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Discussion Starter #1
Guess what the delivery man dropped off? Very excited to have the DGT 6000 in the garage. I pushed it in so I could read over everything before getting started this coming weekend. In my reading on this board, the owners manual and watching the riveting Sears video I have quite a few questions to throw out to everyone. I appreciate your input - here goes:

1. I read snowmowers post on the misaligned pulley on the 54" deck and the sears fix with a spacer. I'll do a visual tonight - if it seems misaligned would you call Sears now or wait until after I mow to see if it chews the belt?

2. Electric clutch break in: in reading the OM it said if you replace the electric clutch to 'break in' your new one by engaging and disengaging the blades ten times at full throttle. Since the mower is new and the clutch is new should I go through that process to 'break in' the e-clutch?

3. This question kinda tied into #2 - the video suggested only engaging the deck and disengaging at 1/2 throttle to save the wear and tear on the belts. Assuming your clutch is 'broken in' is this a good practice to use or would it really matter?

4. I'm an old hot rodder and when we built engine we always broke in the cam shafts by running at high RPM upon first start up for 15 minutes. Then we idled down in steps and then shut down to drain the break in oil out. So with the new engine on the mower should I do any kind of 'break in' maybe running at full throttle for a period before mowing? Thoughts on engine break in ...

5. I also got the push bumper that swings down (won't be using and front implements - no snow ever in good ol Alabama) Instillation seems straight forward - any thoughts suggestions on the push bumper? Likes/dislikes?

6. I asked for it to be delivered unassembled, however, they said they had to assemble it since the delivery truck could not handle the crate. So I am going to go over all the initial assembly steps myself to be sure all was done correctly. Is there anything else I should look for that would not be mentioned in the assembly instructions?

7. Lucky question #7 - If it was your machine what would you want to do or like to do if you had it from day one? (I am thinking about an oil pressure Gage and/or oil cooler add as an example)

So am I normally this way .... Well my wife will tell you that I read all the owners manuals before using anything, she would have started it on the delivery truck and driven it off and began to mow : )

But in all seriousness for this kind of investment $ and since I haven't had a brand new tractor before I just want to take my time and make sure I do everything right from the beginning. My old lt4000 runs great and was very used when I got it so I know these tractors can take a beating. I have already taken care2 of the first scratch so that part is done.

Ok guys - Fire away! :stupid:

=Thanks for your help!

john
 

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I'd put the front bumper on just to protect the expensive hood and/or front grill.

The way you worded #4 seems to imply you don't run at full throttle while mowing? You should always run at full throttle while mowing to keep up the blade speed, get proper cooling of your engine and allow the hydro pump to operate at the correct speed. If I misunderstood you, ignor what I just said.

Things I would add if I could? Your idea of an oil pressure gage and an oil temp gage, baby moon huncaps, replace the front and rear light bulbs with brighter ones, install one of those goofy umbrellas over the seat if possible to protect my burnt bald head, and get and install the rear sleeve hitch for use with the zillion implements designed for it.
 

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2. Electric clutch break in: in reading the OM it said if you replace the electric clutch to 'break in' your new one by engaging and disengaging the blades ten times at full throttle. Since the mower is new and the clutch is new should I go through that process to 'break in' the e-clutch?


Congrats i know you will enjoy it:thumbsup: As for #2 i would break in the clutch just as a precautionary thing so you will know it broke in. The motor if the owners manual has anything about it do it the way they say to do it. And just make sure your deck is level and theres oil in the motor and if you got the Hydro bleed it as per the owners manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks - what about oil cooler?

Thanks for the input so far - like the idea of baby moons - but I know I'd have some serious competition with the chrome and style department. I'll look into a sleeve hitch when I pay off the tractor and as my needs grow beyond cutting and pullin' a trailer.

Q: Where would you source a oil pressure gage and oil temp unit?


Mowing at full throttle yes - it is just for the engage and disengage that you would go down to half throttle.

I did think about the addition of some driving lights to the brush guard. I think I would have more coverage and better aiming with some mounted there. When the days get short I can see mowing after sunset as a viable option.

Good point about bleeding the tranny - read that in the OM and in a past post. I'll definitely be sure to do that.

