[PSJ]

Have you checked to see if the starter is jammed? I've had that happen before. PJ

 

[deerhide]

'Not a click', it's definitely electrical.

 

[dhoten]

Have you done ANY maintenance prior to this issue?

 

[rhino]

I have a question, when you turn the key to the on position do you have dash lights? If no look to see if there is a fuse link on the main wire to the starter. Kunitz has on that is looped wire. I don’t know if your tractor has one. But if I was there I would look for it by the starter.


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[NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN]

UPDATE: Changed the starter.

Have you done ANY maintenance prior to this issue?

All recommended maintenance has been done at the manufacturer's recommended timelines.

 

[NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN]

Ok. So I changed out the starter. So far I have this: Battery - 100%, starter - new reman, safety seat switch - check, fuses - checked. When I turn key - I get dash lights, the annoying safety beep. On the warmer days, I THINK I hear a slight "click" when I tried the key. On the colder (single digit) days, I don't even hear a click. I believe that I'm down to the following: either a bad (or frozen) ignition switch or the 50 amp starter fuse....I also took a picture of this connector - it doesn't look "right" to me, so I thought I'd ask for advice if this is the way it is supposed to look.

 

[marc_hanna]

Do you have a multimeter? Whenever I’m investigating a fault, that’s what I use. In the second pic the lead attached to the connector is red, and therefore is probably a single conductor positive lead.

If you can locate the starter solenoid, with key on, jump the two poles with a screwdriver and see if it cranks. Double check that 50amp fuse though first. You can test it with the multimeter, it’s not always easy to tell if they’re blown just by visible inspection.


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[NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN]

Do you have a multimeter? Whenever I’m investigating a fault, that’s what I use. In the second pic the lead attached to the connector is red, and therefore is probably a single conductor positive lead.

If you can locate the starter solenoid, with key on, jump the two poles with a screwdriver and see if it cranks. Double check that 50amp fuse though first. You can test it with the multimeter, it’s not always easy to tell if they’re blown just by visible inspection.


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I will try that next. Thank you!

 

[sixbales]

It appears that one pin is broken off in the male connector in the first picture. Are there two wires to each side of the connector?

 

[marc_hanna]

It appears that one pin is broken off in the male connector in the first picture. Are there two wires to each side of the connector?

That was my suspicion at first, but in the second pic it looks like there is just one red lead coming off it. It’s not uncommon for not all pins in a connector to be used, though it is a little strange in a two pin connector.

 

[sixbales]

Howdy NewCountryWoman, welcome to the tractor forum.

See attached safety system electrical diagram. This diagram is for a New Holland 2030 tractor and was posted by a guy named "Solo" on the TBN forum. This should be very close to your NH 2220's safety system. From this diagram we can see that you have the following safety switches:
1) Transmission neutral start safety switch.
2) Mid PTO safety switch.
3) Operator seat safety switch.
4) Main PTO safety start switch.
5) Parking brake safety switch.

I have read on the internet that all of these safety switches report to a Safety Control Module, which is quite expensive. I cannot find this on NH parts diagrams, but I have encountered this type of "black box" computer on a small Kubota that I have. Check with your New Holland dealership to learn if this safety control module exists on your tractor.

 

[sixbales]

See attached electrical equipment location diagram, and fuse location diagram. Note on the fuse diagram, there is a single 40 amp fuse separate from the fusebox.

 

[NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN]

does anyone have a picture of what the 40 amp fuse looks like? I see what the outer view of the 40 amp fuse looks like, but I guess I'm not 1000% sure what it would look like if it was bad. So....switching to another area....if the dash lights come on, then it WOULDN'T be the ignition switch? What about a relay? Anyone have a picture of what a relay looks like? I've learned alot since I moved to the country...but still learning the tractor parts...

 

[marc_hanna]

Fuses can look like any of the following:

If it’s burnt, you can usually see that the wavy piece of metal in the middle is broken. But not always. I double check them with my multimeter by setting it on ohms and setting it to the beep setting.

Your starter relay, or solenoid will be mounted to you starter and will look like this:

And on the started like this:

Other relays for wipers, and turn signals and what not typically look like this:

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[marc_hanna]

Here’s some pictures of burnt fuses:

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[NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN]

Here’s some pictures of burnt fuses:

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Thanks! I knew what the "normal" fuses look like....wasn't too sure if the other fuse going to the starter was a different configuration. Since we got another 2 inches of snow...I've GOTTA get this thing running!

 

[NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN]

I'm just curious....If the dash lights turn on with the "first" turn of the key (ie getting the glow light on to warm up), but doesn't turn over, doesn't even CLICK, then I'm looking for a fuse? Any other suggestions? I do know that I owe an answer on the terminal question I asked earlier. I'll go try those and send an update soon.....Thank you!

 

[marc_hanna]

No click tells me the solenoid is not operating. Now that can be for a number of reasons. 1) a burnt fuse 2) a safety switch 3) a bad solenoid - these are the most likely in my opinion. If your visual inspection turns up nothing, then I think you should try to rule out the solenoid first.


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[marc_hanna]

After you have ruled out any loose wires and tested the fuses, wiggled the seat in case the safety switch is sticking, double-checked that the PTO switch is off, etc, then we can check the solenoid. I would also double check again that the solenoid is not clicking when you turn the key - maybe get someone to stand with their ear close to it - it is a distinct audible mechanical click sound.

The solenoid can be ruled out quickly and easily, but some people are not comfortable with the following approach. Go through the typical procedure for starting up you tractor up until you’ve completed the glow plug cycle. Instead of then turning the key to crank it over, jump the terminals on the solenoid with a heavy duty screwdriver. Make sure you are not touching any metal with your hands, or you’re in for quite the jolt. If the tractor cranks, starts up, and continues to run, you have a bad solenoid - bad fuses, cooked or loose wires, and faulty safety switches will prevent at least one of those things from happening. In addition, if it does turn out to be a bad solenoid, you can continue to start and use the tractor in this fashion until you are able to get it repaired. Just be warned, you are at risk of electric shock and burns! You have the full cranking amps of the battery passing through the screwdriver. You will also observe sparks on initial contact and there will be burn marks on the screwdriver. The key is to make the connection as quick as possible, to minimize arching.

If that does not enable the tractor to run then we will have to investigate further.


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[NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN]

This sounds incredibly stupid, but when the starter was removed (I didn't remove it), and was put back on, there are a custer of black wires leading to a metal connector. I do not know where this gets connected. On the starter or on the tractor frame itself???