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Hello..

Long Time Reader, first time poster!

I have a JD L118 with the 42 inch snowblower, tire chains and rear suite-case weights ( 80lbs total).

I am having a terrible time with traction. I can not make it up my slope which isn't too steep? Any ideas? are there heavier weights? Any help would be appreciated. I am going to go to the dealer, but I am wondering what you folks have to say first.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
follow-up

Thanks.. Keweenaw4310.

I had never heard adding washer fluid to the tires.

I think i am going to try wheel weights, seem like the way to go.
 

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Weight is definately what you need. 80# seems like nothing compared to the weight of blower. The 2 stage 46" blower on my craftsman weighs 290#. I have 2-55# wheel weights on each rear wheel, and a sand canister with about 75-80# sand. I would think the added rear weight would need to equal or exceed the weight of the blower. Your body weight doesn't really count as much as actual weight added to the wheels/tires. The only downside to the washer fluid is the fact that it's poisonous.

Here's the weights on the back of my craftsman...
<img src=http://www.tractorforum.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&attachmentid=4666>
 

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I think he needs some more weight on the rear, but I'd be cautious about stacking up several hundred pounds on a L118. The rear axle isn't as robust as some of the examples shown. I'd recommend the wheel weights, for sure as they do not add to the weight carried by the axles. I'd also like to know if the chains have a cross link every fourth link or every other link?
 

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dnmst1_nh…

I also think you could use some more weight on the back.
Like Joe said, don’t go crazy with the suit case weights but
IMO you can safely add one more 40lb weight. You did not
list wheel weights so adding them will add another 100lbs
and adding the washer fluid should give you another 100lbs
That’s a total of 240 additional lbs over what you have now
and only 40 extra lbs on the axles. Also, as Joe suggested,
make sure you’re using 2 link chains (cross bars every 2 links
not every 4 links).


sixchows...
That GT looks wicked from the back.:devil:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone..

I have 2 link chains, but there is an open area of the tire that the chains do not cover. I have not used chains b4, so I am not sure if this normal or not. The chains I purchased did not come with instuctions, so maybe I have set them wrong. Also, another dumb quesiton, how tight should they be and is there a trick to getting them tight?

I think I am going to try the wheel weights next, seems like a good place to start.

To be honest, I have been less than impressed with my local John Deere dealer. They seemed bothered by "home owner" type questions. They originally sold me the wrong chains all together. Nobody is perfect, but the attitude of there staff is pretty crummy.

I appreciate everyones help and knowledge,

Dave
 

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You only need to get the chains tight enough that they stay put and don't move around or come off the tires. There will be some "wiggle" on them, and you will hear them clink as they go around the wheel while driving. When installing them, hook the inside hook first, then pull up as much slack as you can from the front. I find it easier to jack the rear of the tractor off the ground to install them, but different folks have different methods.
 

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Dave
Let some air out of the tires and make the chains as tight as possibble. Then reinflate the tires and the chains should be tight. When you look at the cross links at the sidewall of the tire the ends should face outward as to not dig into the tire. The area where the chains have the hooks will be a little wider on the tire tread than the rest of the 2 link spacing.
 

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And if there is a little play in the chains, you can bungee cords to tack up the slack.

I have WWF loaded tires on my DGT6000. Managed to get 6 jugs per side. Tell me that ain't heavy.:D

Good luck.
SnowMower
 

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Discussion Starter #11
hmm... more follow-up

just as an fyi. I decided to ask two different dealers about this.. the dealer x ( the dealer i purchased from) said they did not make wheel weights for the L118. Dealer Y, just the next closest dealer said ..

"Wheel weights are available for purchase in a kit, Part # BG10189. The price is 55.00 plus shipping. I think wheel weights may help your traction issues but I’m not sure if will completely solve it. Although John Deere offers a snowthrower for the L-Series Machine, "dealer Y" does not recommend the installation. We believe that the L-Series tractor is not designed to run a snowthrower. It cuts down the life of the machine, putting a lot more strain on components such as front spindles and on the bushings in the wheels. In the LX Series tractor, bushings are replaced with ball bearings and more rugged spindles that can take the abuse and weight of the front mounted snowthrower. "

I am pretty fired up right now.. but I am trying to get more information b4. Any ideas?