As for breaking in the engine - there is no mention of any kind of break in period or process in the owners manual. I think I may run it a full throttle for about 10 minutes then cycle down through the rpms pausing at different settings for another 10 minutes or so. I'll then cycle back up and engage the deck for the first time.
That would allow me to be ready to break in the e. clutch at that point. I'll probably change the oil & filter after the first 5 hours if not after the first mowing session which should be about 3 hours.

Has anyone installed an oil cooler? If so which one and how? Our summer months will get into the 100 degree range here soon. With heat index over 120.

Again - I appreciate the feedback
 

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Re: thanks - what about oil cooler?

Originally posted by klein444
Has anyone installed an oil cooler? If so which one and how? Our summer months will get into the 100 degree range here soon. With heat index over 120.

Again - I appreciate the feedback [/B]
Forgive me if I misunderstood, we only hit 95 here a couple of times per year, but, you know your machine doesn't care about the heat index unless you're going to cool it with water spray on the outside, don't you?
 

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I like the idea of an oil cooler...you'd probably have to mount an auxillary electric fan to blow through it with.

As far as the electric PTO goes...I never broke mine in and I have no problems..but I guess it can't hurt.

Definitely put the bumper on. I have the standard bumper and it has saved the hood and grille several times.

The OM suggests you always mow at maximum throttle so there is adequate air flowing across the engine for cooling purposes.
 

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Klein444…

I have a GT5000 so I’ll take a shot at your laundry list:

1) If the pulley looks like it’s a problem, I would call about it
before I used the deck. But don’t assume it’s a problem unless
it really looks like one.

2) I didn’t do the 10X break-in but it sounds like a good idea.

3) I always engage the clutch at about 1/2 throttle. It isn’t like
dumping the clutch. It’s got a softer engagement than that.

4) I did that. Even though there is not info about it in the manual
I hove some older Kohler and Wisconsin engine manuals that did
recommend a 1/2 hour break-in period at varying speeds.

5) Like Joe said, I would put the bumper on ASAP to protect the hood.

6) I think the tractors owners manual does a good job of going over
what you should do before you start. Go through each step in the
manual. Key’s: Add engine oil, make sure gas cap vent is clear, vent
hydro, set-up and level the deck, adjust tire air pressure.

7) I think you get an hour meter with the DGT6000. I wouldn’t cut
up the dash to add the oil pressure gauge. I probably would not add
an oil cooler either. Frequent oil changes and keeping the engine
cooling fins clean are the keys to long life. Now chrome Moon’s
that’s another matter, I don’t have them but I really like them.

I agree, these tractors represent a decent amount of $$ and reading the
manual cover to cover is something every new tractor owner should
do to protect their investment.

Have fun and enjoy it, you bought a great little tractor.
 

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Originally posted by Argee
I like the idea of an oil cooler...you'd probably have to mount an auxillary electric fan to blow through it with.

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Probably would not need a fan Randy. Just the cooler alone will drop temps quite a bit. A lot of the Kohlers came with a small oil cooler. Just mounts to the side of the motor, and is about...oh maybe 3"x3". Anything that gets a little oil out side the motor, will cool a little bit.[Most cars have a power steering cooler that is just a loop of line] In your temps, wile probably not NEEDED, would probably be a nice thing to have.
 

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I only mentioned getting the sleeve hitch, because it can be a bear getting one 4 or 5 years down the road when models have changed and you need it and Sears tells you "NLA... no longer available". I'm guessing the plain Jane hitch with no electric or other power assist is in the neighborhood of a $100. And I'm glad you figured out I ment hubcaps and not huncaps. If I could type AND spell, I'd be dangerous.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Couldn't ckeck back last night - thanks for feedback so far

Great feedback - thanks!

bontai joe - good pint about getting a sleeve hitch now. I'll hopefully have the tractor paid off very quickly. I'll look into one then.

aget5000 - appreciate you taking on the entire list. Good feedback on the break in. I also remember a past post where someone put a Kohler manual in the thread. I think it was on oil changes. I'll go pull that manual. I feel the need to do some type of break in before really getting on it.

balmoralboy - No problem on misunderstanding anyones posts - that is what I like most about this forum. Everyone is straight and provides useful information.
It does make sense that the tractor will be able to keep itself cool as designed - I'm just putting together a wish list for add ons and the oil cooler seemed like a good idea if I was going to add a pressure gage and oil temp unit.

