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Discussion Starter #1
OK, i am looking to get a new garage this spring..

I was looking at a 40 * 28 3 car.. but decided to go a little smaller.. to save money..
The cost of the 40 *28 is around 17800$

so ive decided 36 * 24 still 3 cars...

Im working with a place that builds the sides and then comes to my place and erects the garage.. they are way cheaper than all the contractors ive checked with.


For a 36 * 24 garage: with insulated doors and 5 windows the cost will be 14,880$ not too bad.



Now my questions/dilemma:

The standard garage pitch is 5 * 12. with the standard garage, they use ceiling trusses.. so there is basically no storage above the garage unless i put a few boards between the trusses.. but there is no way to add a room or upper level to the garage using the standard truss and 5 * 12 pitch.

The second option is to add Attic trusses.. and changing the pitch to 8 * 12. This on the outside looks much better, higher pitch.. lets the snow slide off.. Also this will allow a storage room above the garage.. 12' wide and the length of the garage..
The cost of this is an extra 4800$
or 3500 if i put the stairs and flooring down myself.

But for 3500$ i could actually go with the 40 * 28 garage..
If i wanted to add the Attic trusses to the 40 * 28 its around 5500$ Thats just too much money for me to spend.

so my options would be:



(A) 17800 for a 40 * 28 with a 5*12 pitch no storage above.

or

(B) 14800 for a 36 * 24 garage with a 5 * 12 pitch and no storage above


or

(C) 18200 for a 36 * 24 Garage with a 8 * 12 pitch and a potential room above the garage.. Room would be 12 * 36 worth of storage.



Im leaning towards (C) the 36 * 24 with the 8 * 12 pitch and future storage room


Added consideration:
Either way the garage is detached, so it would never really be used as an extra room or family room just a storage room..
We have 3 cars, and a boat and of course a tractor so all 3 bays would most likely be used...

Also ive always wanted to put one of those goofy Cupolas on there..


<img src=http://statuary-weathervane.com/media/cupola16c.jpg>

and in my opinion, a cupola looks best when its on a building with a good pitch to it..


So given the choice, what would you go for? the bigger garage w/no storage or the smaller garage with no storage but less $$$ or the smaller garage with future storage?


opinions welcome...
 

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C if you ask me its allways nice to have storage and 12' x36' is a lot of storage. IMO
Jody
 

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SJ
I would agree with "C" always leave future options open when possible. In years to come any money saved will long be forgotten and you'll always wish you had what you didn't get.
 

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Is pouring the slab included? If not, think about price difference of 864 sq ft vs 1120 sq ft. Also, consider if you EVER may consider it to be a guest house, stub in shower, toilet, sink now for minimal cost.
 

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Build It

BIG or BIGGER
" If you build it, It will fill"
That is from a baseball movie I think.
 

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Tractor Lover
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Another option you may have is a storage truss. I believe they are still available and a little cheaper. Ask your contractor about that. Go to your Home Depot and get a quote on those same size garages for material...then you'll have an idea as to what they are charging you to erect it.
 

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I could be wrong but that seems like a lot extra for the attic trusses. $5500!!!! Seems a lot for not that much more labor. But with what you are looking at, I would go with the bigger garage. Heck I built my 12x16 shed for a bit over a grand. Build one of those, and put the stuff you were going to stash upstairs there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
doug: slab is included what do you mean stub? you mean put pipes through the slab just in case? i was going to run some conduit for the elctrical.. thats a good idea. not sure what id need for water/toilets ect..


Paul: 5500 included the plywood flooring (around 1000) and the stairs (400$) 3445 for the attic truss setup..

slip: im not really interested in doing it myself.. This place does it in 3 or 4 days.. 1 to pour the slab, one to erect the walls and one to do the roof & shingle.. with me doing it it would take all summer..


Ill have to see how much the storage trusses are...


as for price, i checked with regular contractors they wanted 30-39000 for the 28*40 setup.. this place was much cheaper.. i am assuming becuase its all they do and they sort of work it like an assembly line. I went and looked at one they built last year.. it looked pretty good inside and out and the guy who had it built was very happy with them..


I may tell them to skip the windows.. save 135/window.. and i could put them in later


and if i skip the windows ill save about 800$ plus get to get a good excuse to get a sawsall

I like the 36*26 with the 8*12 pitch.. just wanted some confirmation..
 

