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Matching plow to tractor

1695 Views 38 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  LouNY
Rather than buy a plow I plan to borrow one (single bottom). My goal is a family garden, maybe as large as 60' x 100'. I have two tractors, a 24 hp Branson with industrial tires (not weighted) and a JD 5075. Obviously, the JD won't even know the plow is behind it. I think the Branson would be the ideal size except it's about 1,000 pounds with industrial tires. I'm thinking it will "sit & spin".

So here's my question(s), if I hook it to the JD will the tires sit so far out (they are wide because I'm in the hills) that I can't drop the tires into the furrow without missing all kinds of ground? Not sure that makes sense....

Can I move the plow far enough to the side that I can get the tire in the furrow?

Will I just have to get the plow and find out? 😕

Thanks.
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Welcome to the forum Major T.

Your little tractor should be able to pull a one bottom plow. I would sprinkle the garden area well a couple of days before plowing to soften the ground. Ground that hasn't been plowed before can be pretty hard the first time you do it. If one wheel spins, brake it to make the other wheel help out. If your tractor has differential lock, use it.
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Thanks Harvey. I won't have to sprinkle the garden. We've had enough rain that Noah would be impressed. I'm waiting for it to dry out a bit.

My little tractor is a 4WD so I'll add a little weight to the FEL. I would think that would help as well. And for some reason, I guess lack of use, I always forget about the diff lock.

I'll give it a go. Thanks again.
A lot of this depends on what type and size of "one bottom plow" we're talking about.
I know my older Ford and Ferguson plows pretty well but other brands I don't.
They made one bottom plows in 12, 14 and 16 inch widths. All of them were adjustable for your track setting.
If you want to do a little plowing I would refer you to the Fedguson Plow Book. It will help you get your plow adjusted properly so you don't make a lumpy mess of things.
I plow several gardens for my cousins and neighbors and put in deer plots every spring.
It is one of the most enjoyable - and satisfying thungs I do with my tractors.
The link is a to a downloadable PDF file.
Happy plowing

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Thank you Ultradog. I've downloaded the pdf and will definitely take a look at it. I'll show my ignorance (I'm sure I already have :geek:) by saying I know nothing about the plow. A friend just said, "Sure, you can use my plow."

What I lack in wisdom I make up for with enthusiasm.
Thank you Ultradog. I've downloaded the pdf and will definitely take a look at it. I'll show my ignorance (I'm sure I already have :geek:) by saying I know nothing about the plow. A friend just said, "Sure, you can use my plow."

What I lack in wisdom I make up for with enthusiasm.
Hopefully your friend will also loan you a harrow to use after the plow… there is more to it than just turning soil with a plow. You will need to follow up with a disc or tiller. Plowing only, will leave you with a less desirable planting medium. B.
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Rather than buy a plow I plan to borrow one (single bottom). My goal is a family garden, maybe as large as 60' x 100'. I have two tractors, a 24 hp Branson with industrial tires (not weighted) and a JD 5075. Obviously, the JD won't even know the plow is behind it. I think the Branson would be the ideal size except it's about 1,000 pounds with industrial tires. I'm thinking it will "sit & spin".

So here's my question(s), if I hook it to the JD will the tires sit so far out (they are wide because I'm in the hills) that I can't drop the tires into the furrow without missing all kinds of ground? Not sure that makes sense....

Can I move the plow far enough to the side that I can get the tire in the furrow?

Will I just have to get the plow and find out? 😕

Thanks.
If a 13Hp YM1300 or a 15Hp YM1500 sub-compact Yanmar diesel can use a single bottom plow, I sure bet the 24Hp Branson sure can.

Look at these smaller SCUTs then. See them in action at the 6-1/2 min mark. Not a single one is 4WD either !
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Good point. I admit I'm in a bit of a sticky spot. My wife and I just moved onto fresh land, 50 acres of pasture, no electric, no water, etc. We sold most everything we had when we moved just so we wouldn't have to move it now here I am without a tiller as well as a plow.

We had a 50' x 90' garden before, which I plowed with a shovel then tilled. Regardless, life was good then and it's good now.

Thanks for your reply.
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If a 13Hp YM1300 or a 15Hp YM1500 sub-compact Yanmar diesel can use a single bottom plow, I sure bet the 24Hp Branson sure can.

