Lots of cleaning and power washing... and found a few wire wheels in a drill do some amazing work to cut the thick grime, then rinse and repeat.... I was even able to get the belly cleaned.

There are a few spots I couldn't get to, but most of it came off. I then primed it before paint.

Then added a few coats of paint.

Since all this was going well, (and feeling motivated) I decided to paint the rear rims. Just wire wheel the loose stuff and rust, taping, primer, and paint... nothing fancy til I have to buy tires. The tire shop wanted $50/rim to bust them loose!!! Not today guys.

It started looking so good I went out and got a new seat. I've got to figure out how I'm going to mount the toolbox back on the back of the seat.

I should be getting some front end parts back from sandblasting at the beginning of the week for reassembly.

 

Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaang.......... Starting to look really sharp there!

 

another great looking blue tractor coming on scene, be good to see the finished restore.

 

We have a toolbox mounted to the right fender on a bracket

 

Thanks for the compliments guys.

I've seen them mounted on fenders too while looking at pics on internet. Thanks for the suggestion. Any thoughts why they were not in a standard location?

 

I got all the pieces back from the sandblaster. Time to start priming, painting and reassembly.

 

Well I got the pieces primered and painted and began reassembly. I pressed the steering bushings back in to find out they are not the correct height (part). Original PN c5nn3179a was inch in height where the new reproduction bushing is about 1 1/4" in height, PN c5nn3179b. It doesn't leave enough room to slide the steering arm in.
The bushing sits out of the hole pressed all the way to the bottom. I'm going to try the local Ag stores, hopefully they carry them in stock so I can continue the front end build before the block and head are ready to pick up this week. Otherwise, it's a week waiting for them to show up.
And all this time I thought Ford super-seeded there rev's buy changing the last letter... This is a different part with the last digit "a" changed to "b".

 

Couldn't find anyone local who had them in stock, luckily they are light enough it didn't cost much to 2 day delivery them from the Midwest. I'm at a stopping point until they arrive then I can continue with the front end.

 

Bushings just showed up. It's true the "a" and "b" on the end of the part number are different heights. (c5nn3179*). Just need to set time aside to get back to work on it. The weekend is coming up, hopefully will get time then.

 

Found some time this past weekend to get the front end of tractor back together. I made a mistake on one of the spindles and pressed it on upside down. I didn't notice it until I had flipped it right side up. One side had negative camber. It took a while for me to figure out what was wrong since I thought both spindles we're interchangeable. Then I noticed the cast numbers were opposite on each side. Here's a pic of the front clip as it is now.

All that blue sure is purdy.
I got a call from the machine shop today when I went for lunch and said engine was ready to pick up. I skipped lunch to pick it up. Finally got all my parts back and might be able to hear the engine run in the next week or so.

...and some other parts they worked for me.... All nice and clean to boot!!!

I have to get new tappets (lifters) for it, but at least it on my time schedule now. Does anyone have information on the break in proceedure once it is put back together and I am ready to start for the first time? I've searched the internet and haven't found anything for it.

 

I was just inventoring my parts and had forgot to order the lifters. I have them on order now!!! I'm excited to hear this baby purr for the first time!

 

Be sure to post some video!

 

On rebuilt engines I've had in the past, they add something to the oil like a lapping compound, that helps seat the rings and all. You usually drain that oil after X amount of time, not many hours like your typical oil. One engine I had rebuilt was really tight and used a lot of fuel at first and was really prone to over heating until it finally wore in. Things are really starting to come together for you there. Looking awesome!

Found some time this past weekend to get the front end of tractor back together. I made a mistake on one of the spindles and pressed it on upside down. I didn't notice it until I had flipped it right side up. One side had negative camber. It took a while for me to figure out what was wrong since I thought both spindles we're interchangeable. Then I noticed the cast numbers were opposite on each side. Here's a pic of the front clip as it is now. View attachment 47129 All that blue sure is purdy.
I got a call from the machine shop today when I went for lunch and said engine was ready to pick up. I skipped lunch to pick it up. Finally got all my parts back and might be able to hear the engine run in the next week or so.
View attachment 47133 ...and some other parts they worked for me.... All nice and clean to boot!!! View attachment 47135 I have to get new tappets (lifters) for it, but at least it on my time schedule now. Does anyone have information on the break in proceedure once it is put back together and I am ready to start for the first time? I've searched the internet and haven't found anything for it.

 

Found some time this weekend to start assembly of the engine. I got the Piston rings on the pistons.

