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Mahindra 1635 Blowing the ECU/PTO/Instrument panel fuse

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5.8K views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  CaptJon  
#1 ·
Hello all, my gear (shuttle) Mahindra 1635 with 110 hours on it has started blowing the 10 amp fuse that powers the ECU, the instrument panel and the PTO. First, that is a weird combination to put on one circuit. Second, why did Mahindra decide to split the fuse boxes into at least 3 different locations? (1 above battery, 1 behind radiator, one behind the instrument cluster; are there more hiding somewhere I haven't found yet?) It took me forever to locate the fuse box with the blown fuse. The manual was next to useless in locating it.

It blows the fuse a few seconds after engaging the PTO and beginning mowing, usually about 30 feet of mowing before it blows the fuse and shuts the whole tractor down.

Anyone have an idea of what to look at on this tractor? I am used to a short causing things to blow immediately rather than 30 seconds later. I don't see any obvious wire damage around. I drove it about 300 yards to get to the mowing area without issue, only to have it blow the fuse after a short time of mowing.

I'll be calling the dealer on Monday to see what they can do since it is still under warranty. If it was something easy, I would just fix it myself since getting it to my dealer is a bit of a pain.
 
#2 ·
Happy ending to the fuse saga. The PTO solenoid valve was drawing excessive current. Valve replaced under warranty and now it is mowing again. I have put about 25 hours on it since the part change and it is still going so far (knocking on wood while typing) The time delay was I had to acquire a trailer and fix all the wiring issues on my truck.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I have a 1635 with same issue. It's not on warranty though. I bought the solenoid 'part', which appears to be both the solenoid AND the spring-loaded/O-ring fitted valve; But I'm not sure whether both need to be replaced, or just the solenoid. I got the old solenoid off the tractor...but I've not been able to get the valve out, so I'm thinking about just screwing the new solenoid on, over the existing valve and seeing if that solves the issue. Has anyone had any experience with getting the valve part out of the housing after removing the solenoid? Here's an image of the solenoid/valve assembly:
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