Tractor Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all !! I just acquired this side distributor 8N tractor. I was told it ran last time it was parked about 8 to 12 years ago. By the looks of things I'd say it was more like 15 to 10 years sitting. The fuel tank is bone dry and rust free I know I will need to go through the wiring and replace the battery to attempt to get it running. Id really like to convert it to a 12 volt setup but I think I should attempt to get it running first. I have a friend with 2 of these and he swears we can get it running with minimal effort. Says they are rock solid tractors. He prefers removing the points ignition and using a pertronix ignition and either rebuilding the original carb or using an aftermarket carb. What kind of wisdom can you guys drop on me about these things that I may not have already read or seen ?? Attached is a picture of the old girl. If we can get it running my wife and kids really want to clean it up and repaint it. BTW I have no idea what the thought was behind the oil breather extension. 🤷‍♂️
 

Attachments

·
Administrator
Joined
·
11,185 Posts
An interesting tractor! Hopefully that long breather wasn't for hooking a barrel of oil to! LOL I think you are on the right track to get the tractor operational before spending money on electronic ignitions and 12 volt conversions. I'm sure the family will have fun with that good old tractor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
An interesting tractor! Hopefully that long breather wasn't for hooking a barrel of oil to! LOL I think you are on the right track to get the tractor operational before spending money on electronic ignitions and 12 volt conversions. I'm sure the family will have fun with that good old tractor.
Yeah I'm still scratching my head about the oil fill/breather 😂. I will attempt to get it to fire up before I go to far. Maybe file or swap out the points and plugs and see if I cant get it sputter some and maybe fire up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
I wouldn't mess with too much...It might surprize you and start up.

Has the rare front wheel weights.

Be aware....If its all stock original.....it is Positive Ground 6v.

Color of cables gets lots of guys in trouble as they have probly been changed at least once over the years.
Do lots of reading...they are simple.
Check for crack in the block above and forwards of the starter.

Mine is a 48 front dist.
Still 6v
Never touched the points.
Carb is simple.........Be aware if you mess with it...the mixture screws work backwards of most every other carb I've dealt with except some goofy Suzuki.
Generator on mine is toast but it runs for days on a fresh charged battery. Its just there to tension the fan belt.

more close up pics of each side of transmission area when you get a chance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Hey there Rookie!
It sounds as you have a wise buddy there - Get the old girl running and then start fixing things one point at a time (How about that for a pun!)

On that carb - use a temporary gas tank (to the carb) and then drop a squirt of engine oil (or Marvel Mystery Oil) into each cylinder ('cause 7 - 10 years is a long time without oil in those cylinders). Find a way to turn her over and carefully check for a 1/4" blue spark for each cylinder. If you can get her running then after that the fuel system is a great place to start cleaning and bringing things up to snuff.

The Ford FO-4 reprinted shop manual will help a lot and you can get it on line or from TSC or other farm stores.

Since the fuel tank sounds really good then start with the sediment bowl and go all the way to the carb. If the carb is nasty then carefully clean it like the old Drill Instructor would have liked and tune it up like new. (one in-fuel screen going into the sediment bowl and one screen just going into the carb.) Your new shop manual will be a good thing to use.

--- however --- as to even thinking of ordering a Chinesium replacement - may I suggest you deeply scratch that option right off the list. Beware the BAD JuJu on those retro-engineered pieces of XXXX (shiny aluminum). Do yourself a great service in doing what you can to get the old one back up and running.

Other things will manifest themselves as you go along but ONLY FIX ONE THING AT A TIME. Life will be better that way.

Ask away if you get stuck - We're all happy to help here.

Joe and Sally (1940 9N sn: 13030)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok so small victories for the time being. I was able to get the front wheel weights off the front wheels and get air in them. The RH side was flat as well as the RH rear tire. The rears have water in them and the valve core was rotted shut so I ordered a new core and got air in it too. My wife and daughter wants to decorate it for xmas so it seems my trying to get it running has been put on hold until after xmas.

I do not want to go the "chinesium" route I'd like to try to dial in the OEM carb first which also gives me an excuse to get an ultrasonic cleaner. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
I started out with a heated Harbour Freight Ultra Sonic unit and it is still kicking (right next to the all grown up one from the net,)
There is a technique that might help you:
Get an old plastic drink bottle that will fit into the cleaner (like a 2 liter water bottle) and cut the top off it to fit the height of the "Vib-o-Chamber" (be sure it holds all those old carb parts). Take the cleaning "stuff" of choice and put it in with the carb parts. Put the cut jug into the Ultrasonic cleaner and add hot water to cover the parts (to working height). Add just clear, hot water to the surrounding cleaning tank to the level of the fluid in the cut jug. COMMENCE THE CLEANING!
When done, drain just the clear, surrounding water and dispose of it. Save the cut jug and the cleaning fluid inside it for the next project. Only replace cut jug fluid when needed. 🙂 - Joe -
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
I started out with a heated Harbour Freight Ultra Sonic unit and it is still kicking (right next to the all grown up one from the net,)
There is a technique that might help you:
Get an old plastic drink bottle that will fit into the cleaner (like a 2 liter water bottle) and cut the top off it to fit the height of the "Vib-o-Chamber" (be sure it holds all those old carb parts). Take the cleaning "stuff" of choice and put it in with the carb parts. Put the cut jug into the Ultrasonic cleaner and add hot water to cover the parts (to working height). Add just clear, hot water to the surrounding cleaning tank to the level of the fluid in the cut jug. COMMENCE THE CLEANING!
When done, drain just the clear, surrounding water and dispose of it. Save the cut jug and the cleaning fluid for the next project. Only replace cut jug fluid when needed. 🙂 - Joe -
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,403 Posts
I started out with a heated Harbour Freight Ultra Sonic unit and it is still kicking (right next to the all grown up one from the net,)
There is a technique that might help you:
Get an old plastic drink bottle that will fit into the cleaner (like a 2 liter water bottle) and cut the top off it to fit the height of the "Vib-o-Chamber" (be sure it holds all those old carb parts). Take the cleaning "stuff" of choice and put it in with the carb parts. Put the cut jug into the Ultrasonic cleaner and add hot water to cover the parts (to working height). Add just clear, hot water to the surrounding cleaning tank to the level of the fluid in the cut jug. COMMENCE THE CLEANING!
When done, drain just the clear, surrounding water and dispose of it. Save the cut jug and the cleaning fluid for the next project. Only replace cut jug fluid when needed. 🙂 - Joe -
I got an old H-F Ultrasonic cleaner. Seafoam is the fluid of choice. Even for injectors. :)
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top