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Discussion Starter #1
It's all one unit. Just lift it and hang it on the 2 lateral pins, then install one lower 5/8" bolt(through the tow-hitch hole), connect the electrical cable, and it's ready for the implement.
I installed the switch in front and below the seat, and it turned out to be a good location for it. I made the bracket wide enough to accept the 2 switches for the Johnny Bucket Jr(just in case).
It has more than ample total vertical travel. The height -adjustment holes(used at full extension) makes it very handy for setting the depth of the implement.
The plow is set at 10", measured from the line of the floor of the trailor.
This actuator releases, and ratchets, at about 1,300 lbs of force. At full extension, and full retraction, it quickly releases and ratchets. You can hear it, which prompts you to get off the switch.
All of it works as good or better than anticipated.
The downforce capability is terrific. Don't leave home without it.

<img src=http://img53.photobucket.com/albums/v162/WillieNunez/Electric_Actuator_Test_001.jpg>

<img src=http://img53.photobucket.com/albums/v162/WillieNunez/Electric_Actuator_Test_003.jpg>

<img src=http://img53.photobucket.com/albums/v162/WillieNunez/Electric_Actuator_Test_004.jpg>

<img src=http://img53.photobucket.com/albums/v162/WillieNunez/Electric_Actuator_Test_005.jpg>

<img src=http://img53.photobucket.com/albums/v162/WillieNunez/Electric_Actuator_Test_008.jpg>
 

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Been watching this unfold...great job! Was thinking about doing the winch thing, in fact have already gotten a neat little winch, 1700# Warn from northern tool which I'll now use in another way. Maybe I'll build a little hoist set up to lift honey supers off of bee hives...my old back doesn't like to do much heavy lifting any more. Beside the point. This linear actuator: What is the part number, and how would I go about ordering it? I have the old style hitch, but believe I can make it work fairly easily. For that, do recall right off, the retracted and extended lengths?
 

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SWEET!!!:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Not knowing how they work, will it stop at any point in it's travel, or just full up, or down? I realy like the quick on, off, one bolt feacher.
 

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Good job Willie looks great :thumbsup:
Jody
 

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Originally posted by GT5000
Willie:

How much to build one for me?

Is this the same GT5000 who was misbehaving and asked to leave a few weeks back? Just wondering....why I ask? usually a "leopard doesn't change its spots"

Not trying to cause a flair up, but I wonder out loud just the same

Duc
 

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My basic question was directed towards Mr. Willie. It wasn't transcribed in order to garner an editorial from you. If you have a void to fill, why not check your tranny oil.
 

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willei Great job: does sears sell something like this or did you modify it to fill a void in their products?

What part did you make and what parts were from sears? If sears does not make them, just how much do you think it cost you to rig it up?


Could be a nice nitch product..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just came on, I'll start in reverse order:

John,
Sears sells a manual hitch and then an electric lift kit for it. First of all, the manual hitch has some design deficiencies, and having to buy both, if all you want is electric, is a dumb way to go. Also, the price of the electric kit is too high(for me) and they torqed me off by never telling me exactly what came in the expensive electric kit.....no parts diagram or anything.
I modified my manual hitch by cutting 7/8" off the ears where the upper mounting stud slots are located, and by raising the hinge-pin holes fpr the drawbar, and by cutting the lower link tabs. Then, I fabricated the brackets which are shown in white. I did a lot of research to find the perfect actuator for this application. It turns out it's the same one that comes in the Sears kit. The cost of the actuator with the switch, direct from the manufacturer, is $190. The cost of the mod material is about $37. My labor..........priceless.

GT5000,
I don't plan to go into the business. The market is too small, which prevents mass production. I made 2 sets of brackets and spacers when I made mine. I'll sell those for $110 plus UPS Ground(freight). You would have to hacksaw and drill your manual hitch plate, then weld the u-shaped lower bracket to the drawbar. The brackets are not painted, and the 4 mounting holes are not drilled, just center-punched. First come-first served.

Paul,
Yes, it'll stop at any position and it will hold that position. This feature, plus the downforce, makes it ideal for blade or bucket work.

RedGT,
Check out www.bearlinear.com
Talk to Jarred ext 55# or Cris ext 33#
Just ask for an e-mail of the spec sheet for their K-2 actuators. You make your own part number depending on the features you want. This one is a 4" stroke, 1,200 lb force, ratchet clutch, standard orientation, 20:1 ratio, 6 second speed(full stroke). Or, just ask for the same one Willie Nunez ordered. The price is $180 plus $10 for the rocker switch.

Others,
Thanks for the compliments. All I know is how to do things "neat", having built several show-quality street rods and one airplane.
 

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Looks cool to me! I would imagine you have a nice shop set-up as well. My problem is going from the idea phase to the make it happen phase!!!

Good work, thanks for the pictures! Let know how it works after a little use!:D
 

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Originally posted by GT5000
My basic question was directed towards Mr. Willie. It wasn't transcribed in order to garner an editorial from you. If you have a void to fill, why not check your tranny oil.

Apparently you are still the same person. I thought it was a fair enough question to ask, maybe it wasn't. You have the right not to answer of course, or to comment as you see fit...

Again it wasn't meant for you to get riled up over..

Duc
 

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I am not riled up. You tried to rile me up (i.e. that leopard comment) but failed. If you really want to rile someone up why not park your tractor in your bedroom and when your wife gets home tell her you made room in the garage for her dust mops.
 

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not to be a sour sport here guys.. but what do you think, could we keep Willies thread civil?

Its obvious from his photos and his setup that he put lots and lots of time & thought & effort into that setup of his..

its a shame to fill his thread with a posting arguments and baggering..


course you could always start a fresh thread for that.....
:furious:

just my 2 cents..


again willie.. looks slick let us know how it performs..
 

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I agree completely. Show some class and respect for Willie and his efforts here. You know he doesn't -HAVE- to share his invention complete with taking the time and effort to share pictures and follow-up commentary including Q&A. Respect the fact that he has produced something truly great and leave the bickering at home or bring it to the OT board. Duc, if you have issue with GT5000, send him a PM. This is not going to turn into one of those also-ran boards where half of the threads get sabotaged and ambushed by immature interpersonal assaults.

Bring it to the OT and let Tuba sort it out. :D
Andy
 

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I would like to further add that GT5000 has served out his time and I think we should ALL give him the benefit of the doubt and start with a CLEAN slate. As already stated, the off thread topic issues can be addressed with PM's.
 

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Since I never had a direct problem with GT5000, its not a personal thing with me. It just struck me as ironic and somewhat hypocritical that the original reason for his departure was the abusive nature of his posts to Willie directly, to the mods, the site directly and the members. Again it wasn't toward me directly so
I don't care. If it involved me directly, God forgives, Duc does not...

PM's are not needed or any new threads need to be started...it ends here and now...

Duc
 
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