Look at these smaller SCUTs then. See them in action at the 6-1/2 min mark. Not a single one is 4WD either !
Point taken. I was just thinking those non-ag tires weren't up to the task. I'm guessing now they are. :) I didn't really want to use the JD because I I don't think I could ever get the plow in alignment with it. I feel like I'm set now.

Thanks.
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Point taken. I was just thinking those non-ag tires weren't up to the task. I'm guessing now they are. :) I didn't really want to use the JD because I I don't think I could ever get the plow in alignment with it. I feel like I'm set now.

Thanks.
What model is the Branson?
What model is the Branson?
2400. It's a little work horse. I've been very impressed with it. Owned it since 2014. Initially had a tiller with it but got rid of it because of a move. Thought I wouldn't need it again. So much for that. :) Here I am now needing to break new ground and don't even have a hand tiller.
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2400. It's a little work horse. I've been very impressed with it. Owned it since 2014. Initially had a tiller with it but got rid of it because of a move. Thought I wouldn't need it again. So much for that. :) Here I am now needing to break new ground and don't even have a hand tiller.
2400. It's a little work horse. I've been very impressed with it. Owned it since 2014. Initially had a tiller with it but got rid of it because of a move. Thought I wouldn't need it again. So much for that. :) Here I am now needing to break new ground and don't even have a hand tiller.
I do feel your pain. I moved from TN and had to leave behind a finish mower and a set of forks because there was no more room anywhere on the moving trailers.
I do feel your pain. I moved from TN and had to leave behind a finish mower and a set of forks because there was no more room anywhere on the moving trailers.
Yep. Moving kinda stinks.
Forget the plow and great that you sold your tiller
If your land is sod put down some newspapers and cardboard. Dig a hole through to plant seed or transplant
Disturbing the soil destroys structure and soil life. It also makes a great seedbed for weeds.
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Your biggest prob is how to control the plow. There needs to be some communication between the tractor and plow in addition to providing draft power.
Your biggest prob is how to control the plow. There needs to be some communication between the tractor and plow in addition to providing draft power.
I'll ask a dumb question. Will the 3 point hitch and draft control not suffice? Am I missing something?
Most cut and scuts do not have draft control, usually only position. Well, what does that mean? Draft control is a built in system that regulates the working depth of a ground engaging implement, it also "adds" weight to the tractor wheels and helps with traction
. Position control moves the hitch according to how far you move the lever With position the operator or a gauge wheel controls the working depth of the implement.
As for the rear wheel setting. A plow usually has to be centered behind the tractor, if not the plow will attempt to steer the tractor either into or away from the furrow. If you purchase a plow you should get an operators manual with it. It will tell you the desired wheel spacing. That said of course there are differences, Usually a one bottom plow is off center and four, five and six bottom plows do not have a centered hitch. Some plows have a slight adjustment the plow can be moved left or right slightly. All this said the purpose to the wheel set width is that when the tractor tire is in the furrow the plow should be cutting the width of the plow (12,14, 16, or 18). Measured from the shin to the furrow wall. The end result should be even furrows with all land turned over.
Years ago on a demo I had a 205 Massey Ferguson (20 hp) 2 wd and a 16" one bottom plow. I wound up in high gear and was pulling the plow about eight inches deep. Actually it was too fast as it thru the dirt about two furrows over.
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I'll ask a dumb question. Will the 3 point hitch and draft control not suffice? Am I missing something?
Now that I think about it though, when I was a kid I plowed with a Gibson that(I think) only had draw pull. As I remember the plow just dropped down to a stop somehow built into the drawbar. The plow job was good enough for a garden because we worked the ground with a Spring Tooth and planted wheat in the field and it grew as a crop.

So I guess,, as long as you can pull it, you are good to go!

BTW, the pull center pt of the plow is usually 2-4 inches from the landside (depending on shear size).

--See Busted Tractor above for a good explanation

You also need to make sure you don't "Cut and Cover". That means a subsequent pass of the shear meets with the preceding pass.
I've read about the cut & cover. Seems very counterproductive to me. ;) I've had a few gardens as an adult and when I was a kid we always had a garden but never have I plowed one. We always just worked the ground with a tiller.

Our gardens were always productive. Maybe I should just get a tiller but for some reason I feel I need to plow this one first. Maybe I'm becoming more nostalgic as I get longer in the tooth. I'm also thinking I need a pair of overalls, something I haven't worn since I was 4....but that's probably a new thread. 😅
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