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I would put the windows in. For that little money, and the work to add them later, just do it now. Trust me, you will thank me.
 

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Electrical conduit is good idea. I'd use 2" for 2 or 3 cables of 10ga romex.

Plumbing wise...3/4" cold line in (maybe 1") to feed sink, toilet, shower. 3" or 4" pvc sewer line ready for a closet flange. May want to run a 1.5" waste pipe from where the shower would be to the 3" pipe. And a vent stack. I'd guesstimate less than $50 in parts and some extra pour time to get them adjusted. To do after the fact....? $700 - $1000 with all the labor?

Lowe's or HD plumber people are sometimes real good about answering questions...you sketch out what want to do and they help you get the parts. Note, I say sometimes. LOL
 

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I like plan C as well but would go with the 40 x 28. I realize it will cost more but you will have a lot more space to work with and you will be surprised at how fast it will fill up.
 

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Here is my take. If I wanted to build it myself (I know you don't want to) I would buy two , 2 car garage kits. Build them end to end to make a four car garage. I know a guy that did this and it turned out great. He had enough lumber left over from the two exterior walls not used to section off a paint booth and small office inside the garage. he waited till the kits were on sale and got a great deal.

on the other hand, if I was going to have it built. I would look into a small pole building. maybe with a loft. one that looks good from the outside.

A word of advice: Don't go cheap if you plan in staying in your home long term and get a bigger garage than you need. Don't worry you will find stuff to fill it up.
 

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If you can do it without a lot of grief from the building inspectors, a floor drain in each bay is nice to have. They might require a grease trap though. Depends on your local building codes.
Attic space is always an excellant place to put the things you don't use but might need. Especially if you don't want to look at it until then. ;)

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks i will look into putting the drains/piping in... good idea to add that stuff just in case.

i agree Chief, i wanted the big 28*40 garage all along.. last year i had my driveway extended back and built up (350 tons of fill)
but when i measured the 28*40 plus 2-3 feet of border.. id have to get the excavator back in to add a bunch more fill..

Ive considered biting the bullet and just getting the big garage and the storage.. but its a little too much money to put out right now.. so i opted for the 36*26 ..

still, 36*26 is a decent garage size no? not as big as a 40*28 but still big...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
pouring my slab next week

well my garage is scheduled for the next few weeks.
i had to extend my driveway back another 15 feet.. translated into 300 more ton of fill added onto the already settled 300 yards of fill..

I am going with 38*26 garage.. and i wanted it far enough from the house so i needed the extra fill. The area where it is going onto is about 6'-8' deep of fill.

They were going to put the slab up this week.. but i want to compact the area 1st.. im sort of concerned because this time around.. the fill was only put down for about 1 month. The 1st 300 ton was allowed to settle for a year.. the new fill was dozered and packed but i think a compacter cant hurt..


i dont want the back half of the garage to drop into oblivion..


The place is going to pour the slab.. let it sit for a week then put up the already built sides/truss' ect.. they estimate it will be put up in 3-4 days not including the slab...
 

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I would think you need more of a roller type compactor like they use on the highways.

Whats the building departments take on footings in disturbed soil?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i dont think we have a building department.. the town hall consists of a few elderly (but nice) ladys and an inspector..


the excavator dozered it down pretty compact, and it was pouring out when he did it.. im hoping that will be enough.. that and the compactor.. the guy w/the compactor has a roller i can have them roll 1st...
 

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If your in a zoned community, then your building inspector comes from the county. If you don't have a permit on this building, you may be opening a Pandoras box if indeed their is a building dept.
 

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If I remember correctly the footprint on the trackhoe is not that much, even a bulldozer spreads the weight out across the length of both treads. I don't think would compact it as much as you would need for the slab. I would ask the contractor that question about compaction under the slab and make sure his plan won't settle. That would be bad! I think even the county has a building inspector and again the contractor would be responsible to make sure it gets the appropriate inspections. You might have to pull the permits but again the contractor should work that out with you. Here in Oklahoma in some of the citys you have to have a permit to have a storage shed put in!!!

I would ask the contractor those questions and make sure they do what they say! Send pictures once they get started, and leave that dang tractor of yours out of the picture!!!!!:D :D :D
 
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