[scwatkin7]

Hi there, im interested in buying a used tractor and need some advice on which direction to go in. I just moved into an old house sitting on 2 acres, half wooded, half grass. I'd like something smaller but still capable of running a 4' bushhog, able to lift sections of fallen trees, move dirt/stone for various projects, and perhaps some grading.

I was thinking something within the range 16-20 hp with 3pt and pto would be appropriate. Can anyone recommend something that may suit my needs? How about pricing? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Shaun

 

[Vigo]

I would say focus on size and not horespower as generally all hp equates to is the speed at which you can do PTO work. For example, my Kubota B6100 has 12hp at the pto and i can run a 4’ bush hog (have two of em, oddly enough). A 20hp tractor might be able to cruise through thick stuff a little faster, but that minor perk is way down the list of priorities considering that on 2 acres youre only going to cut thick stuff once for a few hours and then just maintain from there on. After the first time there will be basically no difference. Running a pto tiller might be more of a factor there.

Any SCUT (subcompact utility tractor) with 4wd and a loader will do what you want. 4wd because they’re so light they need to be in 4wd to pull grading attachments like angle blade or box blade very well. SCUT loaders can all pick up at least 900lbs from the ground, some up to 2000. To full height of ~6’ they can lift 500-1000lb.

I have a Kubota B6100 and B8200 with loaders, both would do what you want. I can certainly recommend those based on my own experience but in the wide world of all the SCUTs ever made i think we need to narrow it down a little more.. What’s the budget? Do you care about gear trans vs hst?

 

[scwatkin7]

Vigo, thanks for the reply. If you could, briefly, what are the pros and cons of hst vs gear driven and in your experience, what do you prefer?

I think hst would be alot smoother of a ride but I'm generally just looking for a low-maintenance work horse. Something between $4-6k which, including a bucket, I realize may be few and far between. The thing is however, there's no rush, I have time and can be patient for the right one to come along.

Thanks,
Sw

 

[aliaj00]

I own a kubota 2501 with manual gears for a year now. Did not do much of with it, but getting used to the gears was not a rocket science. The work that I did was moving downed trees, dirt and rocks from the French drain mostly. Said that, I still have nightmares from the big ass rock I managed to roll over with the kubota front loader. I guess I like manual gears as they are low maintenance usually and a bit more powerful. Others might add here, I am not an expert by any means.

I was on your position and ended up with the 2501 a club cadet xt1 and a groundhog 14g mini excavator that is basically an ht10 but a lot better. The best of the purchases so far was the mini excavator. I still would have done nothing without the front loader of the tractor to move the dirt that the mini moved and if I would have gotten the backhoe which I tired but did not work out I would have not been to do as much work around the house. So I guess I was lucky 🍀 the mini worked even in 1 feet snow and muddy ground and the kubota sinked in much less soaked ground. You will end with more machinery as time goes by. Just don’t rush, I did rush, but I got lucky when looking back at my steps.

 

[unsquidly]

I am going to disagree with anyone that says horse power does not matter...........I have never heard of anyone say that they wished that they had gotten a lower horse power tractor but plenty of the opposite.....Frame size and tractor weight are important depending on what you are going to do with it but, my opinion is, you always get a little bigger tractor then what you think you need.....Better to have more power and not use it then to have less and need more.....As for HST vs gear drive, I have both in late model tractors......My HST is a 2021 Kioti CK3510 and I love it....The other late model one that we have is a Massey Ferguson 26 series which is gear drive.......We have nothing but hills and hollars so the HST is better for someone that is not really great with the clutch and the HST seems to be easier for someone to start out on.....My advice is to get on the tractor house website and look at what is in your area in the 20 to 40 HP range that is 4wd with a FEL.....Also, not all of the compact and subcompact tractors have rear hydraulic remotes so if you are planning on using any implements that require hydraulic power watch out for this......Rear remotes can be added but that is more $ on top- of the tractor cost......I would also suggest that even if you are not going to buy new, go to whatever dealers you have close and look at them in person, set on them and see if you can start them up and drive them.......Most all of the major brands are close to the same level of quality anymore but all have a different feel and different set ups for the operator......You need to see what you like the best before you buy....Also, if the Mrs or and kids are going to be using this tractor, take them with you......I have learned that if a kid is comfortable using a tractor then they are way more likely to jump in and help you out.......This is coming from a dad with three girls and a step-son and step daughter that have all had to learn how to operate farm equipment......My step kids and my middle daughter, all are out of the house, live on the same road as me and they use my tractors all the time.....They love the HST one but not so much the 3 that are not HST.....LOL