Q: -Do you void the warranty by installing any of these items? (pressure gage, temp sender, oil cooler)?

And as for the bumper - peeled off the stickers last night and looked at the install instructions. Very straight forward.
What was nice was an insert dated 02/02/2004 for any GT tractor they included a set of non-self threading bolts. That way you don't have to ream out the mounting hole to a larger size (as you would have to do on any model other than a GT). Just take advantage of the existing threaded mount hole. So hey - I'll have two extra bolts to toss into the old trusty bolt tool box. After all you never know...
 

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Extra bolts? BONUS!:D
 

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Re: Couldn't ckeck back last night - thanks for feedback so far

Originally posted by klein444

balmoralboy - No problem on misunderstanding anyones posts - that is what I like most about this forum. Everyone is straight and provides useful information.
It does make sense that the tractor will be able to keep itself cool as designed - I'm just putting together a wish list for add ons and the oil cooler seemed like a good idea if I was going to add a pressure gage and oil temp unit.

Q: -Do you void the warranty by installing any of these items? (pressure gage, temp sender, oil cooler)?
As long as you're using ports provided by the manufacturer, and not drilling any new holes, there should be no problems on the warranty - I'd like to see them go to court and say the extra care you demonstrated by putting on the pressure gauge and temp gauge (and by monitoring them) would somehow hurt the machine.

Make sure you check the lines to make sure they're tight and not leaking when you're finished, bleed the air out (particularly on the temp line) and check the oil level and top up as needed before you start it up.

Gotta go
 

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Is engaging the PTO at 1/2 throttle something that's recommended in the owner's manual? My 22hp Gt makes no mention of this and I always engage it at full throttle. I've been doing it going on 5 years and never thought anything of it until I saw this. Seems to me it would strian the engine more but now I'm curious enough to try it. Maybe that's why the pulley on the deck split in two?
 

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sixchows i don't know about the Craftsman but the manual on my Cub says 3/4 throttle.
 

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Originally posted by jodyand
sixchows i don't know about the Craftsman but the manual on my Cub says 3/4 throttle.
My Husqvarna (not the Craftsman twins) mows at full throttle. When i drop the deck the rev's drop down to just above stall, then recover......... I'd think she would stall at half throttle. Of course, it's a belt drive on the deck, and hydro on the wheels, so that may have something to do with it.
 

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Originally posted by sixchows
Is engaging the PTO at 1/2 throttle something that's recommended in the owner's manual? My 22hp Gt makes no mention of this and I always engage it at full throttle. I've been doing it going on 5 years and never thought anything of it until I saw this. Seems to me it would strian the engine more but now I'm curious enough to try it. Maybe that's why the pulley on the deck split in two?
I can't readily locate the manual for my GT5000, but seem to recall it mentioning engaging PTO at a lower RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
video tells all ...

Engaging the deck and disengaging the deck at 1/2 throttle was mentioned in the video that Sears sent with the mower.

There is no mention of it in the owners manual. The only mention of engine speed in the owners manual when engaging the clutch is in the section covering the instillation of a replacement clutch that you should 'break' it in with ten consecutive engage disengage cycles "... to wear in clutch plate."

In the video (which is quite entertaining in a B movie kind of way) they say to engage and disengage at half throttle to save wear and tear on the belts. I see the value in the concept - the real question is does it really make a noticeable difference?

As for warranty issues with oils cooler and gage set - good point that Kohler would have a issue over what should be seen as preventative measures. I like the idea of metal plumbing and had read about bleeding air from the lines. Thanks for that reminder.
 

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The reason I asked was that after reading about here I went back through my manual and don't see it mentioned but mine is a few years older bought it in 2000 and it is 6 spd. But the way the PTO "kicks" in I'm not sure if 1/2 would be good but I'll try it next time and see if it wants to stall.
 
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