Sorry to pester the group, I am just trying to get more information....
 

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Dave, look at my avatar. That is a craftman LTX1000 (a small lawn tractor). It handled the blower just fine. Mind you, the bigger DGT6000 the blower is now on handles it MUCH better.

Are you gonna break your machine running a blower? Probably not.
Wishing you'd bought more tractor up front? I think we all are.:D

Good luck.

SnowMower
 

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Dave
Another thing to keep in mind about the blower is that for the most part it will be resting on the skid shoes while your tractor just pushes it. I don't think you'll bend a spindle or wear out any bushings by pushing it on the slippery surface of the snow that remains coating your sidewalk or driveway during or after blowing.

Since you bought the blower from the first dealer and asked for "free" advice from the second, maybe he was trying to scare you into trading up.

If you really think about his statement, it makes no sense! Of course if you use your tractor 12 months a year it will need more maintenance than if you only used it in the summer to mow. These parts he mentioned are probably cheap enough anyway, although I don't think you'll be over stressing anything.
 

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isnt 80 lbs of rear weights way to little? i have suitcase weights but 200 lbs not 80..

id always thought rear weights would offset the extra front end weight of the blower better than wheel weights..


just a thought
 

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DGT6000
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/bwiswell/Tractor/SnowBlow3.jpg">

I don't have any weight except the loaded tires and box/blade scraper + chains I have no problems on the new tractor.

LTX1000
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v216/bwiswell/Tractor/Snowmower2.jpg">

On the old tractor, I had loaded tires as well, with chains. And managed to stick about 40lbs of the back. I was hurting for traction on a few occasions, to the point where I would sit on the back of my seat to get up some inclines.

I feel your pain. I might suggest wheel weights AND windshield washer fluid. That kind of weight is not on your axels, just on your wheels. A lawn tractor is a very capable machine, but a lawn tractor by any other name is still just a lawn tractor.

Good luck.
SnowMower
 

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sj
Yeah weight out the back is important too. I also think that the weight after the rear axle yields more than the actual weight added. I know this is true on my truck anyway. Anything heavy to the rear of the axle has the effect of double the weight. Learned that on the old P-30 step-van when the floor and chassis started to break in half.:eek:mg:
 

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it's NOT the weight or the chains- it is the extra wide raer tires JD placed on the L118-- they are too wide and turf saver type-- you would be better off getting some ag tread tires -- if they would fit those fat rims -- rims from another brand that uses the same system of wheel mounting may work and be cheaper than JD rims--
 

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dnmst1_nh,
I still use the same 4 suitcase weights that I purchased for my GT262 which is closer to your tractor than the X485 I now use. This is 168 lbs of weights so I suggest you go this route if your tractor can use suitcase weights. I had the same belt driven 42" snowblower on my GT262 that I believe you are using on your tractor so I can vouch for this setup working. I had JD chains on it but they will chew up an asphalt driveway over time since I just had my repaved and am going to try blower without them this year.
 

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The suitcase weight bracket is sold separtely and is available at the JD dealer. I found this listed as a item sold separately on the JD website all you got to do is open the wallet and pay some more for the weight bracket and weights at the dealer :furious:

I think that it is a crime the dealer did not sell this orginally, Here is a link to the site that list the blower attachment and just read thru it and they even state it on the site.

http://www.deere.com/en_US/ProductC...chment?attNmbr=0422GX&prodNmbr=SKU20303&tM=HO
 

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My bad, I missed it when I orginally read the post :cry: :cry: . The other thing is I found rear wheel weights for $15.00 at Home Depot for the old Scotts Tractors (31 pounds each) The ones I found are missing the bolts but that can be easily replaced for low dollar amount and painted to match the wheels (I will have to drill the wheels for the bolts but that isn't major. Another idea is I also found a Brinly-Hardy heavy plastic trunk that fits my tractor at the same place for $10.00 and I can put up to a hundred pounds in it (the limit made by reccommendation of Brinly-Hardy) The only thing missing was the lid (so what a garbage bag tied around the upper lips and no snow inside) My tractor is a JD L-120
 
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