 

[aliaj00]

I am going to disagree with anyone that says horse power does not matter...........I have never heard of anyone say that they wished that they had gotten a lower horse power tractor but plenty of the opposite.....Frame size and tractor weight are important depending on what you are going to do with it but, my opinion is, you always get a little bigger tractor then what you think you need.....Better to have more power and not use it then to have less and need more.....As for HST vs gear drive, I have both in late model tractors......My HST is a 2021 Kioti CK3510 and I love it....The other late model one that we have is a Massey Ferguson 26 series which is gear drive.......We have nothing but hills and hollars so the HST is better for someone that is not really great with the clutch and the HST seems to be easier for someone to start out on.....My advice is to get on the tractor house website and look at what is in your area in the 20 to 40 HP range that is 4wd with a FEL.....Also, not all of the compact and subcompact tractors have rear hydraulic remotes so if you are planning on using any implements that require hydraulic power watch out for this......Rear remotes can be added but that is more $ on top- of the tractor cost......I would also suggest that even if you are not going to buy new, go to whatever dealers you have close and look at them in person, set on them and see if you can start them up and drive them.......Most all of the major brands are close to the same level of quality anymore but all have a different feel and different set ups for the operator......You need to see what you like the best before you buy....Also, if the Mrs or and kids are going to be using this tractor, take them with you......I have learned that if a kid is comfortable using a tractor then they are way more likely to jump in and help you out.......This is coming from a dad with three girls and a step-son and step daughter that have all had to learn how to operate farm equipment......My step kids and my middle daughter, all are out of the house, live on the same road as me and they use my tractors all the time.....They love the HST one but not so much the 3 that are not HST.....LOL

True, I have learned/used manual transmissions car since I remember reaching for the pedals. In Europe 99% is manual so if you find a deal on an manual transmission that nobody wants/drives it might make sense economically. The kubota I got was cheaper then the hst and with better attachments. So I saved a couple of thousands dollars.

 

[pogobill]

True, I have learned/used manual transmissions car since I remember reaching for the pedals. In Europe 99% is manual so if you find a deal on an manual transmission that nobody wants/drives it might make sense economically. The kubota I got was cheaper then the hst and with better attachments. So I saved a couple of thousands dollars.

That may be true aliaj00, but after I spend some time operating my old Case with the clutch and separate levers for the boom and bucket control, I sure appreciate my Case hydro with the joystick control for the loader. LOL

 

[aliaj00]

That may be true aliaj00, but after I spend some time operating my old Case with the clutch and separate levers for the boom and bucket control, I sure appreciate my Case hydro with the joystick control for the loader. LOL

Well as everything there is the trade off. I found mine on the manual, as I am far from being a daily user of the tractor. 😅

 

[GaryL]

I think the main issue you will have is with your budget of $4-$6K. I had similar requirements when I bought my SCUT, Kubota BX2370. I think now my model is the BX2380 and it will do what you want it to but you won't touch one well used for the numbers you want to spend. I am a novice regarding tractors and the pricing of good used ones but for my needs of mowing, snow blowing and a rear blade the BX series works great and I love the hydro drive. I bought mine new with the three attachments, mid mower, front snow blower with the quick attach and the rear blade and I spent close to $18K with the soft cab enclosure and a second full set of wheels with turf tires. I had no need for the front loader bucket like you want but it was an available attachment. I mow about 5 acres and snow blow a blacktop driveway 20' wide by about 300' long. In an average winter here I see lots of snow storms between 6"- 36" and before buying the tractor I used a Honda Pioneer 700 UTV for plowing duty. I could write a book on how to destroy an ATV/UTV in just a couple years plowing snow. The tractor is a world of difference and perfect for the job. My neighbor mows a 20 acre field with a rear mounted brush hog but he has an older 8N tractor much better suited for his field.

 

[Busted Tractor]

Someone purchasing a new (to them) tractor and expecting as you have stated "a small tractor" and "lift sections of fallen trees) often bothers me.
1. a person on a tractor often assumes it can do bigger tasks than it really can.
2. New tractor owners are not aware of the abilities of and dangers of a tractor, especially one with a loader. "I can't see so I raise the loader so I can see" That is a dangerous thing to do. "Yeah I know the back end is light when I pick up the load but I can get along" until you can't.
3. Some older tractors aren't equipped with safety devices that keep operators safe.
4 Every body looking for a tractor wants a cheap tractor everything works well on it. Avery rare find.