Then began oiling and dropping in the flat tappets. The cam went in next. And then Murphy came out to play.... Sigh...
Main bearings are incorrect for this engine. One of the thrust bearings doesn't have an oil passage hole cut into it.

The vendor lists them as a direct replacement. Guess I'll be making a phone call in the morning to get it sorted out... Back to waiting for parts.

 

Did some research on the bearings. I went to manufacture website and the 192 and 201 use the same main bearings.

 

Well, finally got some work done on the tractor. Engine is together.

And mated back with the tractor. It wasn't too bad getting all the holes to line up. I had more of an issue with the gears lining up, but not a big deal. I had to rotate the engine a bit to have it slide into the transmission.

The front clip was fun lining up just because of the weight. But it too went right on.

I've been cleaning all those little parts that bolt back to the engine to make them pretty. Here's how it sits now. Might be able to fire it up in the next couple of days.

I'm starting to get my garage back with less parts laying around. Sure glad I labeled all the nut/bolts with ziplock bags.

 

I had to clean the inside of the intake and couldn't find a wire brush long enough for the drill. So made one from a copper wire brush plumbers use. Worked pretty good.

Just cut the hadle off of the one, drilled the center of some roundbar that was laying around and put a little tacj weld on it.

 

Has anyone else bought the replacement wiring harness made by sparex PN 61981? I got a generic wiring diagram with it and it doesn't trace out all the wires, which is somewhat confusing.

I also have a wiring schematic that shows a positive wire from +Batt to ignition, which doesn't translate to the manufacturers diagram.

Ohming the ignition wire (#1) out it goes to light switch (#1) with no other leads going to + side of Battery.Has anyone else had this issue?

 

I got the wiring sorted out. Just because the wires are color coded doesn't mean they are correct. I had to swap 2 of the wires on the regulator. +12v for batt and +12v that goes to "D" on regulator. Now priming the oil. I marked the gear that runs off the cam.

Then gave the engine a bump with starter. Shows the gear is going counter clockwise.

I then placed my 5/16 rod in the hole for the oil pump.

and found out there's not enough room to spin it with a drill when I put the oil filter and cover back on. So I did some research on how to prime an engine without the oil pump. There are 2 oil galley plugs down and to the right. It turns out these can be used to prime the engine with oil using a homemade hose connected to oil feed system. I'm going to try to get this done today. I might also look at a gauge for oil pressure. Having just a oil light feels risky to me.

 

Where the oil pump gear is there's a huge Allen which I didn't have.

So I used a bolt with a nut and wrench to tighten it down.

Also note the homemade oil priming system I came up with going through an oil galley hole. Using a drill pump I was able to charge the oil in the system then replace the plug. I got it to 20 psi with the drill. After 4 qts I added to rest of the oil in valve cover and turned the engine with the key. The oil pump took it to just under 40 psi. Next I'll be priming the fuel system. Also made an extension to the idiot light for a mechanical oil gauge by T'ing off the sending unit.

 

Always a good idea to set the valve lash on a new rebuild. Spec for the 201 diesel is .014-.016 intake and .017-.019 exhaust.

If the valve lash is not correct you can run into multiple problems like no compression, valves hitting the top of pistons, or bent push rods. Any type of ticking noise is not normal on a rebuild. I had that issue, a faint tick when I started turning the engine over. Luckily for me, I pulled the valve cover and found it before it fired. All 6 push rods bent due to the block being decked and the valve being set to the old worn out tollerances.

I'm now getting a nice "puh... puh.. puh" out the exhaust with no ticking noise. Going to finish priming the fuel system.
Crossing my fingers.

 

Woo hoo!!! I got I fired up and sounds great! Only ran it for a few seconds without coolant. I still need to hook up the hydraulic pump for the FEL and didn't want to run the hydraulic pump dry. I'll try to get the video posted on line when I get to a computer. Woo hoo!

 

Here's the video link

 

Just finished cleaning and painting the hood and accidentally painted the sticker on the inside.

I had a couple of questions about it.
Can anyone here decifer the numbers for me or know a website? Does anyone make replacement stickers? I cleaned it off so I could read it better. Word to the wise don't use a razorblade. You can cut your sticker, like I did in the top left corner.

 

Found a good website for decifering the numbers.

http://www.springfieldbiz.com/oaktree/codes_short2.html

Looks to be same as numbers behind the starter.

 

Hoping somebody can help me out with this, I don't remember which line is pressure on my steering Ram. Trying to figure out if it is the left or right that the pressure line hooks up to.