm definitely biased towards the Massey, just don't want the payments. I'm still holding out hope for a used deal.
Keep track of used equipment at the local dealers. Anything over 6 months is ripe for a deal. Also keep tabs on used offerings at Tractorhouse, Fastline, Machinery Petes, etc. You can get real pricing vs equipment condition. You will probaby have to drop the FEL as these are usually parted out separatey. Hours don't mean much as they can be easily adjusted. Equipment condition and leaks tell a better tale. I actually prefer models with bad sheet metal. It is an easy cosmetic fix that does not affect operation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Still trying to find that used deal. I drove 3 hours to look at a MF 175 diesel said to be in great shape with pictures to prove. The price was great so I towed a trailer with cash in hand. Unfortunately the injectors were leaking so much diesel that I have no idea how there was any in the tank. The loader had welds and was rigged to the rear remotes making you hold the rear control back while trying to operate the loader. The 3 point arms would NOT lower even standing on them until the tractor shut off, and the tires were so bald and cracked that I have no idea how there was air in them. I took a hard pass.
Tomorrow I'm going to look at a 1973 MF 165 diesel. Again, looks good however it has the multi-power transmission. Is this a deal breaker? I have read a lot about them failing and was just wondering any experience or opinions on the multi-power.
Thank again,
Mike
 

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Still trying to find that used deal. I drove 3 hours to look at a MF 175 diesel said to be in great shape with pictures to prove. The price was great so I towed a trailer with cash in hand. Unfortunately the injectors were leaking so much diesel that I have no idea how there was any in the tank. The loader had welds and was rigged to the rear remotes making you hold the rear control back while trying to operate the loader. The 3 point arms would NOT lower even standing on them until the tractor shut off, and the tires were so bald and cracked that I have no idea how there was air in them. I took a hard pass.
Tomorrow I'm going to look at a 1973 MF 165 diesel. Again, looks good however it has the multi-power transmission. Is this a deal breaker? I have read a lot about them failing and was just wondering any experience or opinions on the multi-power.
Thank again,
Mike
I hate to admit it, but some tractor owners who do not maintain their equipment properly will misrepresent their equipment when it comes time to sell. To me, it is not just hiding stuff that is not up to standard, IT IS LYING ON A NOTORIZED COURT DOCUMENT. This can be prosecuted in District Court and recoup the total value of the sale, any court related costs and 12% interest from the date of sale. Not an easy process, but doable if the seller owns land that can be seized for payout on the signed agreement between buyer and seller.

I learned this on 2 vehicle transactions, but have not run into this on a tractor. I have been around tractors since I was 6 and Dad had a Ford dealership. Even did mechanical and painting in my teens. High school kids are the cheapest labor around. We would do anything for a buck.

One note. When I look at any type of used equipment, I carry a check sheet that covers every system so I do not forget anything when doing an inspection. I check everything from bent fins on the radiator, wiring condition and installation, battery date and condition, signs of proper greasing, and of course any leaks or drips. I have been known to carry a clean sheet of cardboard and place it under the tractor while running. I take the asking price then deduct an estimated cost for each difficient item. The final number is my counter offer. I will go 10% over my offer if the equipment and fluids are clean, but no more.

This has worked well for me over the years, mostly on cars or trucks. The only complaints I have received is from Dealers, wonder why that is, that I am not qualified to estimate questionable items. My response to that criticism is that that is what it is worrth to me and I am holding the cash for the purchase. The last tractor I bought was from a farmer on Craigs List. He was asking $4950, and we loaded it on the trailer at $3300. He asked what my top offer would have been after the deal was made. I showed him my estimate sheet and I did add the 10% due to conditiin of the fluids more than anything else. My top number was $3475. He asked at what number I would have walked away. I told him $3475, especially with the numbers of good used tractors on the market today. The dealers will also arrange economy shipping that is very reasonable.

Good Luck and do not give up too soon, especially at the locals where you can see what is not selling.

Before and after photos of the 1970 Ford 4000. The before photos do not show the rusted out sheet metal very well
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