To someone searching for a small, utility loader tractor I would recommend something on the order of a MF 135 or 35, Ford after 1952, or similar make of that size. Most available in diesel
Yes they are larger than a scut or cut, but they are probably safer, especially if equipped with a roll bar and seat belt. The wheel tread is wider and the wheel base is longer. They will have plenty of power and a stronger loader. Most are equipped with a LIVE PTO, Reasonably priced. Used parts a readily available. Cons: most are only two wheel drive. Need weight on the back to use the loader to full capacity.
PTO types:
1 Independent= Can start and stop no matter if tractor is moving or stopped, has its own independent clutch.
2 Live= Tractor is equipped with a two stage clutch. Clutch pedal 1/2 down stops forward motion, completely down stops PTO, 1/2 up PTO starts, whole up tractor forward motion goes. Some of these could also used a clutch on the differential, Older tractors like MH 44 and 33, and Farmall H and M.
3 Transmission driven = start and stop with the transmission. Tractor and implement start and stop at the same time. Avoid if possible. Needs overrunning clutch to be safe. Some early cuts had the overrunning clutch built in. Without an overrunning clutch a rotary mower will drive the tractor, You wanted to stop at the fence-----Nope you just went thru the fence.

 

[Happy Acres]

Hi there, im interested in buying a used tractor and need some advice on which direction to go in. I just moved into an old house sitting on 2 acres, half wooded, half grass. I'd like something smaller but still capable of running a 4' bushhog, able to lift sections of fallen trees, move dirt/stone for various projects, and perhaps some grading.

I was thinking something within the range 16-20 hp with 3pt and pto would be appropriate. Can anyone recommend something that may suit my needs? How about pricing? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Shaun

Stay away from off brands for parts...Kubota B8200, Ford 15XX, J.D. etc are good choices most have live PTO. A good source is a dealer talk to them about your needs?
They will try to sell you a new model go along with it? Remember your on a learning curve for information. They may even have a trade-in to sell? A good dealer will ask you what your needs are...Deere dealers are the best and most profession.
Watch the video from i.e Messick's Equipment. Good hunting....Do your self a favor get one with (FEL) front end loader!


Kubota BX Series VS. B Series - YouTube

 

[Nomadic Paladin]

Biggest difference between geared and HSt in my opinion is control, especially when hooking up implements. Being able to creep into position for the 3 point makes lining up easier IMO. Also less clutch work when using the loader.
Biggest advantage with a geared tractor is that you give up a little HP with the HST transmission.
I agree that I would put size above HP. The tractor needs to be stable where you are using it, and extra HP doesn't help the loader if the tractor isn't heavy enough. On the other hand, you can always not use HP if you have more than you need. If you don't have what you need, you can't use what you don't have.

For 2 acres, you probably would be fine with any size tractor, but I suggest you set the budget for the tractor and any implements you want and go from there. At that point, buy the most powerful tractor you can stay under budget with.

 

[oldmanfarmer]

There are a lot of good points there.

Basicly you have 2+/_ acres to take care of,
1. Mow,
2 options- belly mower or finish mower any other type of mower would not be.a viable option.
A. Belly mower needs a tractor with mid point pto and it operates just like a riding mower.
B. Finish mower is a 3 point attachments and a good used one 5 foot runs about 1k to 1.5k (woods). They operate different and you would need some practice.

2. Loader/bucket
They are great for everything, carrying groceries from car and compost.
You might consider getting a newer skidstwr bucket connection so you can use grapple to pickup branches and other klunky objects.

3. Carry all is great for palet carrying. Throw garbage cans on it and haul it to the curb.

4. A rear blade for scrapping and or a box blade if you have a gravel drive way.

5 a rear land scape rake.


There are a lot of things you can use a tractor for to make life easier but be careful and educate your self so your not taken advantage of.

I belive some of the new tractors that are over 25(?) Hp need some special expensive filter for epa diesel. You shouldn't anything over that anyways. But you also don't want to get the smallest one and over work it.

I have been there where you are so msg me with any questions if you want. Otherwise good luck and I hope the best for you.

Omf.