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The front fascia of the tractor looks more like a D model along with the blue color. Maybe a D2244? Keep searching. ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
The front fascia of the tractor looks more like a D model along with the blue color. Maybe a D2244? Keep searching. ;)
Theres no blue on it, that might be the light in the shed. The grill is all black and the tractor hood and guards are an off-white/cream colour. Reading throught the history it mentions David Brown tractors. I remember the old David Brown we had 20+yrs ago (still in Australia), I think was the same colour. I expect its all fresh paint when they are imported, but under the hood is the same colour, so I think it's original colour, just repainted at some point. The logo is unusual, have you ever seen that logo?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Yay, I think its a D2350.
https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/003/6/9/3698-mitsubishi-d2350.html
also known as the Satoh/Kumiai ST2342
still reading!
Positive now. The logo on the grill is probably Kumiai logo. Will try and find a manual now.
The chassis serial number ID plate has been removed from my tractor (*eeek wtf!).
It should be here, but the plate on my tractor has been removed completely.
73989
 

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The spool valve is attached to the end of the draft control lever, what you are referring to with the 2 hoses is supposed to be the pressure relief valve according to another forum that we both came across.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I managed to find a manual, and instructions on how to check that valve. Will start pulling it apart today hopefully.
Manual for the D2450:

Bill sent me scans of a couple of pages to get me started.
 

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74010


I found this drawing just a little behind you, I was looking to see if there were any linkages attached to the cross shaft that would control the level settings for the 3 point and there is none, there has to be a linkage system that controls the height of the 3 point in associating with where the draft lever is set, my Kubota has an external rod that is attached to the top RH lift arm and then attaches to a shaft that goes through the transmission housing and works in conjunction with the draft control lever and the height setting of the draft lever.

you should be on your way with what Bill has given you, hope your problem is not major.
 

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View attachment 74010

I found this drawing just a little behind you, I was looking to see if there were any linkages attached to the cross shaft that would control the level settings for the 3 point and there is none, there has to be a linkage system that controls the height of the 3 point in associating with where the draft lever is set, my Kubota has an external rod that is attached to the top RH lift arm and then attaches to a shaft that goes through the transmission housing and works in conjunction with the draft control lever and the height setting of the draft lever.

you should be on your way with what Bill has given you, hope your problem is not major.
Yep, it was found here on this forum. :)

 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Thanks Fred, I'm hoping its the shaft "8" is stuck in "23" or "24". I will get to it today. Beautiful sunshine outside, perfect day to pull my tractor apart :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
That cover is very heavy! Everything looks in excellent condition, clean oil, plenty of it, and this is the part I was hoping to find a problem with. It also seems fine. I can depress the plate with my fingers, and the valve moves very freely. If it wasn't bolted into the housing it feels like it would freely drop out (as it should). Would there be any point in pulling this apart any further if it's moving freely. There's no sign of gunk at all, no roughness in movement. Is there any other problem possible that I can't see, and should take it apart anyway? Keeping in mind the hydraulics did stop once before - but once I put the pump, filter and oil back in, the hydraulics worked fine.
Anything else I can check under the cover? Linkages all look, feel ok, the only thing that seemed unusual is the large rod inside the piston was sitting loosely, not held into the piston at all. Does it self-right into centre of the piston by itself? Pics below, 1 with plate depressed with finger pressure, bottom one released, slides very freely.
74014

74015
 

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Now that you have the control valve out, I would go the next step and dismantle, check it all and fit new O rings, then you know the control valve is ok, the piston rod has a half ball end and the piston is usually tapered, so the rod will slide into the inside ok, are you going to check the piston seals while you have the top cover off?.

You are happy with the workings of the leveling links that fit between the cross shaft and the rock plate that the draft control lever fits to?.

If you have some vaseline on hand, use this to hold the O rings in place when assembling, the spools will have O rings, you can use the tran oil on these , and coat the spool and spool barrel with the oil also when assembling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I will dismantle the control valve as I keep thinking thats the most likely cause of the failure, hoping to find a chunk of gunk inside it that caused the problem. I have no idea what the rest should look like so i can only see there's no loose or broken/bent bits, and it all looks fine. I will think about the piston after tackling the control valve.
Thanks for your help. Ive ordered the manual from Bill, will be nice to study it on a rainy day, ready for the next breakdown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I'll get it apart today, got sidetracked yesterday. As I've only just identified my tractor I dont have any replacement O rings etc I'll be as careful as possible with the bits. Are there any suppliers in Australia for servicing these older Mitsubishi/Satoh tractors? That's todays job. I don't mind buying from the US at all, doesn't take too long to get here, but if there's an Australian distributor I need to get onto them :)
 

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One would expect we would have suppliers in Oz., I would ask the supplier from whom you purchased the tractor from for any supplier information for parts, then there is google, helpful at times and painful at other times.

Here in Townsville Nth. Qld. we have some bearing suppliers that supply O rings, and other parts as well as bearings, do you not have something like this in your area?.

And then there is ebay, you can buy a box of assorted O rings (Metric in your case) online, Repco, Autobarn and suppliers like this will sell O ring kits also.

A larger town or city in your area would have suppliers like this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Considering the seller sold it as a "2244" and the ID plate had been removed, and when I asked - there are no manuals available, unless you buy the "rights" to manuals "5 to 10k" lol. I'm on my own me thinks. So good to have finally identified it, have a manual on its way. I'm in no rush, and don't go near a city unless I have to, so I will look up servicing kits for the control valve and go from there. Will open up the control valve shortly, pull out the unloader, hoping I find gunk or a broken O ring. Fingers crossed.
 
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